Bolts - Grease or Loctite?

[ToGGoT]

Hi guys. Picking up my project tomorrow (1985 BMW K100) which i intend to strip down to parts, clean, repaint, replace broken, and reassemble with my own tweaks.

I've done a lot of planning for this, and know pretty much exactly what the plan is, however, i was browsing around today and found an article about using copper grease on bolts...

Now, that seems a bit counter intuitive to me - i thought the point was to stop the bolts vibrating free - although i can see the benefit of them not being solid when it comes to remove them...

Am i supposed to grease them, or use loctite? Any help is appreciated!


ToGGoT

- Watch this space for the rebuild thread
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2005 BMW R1150R

[Finglonga]

Dry unless otherwise needed(calliper bolts, etc). Copper slip will stop them seizing up over time but if they need to be torqued then the torque wrench will give a false reading if they are lubed and you may strip them.
____________________
Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.

[ms51ves3]

I'd use Loctite as it will stop corrosion as well as stopping stuff vibrating loose.

I just got a 50ml bottle of Loctite 243 off eBay for £7.50. Should last me a few years.

[G]

Grease it's self won't stop them coming out, but will mean they are less likely to corrode in (I find loctite isn't quite as effective for this.)
Also tends to mean you can get away doing it up a bit tighter (though of course that kills kittens!).

I tend to grease most bolts I take out put back on bikes - definitely makes it less hassle when you come to take them out after having used it through winter.

[ZRX61]

[binge]

It's down to personal opinion I find.

If you have got a slightly corroded bolt thread, As you tighten it, you will get a false feeling from the torque of the bolt because it will be tightening up against the corroded surfaces.

If you clean / grease the bolt, it will screw in alot easier, And when it torques up, It will be torquing against its self.






Ben

[virus]

Grease on the shank, loctite on the threads.


Cheers
John
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own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

[DazHornet]

copper grease is good for spidles etc...

manufacturers will set guide lines to which bolts will need loctite.

copper grease: swinging arm spindle, rear wheel spindle, front wheel spindle, back of brake pads, etc...

multi-purpose grease: head bearings, etc..

loctite: disk bolts, foot rest hangers, exhaust bolts, etc... (when removing bolts which you think may have loctite on them, a quick blast with a heat gun will free the loctute so you dont snap bolts)

[ms51ves3]

[DazHornet]

ive had experiences where disk bolts have snapped on me when trying to take them out. always better to be safe than sorry. id rather put abit of heat into the bolt and then take it out no problems than the bolt snapping and having to drill and tap.

or worse buy a new wheel

[ms51ves3]

I few taps on the bolt is usually enough to shock the Loctite.

[G]

I've never had loctite cause that much problem - snapped bolts have been from more serious issues in my experience.

[ZRX61]

[ms51ves3]