SERIOUSLY??? (GSX250 Rebuild)

[xXshadowXx]

What the f*&$. I'm here trying to rebuild my 1983 GSX250 right. I undo the exhaust downpipes from the front of the engine, and EVERY SINGLE BOLT shears off as I'm undoing them. I now have the thread of 4 bolts in the front of my cylinder block, and, if that isn't bad enough, the exact same thing occured to 2 adjacent bolts while I was removing the top end, which probably means I won't be able to get a good seal around the camshafts and as a result won't fix the oil leak I was there to fix in the first place.

I don't know how to remove the threads. Please help!

Also while I'm at it, how on earth do I get the old gaskets off without spending 5 days doing it or ruining the machined surfaces? And how big a job is splitting the crankcase? I'm fairly sure a large amount of old dirt from around the studs got in down the cam chain tunnel... One more question: I replaced the gaskets around the sump plate and the side with the generator a couple of days ago from a full gasket set I bought. If I do end up splitting the crankcase, these will have to come off again. As I only just put them on, will they be right or will I have to grab new ones? Kinda wanna avoid it since I ordered them from the UK and don't want to pay $280 AU for suzuki ones.

Thanks guys

[Damon]

Spray penetrating oil (wd40 etc) on all your bolts before attempting to undo. let them soak for a couple of hours.

Use a sharp razor blade and take your time.

and yes, you are quite likely to break them when you take them off.

[chris-red]

What did you expect it is a Suzuki, even now the fixings are made of rusty toilet paper and cheese..
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[unitybiker]

dont worry the thread bolts usually screw out after a good soaking .You could use two nuts locked togeter on one bolt and carryon undoing them ,or a mole grip can help .in the worst case if the entire bolt has come off and there's nothing to grip they can be drilled and re threaded with oversize bolts .Soaking is the best option,be patient.the bolts stick because of the ally threads,steel and ally equals corrosion .You will notice this when you inspect the bike .when rebuilding a bike I always add a thick extra earth cable to as near the genny as posssible ,this helps reduce electrolytic corrosion on the engine holding bolts .Like many cars /motorcycles use the engine/frame as an earth wire which results in corrosion .

[temeluchus]

take aphoto of the offending studs.
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[unitybiker]

The new gaskets you fitted should come off ok if your carefull and be reused.With the old gaskets it best to use a blunt blade held at a 60 degree angle and carefully push and scrape under and along the gasket trying to remove most of it in one peice ,like peeling an orange.Make sure the tiny bits of old gasket dont block any casing oilways and get the scappy bits off your workbench as quickas poss. you can carefully use wire wool to polish the case seal surfaces but watch for debris.Clean cases with parrafin and when reassembling cases together take your time an ensure no bowed or mishapen folding of gasket and locating pegs in place.. If you don't do it properly you will immediatley have oil leaks and will have to do it all again
you could save a lot of time and trouble by scrubbing the engine down or wirebrushing it to clean it before dismantling.When the engines back together a small cleanover means it's ready for laquering .The big advantage of cleaning it first is that you get less crap on your hands and there less risk of letting road grime in the cases,scrub everything inside with clean parrafin.

[stinkwheel]

You re-affirm everything I've said about why I will never buy a Suzuki.

BUT. You have the top end off? Really handy.

Take the cylinder head to an engineering firm and get them to drill them out and fit helicoils if necessary. Sheared exhaust studs are only a major pain in the arse if you don't want to take the head off/engine out.

With the head off, it can be clamped in a pillar drill/milling machine and the sheared off stumps drilled out with relative ease.
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[xXshadowXx]

thanks guys

Have teed up with the mechanic on the corner for him to use his stud remover thing on my busted bolts, so we'll see how that goes.

I'm trying to use a razor on the gaskets but far out it takes forever, and I keep not being able to get the last bit without scraping metal off the seal :/

[Stelmer]

I've got the same problem with my bike and someone in the past did some extreme bodges. There's stuff that needs doing but I dareden't touch the bolts!!!!!

Rocker cover was glued on, Oil filter cover was glued on, downpipes have bog standard bolts in them, which are too long. There's a nut on them which tightens to the downpipes.

2 are rounded off and need helicoiling. I also had to replace the engine internals which the rocker cover bolts to. I should've done the valve clearances here as I daredn't remove the cover as it took ages to get it oil tight.

I still need to get the oil filter cover stud bolts out and replace them, somehow.

Whilst i'm good with electrics, i'm still learning difficult engine repairs on my own. I'm not even going to attempt to fix the more pressing issues till I know what i'm doing with the timing and other delicate parts.

[unitybiker]

try using a butterknife or a 5-6inch blunted locknife/penknife ,wire wool will remove the last bits of liquorice of the seals without scratching as well as flatten out any scratches.


if there's some sort of exit(drain plug?) you could flush petrol or parrafin down the centre case ,dont be stingy with it just give it a tiny swill then get a little flow going and the road shit should be carried out , repeat a few times and then the parrafin can be left to settle/drained off and reused

[xXshadowXx]

LOL i got the studs off the top of the head by clamping the stud in a vice and turning the actual head.... it worked too, and I didn't scratch the machined surface.

It sounds funny with no downpipes/muffler... Guess I'll have to put them on.

[xXshadowXx]

New problem -- When I start the motor it pisses out oil at an alarming rate from around the oil filter cover :/

God dammit.

[unitybiker]

could be a seal or warped cover or gasket problem. Give it all a wipe and start it up and check the exact location of the leak .check the head barrel seam for drips as well.

[xXshadowXx]

Found a tiny spot in the rubber seal where it had been pinched and was compressed enough to make a small passageway for oil to pass through. Replaced it and it doesn't leak at all

My first successful engine rebuild!