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Oil filters - a bit pricy - which do you use?

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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Oil filters - a bit pricy - which do you use? Reply with quote

Did an oil change on my WR250F yesterday, I was shocked at the price of the filter ...

It was £6.99 for a PATTERN (Vesrah) filter ... now my KLR GENUINE Kawasaki filter was ~£3.50 ... he said to me that the genuine Yamaha one was ~£14 Shocked

The Yam filter looks no different than the Kawasaki filter BTW (obviously different dimensions, but same 'idea' - paper filter, fairly small) ...

Anyhoo, what filters do you buy - yamaha owners in particular.

I am going to look up how much a genuine one really is (I'll be well p1ssed if it is <=£6.99) ... there are lots of filters available on eBay as a box of (3 or 4) ... but I don't want something cheap and plops, but if it is cheap and good/ok, then I'd much rather that.

I have had Vesrah brake pads before and they were plops ... I hope their overpriced filters are better than their pads!! Evil or Very Mad
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

on me XT I took 3 of those paper type ones they cost me £1.75 each at Halfords,

Course the XT is ancient technology that predates the dinosaurs but thats part of its charm.

I have two spares but since the XT was taken they are now useless.
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supZ
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i first saw this thread i thought 'what the hell filters are less than a tenner what on earth can he be moaning about?!'

seems you're just a tight git! Razz
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:
on me XT I took 3 of those paper type ones they cost me £1.75 each at Halfords,

Course the XT is ancient technology that predates the dinosaurs but thats part of its charm.

I have two spares but since the XT was taken they are now useless.


What filters are they? Are you sure you aren't thinking FUEL filter?!?! Thinking

supZ wrote:
when i first saw this thread i thought 'what the hell filters are less than a tenner what on earth can he be moaning about?!'

seems you're just a tight git! Razz


But the price bar has been set by the OE Kawasaki part. Bearing in mind the frequency of oil changes required on an offroad bike, £3.50 is MUCH more acceptable than £14*!! Razz

You can buy all metal re-usable 'mesh' filters - which at first I dismissed as 'meh, that won't catch the anything smaller than a brick will it!!' ... but having now read a detailed argument of paper v mesh, I am re-thinking that decision ... 'Scotts' seem the market leader ... just going to price one up!! Thumbs Up



*I have looked it up and the Yam ones really are £14ea Shocked
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Kawasaki filters do seem to be unusually cheap. Remember on the GPZ500 the OE filters from M&P were cheaper than the cheap pattern ones.

Most of the time I just use cheap filters. Buy a load at a time and keep a box full of spares.

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Kawasaki filters do seem to be unusually cheap. Remember on the GPZ500 the OE filters from M&P were cheaper than the cheap pattern ones.

Most of the time I just use cheap filters. Buy a load at a time and keep a box full of spares.

All the best

Keith


Indeed these work out at £2.45ea ... which is cool ..

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230392985475

... but not VFM if they let house bricks through and my engine grinds itself to bits!! Confused
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tatters
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are companies that make re-useable/washable oil filters from stainless steel, would,nt trust one though as with both oil and air paper filters are superior.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

tatters wrote:
There are companies that make re-useable/washable oil filters from stainless steel, would,nt trust one though as with both oil and air paper filters are superior.


That was my initial thoughts too ... but there is a rather valid argument that may make you re-consider ...

and I quote (found via google on thumpertalk.com):-

"Paper and mesh filters take a fundamentally different approach to filtering. Mesh filters filter down to a certain size, and for practical purposes, no smaller than that. They do, however, only require a single pass to filter to that level. They work by simply having a very strictly controlled mesh size, through which a spherical object larger than that size cannot pass. They are rated in "absolute" terms, as with the Scotts (35μm "absolute"). This rating tells you that nothing larger than 35μm (35 microns) will pass through it. (1 micron, or micrometer more correctly, is 1/1,000,000 of a meter, or 0.001 mm, or 0.000039")

Mesh filters are able to achieve this level of filtration with remarkably low resistance to fluid flow, as well, which in the case of the Scotts means that the bypass valve will not open on cold starts, and there will be no appreciable pressure loss across the filter.

"Paper" filters are different. They can stop even finer debris than mesh filters, but they also allow some larger debris to pass. They filter somewhat the same way a thick shrub catches objects thrown into it. Most tennis balls get stuck, but not all. An occasional golf ball gets caught, but an occasional soccer ball passes through to balance that out.

The random arrangement and density of the fibers in the element create odd and irregular gaps through which debris can pass. This creates little crotches of sorts that enable the filter to catch extremely small debris, but also creates gaps that allow it to pass ridiculously large material at other times. The paper element media is also three dimensional to a degree, whereas mesh is essentially two dimensional; if something passes through one opening in the mesh, it's through, which isn't necessarily the case with fiber media.

Fiber, or paper, filters can stop debris as fine as 20 microns, or even less. But, they won't stop it all on the first pass. Worse yet, they won't stop all of the debris even as large as 90 microns or more on the first pass, and some particles occasionally come free of the filter to re-enter the oil stream. They are usually considered multi-pass filters, which carries the expectation that the same debris will pass through the system multiple times before being intercepted. They will be given "Beta" ratings like "80/25", which tells you that it will stop 80% of all 25 micron particles on the first pass. However, they will rarely publish the fact that they may very well also test at 85/35 or 85/40, and certainly will not mention that they tested at only 95/60 (95% of 60 micron debris).

Additionally, paper filters resist oil flow, particularly when cold, a great deal more than does mesh, and cold starts often cause a paper filter to bypass. In the Scotts filter, a one inch square of the mesh media they use will flow 1.9 gallons of cold 90 weight oil per minute at only 1 psi pump pressure (70 degrees F). The YZ filter contains about 15 sq/in of mesh, which means that the media itself has the ability to flow over 28 GPM of cold 90 weight. The pump at the corner gas station is only about half that fast on a good day, and that figure is actually beyond the capabilities of the engine oil pump in any case. That basically means that unless you run half a shop rag through your engine, the Scotts filter will never bypass under any conceivable circumstance, and will filter at full capacity regardless of temperature. This is often not the case with "paper" filters, which commonly open the bypass valve during warmup operation.

So, it isn't a black and white, indisputable, one's better than the other kind of choice, but in my opinion, the 35 micron stainless mesh is the way to go, and Scotts makes the best example of that type of filter. Let me also point out that there is a huge difference between the medical grade stainless steel mesh used in Scotts filters and the OEM brass screen filters used in YZF's up until '03. The brass filters will filter no finer than 70-80 microns absolute, which is not nearly acceptable, IMO."


So in summery, paper filters will trap smaller particles than a metal mesh ... but they will also pass far larger particles too ... makes you think doesn't it Thinking

Further to this, my concern with 'cheap' paper filters is that presumably the makeup/fibres will be even more irregular ... so yes, in places it might trap 20micron particles, but in other places it might pass say 95micron particles ... the cheaper the 'paper', presumably the greater these places are in number?? so the probability of a >35 micron particle getting through (at least on first pass) is even greater than 'quality' paper filters .... at least the metal filter will NEVER pass more than a 35micron particle ...
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ben_wheely
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use HiFlo filters. £2.99 from www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk or you can buy packages of several from ebay - that works out cheaper.

Good filters too
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue

That quote is virtually the same as the blurb on the Scotts web site

As to the stainless filters, only doing you any good if you can clean them properly, and that when you do clean them you do not land up flushing dirt to the "clean" side of the filter mesh.

Edit - This site doesn't seem impressed with the stainless filters.

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

wheely wrote:
I use HiFlo filters. £2.99 from www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk or you can buy packages of several from ebay - that works out cheaper.

Good filters too


Cheers, but their postage is £5 .... on a £3 filter ... making it £8 a filter*!! Rolling Eyes




*admittedly if you were to buy 5, it would become £4/filter 10 £3.50/filter etc etc.
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silky666
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

wheely wrote:
I use HiFlo filters. £2.99 from www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk or you can buy packages of several from ebay - that works out cheaper.

Good filters too

+1 Thumbs Up I use Hi-Flo filters ... they retail in my local mx shop at £5.50p

Just spoken to him and the 99-02 model WR's use the more expensive metal filters (£5.50) Sad ... but 02 onwards uses the paper filter ... this is £3.99 Smile (all Hi-Flo, which are the ones he uses on his race bikes etc).
He did mention that because of the way the oil is pumped round (be it the routes or the pump itself, they do not recommend using the metal filter on the later bikes .. even if they do fit ... not that you would want to as they are more expensive:-) )

If you buy 10, then he will give 2 free.
So: for your bike it works out at £3.33p a filter. Thumbs Up
I'll pick you up a load if you want ... am down there once a week ish.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


A very interesting article that raises good points about particle size and engine manufacturing tolerances Thinking

Also about the trying to unclog a metal filter that has had particles 'pressed' into the holes at 60psi (oil pressure) .....

Also an enlighting bit of info on Hi-Flo and K&N:-

"I received an email from Suzuki of Victoria, informing me that a Hayabusa they took in for service showed no oil pressure. They found the cause was an aged anti-drainback valve on a Hi-Flo filter that would not open, thus cutting off all oil pressure to the entire engine. K&N filters are made by Hi-Flo, so these filters are also suspect. "
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

silky666 wrote:

If you buy 10, then he will give 2 free.
So: for your bike it works out at £3.33p a filter. Thumbs Up
I'll pick you up a load if you want ... am down there once a week ish.


thanks for the offer ... but if you look at my last post ... I am not convinced Hi-Flo (or K&N) are teh answer .... that said, I think the WR filters are pretty 'dumb' I didn't have much of a gander inside, but not sure there is anything fancy in there ... they are just the metal cylinder ends, with a rubber seal and the paper filter ...
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
silky666 wrote:

If you buy 10, then he will give 2 free.
So: for your bike it works out at £3.33p a filter. Thumbs Up
I'll pick you up a load if you want ... am down there once a week ish.


thanks for the offer ... but if you look at my last post ... I am not convinced Hi-Flo (or K&N) are teh answer .... that said, I think the WR filters are pretty 'dumb' I didn't have much of a gander inside, but not sure there is anything fancy in there ... they are just the metal cylinder ends, with a rubber seal and the paper filter ...



is your bike a race bike or something? to use 12 filters on an XT would equate to 72000 miles!
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silky666
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:

Also an enlighting bit of info on Hi-Flo and K&N:-

"I received an email from Suzuki of Victoria, informing me that a Hayabusa they took in for service showed no oil pressure. They found the cause was an aged anti-drainback valve on a Hi-Flo filter that would not open, thus cutting off all oil pressure to the entire engine. K&N filters are made by Hi-Flo, so these filters are also suspect. "

I think the key word there is AGED.
The WR is a competition bike and the filter and oil should be changed reguarly (every 3 rides ?) ... and certainly before any part (of what is a pretty basic item) becomes aged etc ... its a cheap and easy thing to do.
I cannot imagine that the race teams would use them, in place of the Yamaha one, if they are suspect.
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silky666
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:

is your bike a race bike or something? !

Yes .. his bike is a competition / race bike.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Does the WR even have an anti drain back valve built into the filter?

I would be very surprised if the anti drain back valve could stick sufficiently well to block 60psi of oil pushing it open. What would sound more plausable is that the flap of the valve has managed to come adrift. Which would be worrying.

That said loads of the filters I have used have been HiFlo brand ones.

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:

is your bike a race bike or something? to use 12 filters on an XT would equate to 72000 miles!


It is an offorad bike, its not a very nice environment for an engine to be honest. Not only does the engine have to work quite hard at times, but there is such massive changes in engine temperatures*, the oil really does get a workout!! Sad I intend to change the oil and filter every 300-400 miles.

*going along the road at what 50 mph? then going very slowly through some sand, then dowsing the whole she-bang in a f-off puddle ... or even at times, the engine/oil can never reach a decent working temperature all ride as there is so much perpetual water spray and dowsing going on .. there is also lots of starting/stopping .. waiting etc ... it really is horrible way to treat and engine Crying or Very sad

silky666 wrote:

I think the key word there is AGED.
The WR is a competition bike and the filter and oil should be changed reguarly (every 3 rides ?) ... and certainly before any part (of what is a pretty basic item) becomes aged etc ... its a cheap and easy thing to do.
I cannot imagine that the race teams would use them, in place of the Yamaha one, if they are suspect.


Like I said, not sure our filters even have the valves one ...

EDIT: Just looked at the old filter, there IS a spring in there, this is presumably for the relief valve???

Let me do a bit more googling on Hi-Flo to try and establish the manufactures specifications ...
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silky666
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good page on oil filters and answers quite a few questions posted in this thread:
https://www.thumperfaq.com/oil_filter.htm

The site itself is a good one overall .. some nice articles and writeups etc ... everything from carb accelerator pump tuning to valve adjustment.
definitely worth sticking in your faves Blue.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
Like I said, not sure our filters even have the valves one ...

EDIT: Just looked at the old filter, there IS a spring in there, this is presumably for the relief valve???


Anti drain back vale is not the same as a relief valve. The anti drain back valve is there to prevent the contents of the oil system draining back to the sump when the oil pump isn't turning. Some filters need them and some don't as some engines have such a valve built into the system instead of relying on one in the filter.

All the best

Keith
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silky666
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

Anti drain back vale is not the same as a relief valve. The anti drain back valve is there to prevent the contents of the oil system draining back to the sump when the oil pump isn't turning. Some filters need them and some don't as some engines have such a valve built into the system instead of relying on one in the filter.

All the best

Keith

As per the website:
Oil filters don't just filter particulates out of oil, they also have a pop-off valve. What does the pop-of valve do? If the filter becomes plugged with debris, to the extent that no oil will flow through it, the engine will blow up. The pop-off valve insures that oil keeps flowing to the vital parts. It is a safety valve that allows oil to bypass a clogged filter when the oil pressure goes up. Filters don't need a pop-off valve if the manufacturer designed one into the engine case. It is basically a ball and spring affair.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 25 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:

But the price bar has been set by the OE Kawasaki part.


I think Kawasaki just generally seem to price their spares quite cheaply. No idea why, but if you're ever going to crash a bike it's certainly best to be a Kawasaki. Laughing
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