HOW TO; Idiots Guide to fitting chain and sprockets.

[AngelGrinder]

This guide was written by me, for the daytona forums, but the principle applies for all bikes with similar chain and sprocket set-ups, so thought it might help others!

Obviously, if you have a different bike, the nut sizes etc will be different, but it should all be pretty similar in design!

.....Ok, I've never fitted or removed a chain or sprockets, and found this to be nice and easy to do, and just want to show everyone how easy it is!



You will need -



36mm socket (for front sprocket nut)

27mm socket (for rear axle nut)

8mm socket (for rear sprocket nuts)

Angle-grinder

Flat head screwdriver

Hammer

12mm and 13mm spanner (for chain adjuster bolts)

Molegrips (not sure if they are called this in other countrys, I will post a picture of them when needed)





Ok, so first off, you need to remove the sprocket cover -



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1910.jpg



Remove the one bolt from the top, and 2 from the bottom. Once these are out, you need to wrestle the cover out - it can be quite awkward, but the plastic is strong and flexible, so don't worry about being gentle!



Now, you can see the front sprocket, and behind it, the locking washer with a folded over edge. On this picture, it is on the bottom left hand side. Use a screwdriver/pliers to get this folded back out.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1912.jpg



Now, get a friend, and your 36mm socket. Get friend to stand on otherside of bike, pushing down on the front and rear brake to stop the bike moving. Make sure the bike is in neutral - you don't want to damage the final drive systems....I can't imagine any of that is cheap to fix!



Now, undo the nut on the sprocket. Not all the way, just loosen it off. (Note - You can do it with just yourself, I managed to tighten it myself. Sit on the bike, on the sidestand. With your right hand and leg on the brakes, use your other hand to use the wrench on the nut).



Ok, so now your front sprocket is ready to come off, put the bike up on the paddock stand.



You need to get the rear wheel out, first, back both chain adjusting bolts right back to the front. Now take off the 27mm nut, and remove the washer and adjuster block....



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1913.jpg



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1916.jpg



Unhook the chain from the rear sprocket, if your chain was as stretched as mine....this will be easy!



Now, gently with a hammer tap the end of the axle, it will start pushing it through to the right side. As it does so, start supporting the wheel. Remove wheel as it comes out, and the rear caliper will come free also, hook this over the swingarm for now.



Once you have the wheel out, slide the axle back through to support the chain and caliper while you change the sprocket.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1918.jpg



Now, you need to remove the 6 8mm bolts from the sprocket.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1919.jpg



And just pull the sprocket off. I took this opportunity to clean behind the sprocket on the wheel, and I also cleaned the chain runners and all around the front sprocket with de-greaser.



Put new sprocket on, and put the bolts back on. I used thread-locker on these for extra security.

https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1924.jpg



Now, to get the old chain off. Get out your angle-grinder and eye protection (I used an old helmet). Find the master link (it is gold and the pins will look hollow rather than a big metal rivit as the normal ones do).



Grind off the 2 hollow rivets.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1927.jpg



Now, get your screwdriver in between the rivets, and hammer it. Hard! Eventually it will come apart... Now, just pull it out of the bike.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1929.jpg



Now, take off the front sprocket, the washer sits behind the nut, but infront of the sprocket. Here is the order they sit in on the bike -



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1930.jpg



Now, put the rear wheel back in, using the reverse of fitting. Here is the new sprocket on, and a picture of the order the spacer, washer and axle nut go on. Don't do the nut up tight yet - you will need to adjust the chain when fitted.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1931.jpg



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1932.jpg





Now, fit the new front sprocket, again, don't do it up properly - you will want to take the bike off the stand and sit on the brakes to do it up properly.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1935.jpg



Now, get your new chain and run it round the sprockets to fit it on both. You may need to shorten the chain, do this by using the angle grinder and screwdriver trick, until you reach the right length. You want it so the links are touching, and the chain is a tight as it will go with the axel as far forward as it will go. BUT, if you cut off too many links, you will have to go and find another from a shop, so take it steady, and only take off if you are sure!



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1946.jpg



You can see where there is no link in this picture, it is at the back and to the top of the sprocket.



You now need to push the new master link from the bag your chain came in, from the back of the chain, so the rivets face the outside of the chain. Make sure you put the rubber x-rings or o-rings on as per the instructions with the chain.



Now, push the new gold link over the top of the link, and use the mole grips to clamp it on.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1950.jpg



Take your time with this. Just get gradually tighter and tighter, until the 2 rivets begin to show through. Keep going until you have 1 or 2 mm showing through.



Then, using something metal on the back of the chain to hit it against (I used a second hammer) hit the front rivet until it squashes. In this picture, the top rivet has been hit, the bottom is how it should look after being clamped on.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1952.jpg





Hammer both until they are flat, and you are happy there is no way it is going to come off.



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1957.jpg





Now, adjust the chain until is has the right amount of free play. and do the rear axle nut up to 110nm. Take the bike off the stand. Do the front sprocket nut up to 85nm, and fold he washer over with some pliers.





https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1959.jpg





And your done! Replace the front sprocket cover and you are good to go!



https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1962.jpg



Hope this helps, and can show how easy it is to do, even without a chain splitter and riveter tool! You may be able to use a dremel or drill to remove the old rivets, but I couldn't say if they work or not!



Have fun, and I hope I help someone to change their chain!
____________________
Currently Riding - 2002 Aprilia RSV1000 Mille

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Good write up.

You can also leave it in neutral and put a big bit of wood through your rear wheel to stop it turning if you don't have a friend(or your rear brake is shite). Note this will only work with cast wheels.

O, and I find rubber mallets are better than hammers for whacking the spindle out. Only cost a couple of quid from a pound shop.
____________________
My Flickr

[ms51ves3]

[G]

If you're not going to use the chain, I'd just grind it clean off, doesn't seem worth messing with bashing the pins through.

Not much in it, but I'll often get the rear wheel loose then take the chain off, can be a little easier.

First gear often offers enough torque to do them up to the reccomended settings.

If you've got an electric/air impact wrench, it makes the front sprocket a doddle. A whale brand chain riveter is ideal for solid rivets and splits chains nicely (you can then reuse the split chain easily, though getting the rivets back is probably not reccomended and can be a bit fiddly, though I've done it no problems.
Note that if you have a solid-ended rivet, a different technique needs to be used to peen it over. I don't like the idea of using a metal block, so I always use a proper tool or ride the bike (gently) to a local garage that has one. Can always use a split link to get to the garage if it bothers you.

[AngelGrinder]

Just a quick addition.

I took a picture of both chains lined up so you can see how much they stretch. The dark one is obviously the old one. The new one has an extra link on it when I took the picture, so have marked with a red line at 116 links, which is the same as the old one!

https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/angelgrinder187/DSCF1938-2.jpg
____________________
Currently Riding - 2002 Aprilia RSV1000 Mille

[don]

You may want to join the old and new chain together and pull the new chain round with the old if getting the new chain onto the front sprocket/over swing arm is fiddly.
____________________
cbr600

[TUG]

[don]

I ziptie the old chain onto the new rear sprocket./swinger,,,,if the old chain rolls off the front sprocket without the new one on it,I'm now man enough to walk away and have a cup of tea first,,,,,,,,

I used to never go back to it unless I had a full box of kittens ready,,,,,,,how times have changed,,,,,,,so far,,,,,
____________________
cbr600

[chris-red]

I just got one of those supersprox sprockets. Sexy aren't they not cheap mind.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Bishbash]

[AngelGrinder]