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Dyno print out

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c-m
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Joined: 12 May 2006
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 03 Dec 2009    Post subject: Dyno print out Reply with quote

I have a ZX9R 1999 model with about 27k on the clock.

The bike is totally standard apart from a carbon can company end can.

I love the bike and it rides well, but there is something not quite rigtht. What can you tell by this print out?

https://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5573/25022007055.jpg
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c-m
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

does this look ok?

I'm finding that bike is really bogged down around the 3rpm mark and the power starts coming in all of a sudden. Not great for the winter.

How do i adjust the carbs to fix that?
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Billing
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

when was it last serviced? if it hasn't been serviced for ages then it won't help the running.

other than that i don't know what to suggest :S
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Nothing obvious and certain, but there is a drop in the power at ~35mph (which could well be the 3k mark), but that is close to the start of the run and might not really be meaningful. However looking at the mixture it appears to start of VERY leak and then go pretty rich to start with before returning towards normal. That 12:1 is a bit rich, probably a bit too rich.

My GUESS would be that the slides are opening too far when the throttle is whacked open, then returning to a better position. Almost like their movement isn't damped enough. Possibly playing with the springs and the size of the holes in the slides would help this (ie, basic Dynojet kit fiddling), but probably best to have a word with a bod who is good at setting up engines on a dyno.

All the best

Keith
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Re: Dyno print out Reply with quote

On my zx9, it's quite noticeable that it works better pulling on the power as the revs increase from low down, rather than going straight to wide-open-throttle. This is more obvious in higher gears, where on a 600 it would definitely have serious problems, but mine (which is downgeared and tuned to some degree) you can get away with more.
Mine isn't great from low revs, but on the dyno graph I've got, it's quite obvious the fueling is off there.
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c-m
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any guestimate how much i'm looking at to take the bike to someone and have them smooth out the rev range and optimise fueling?
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woodyfjr
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Joined: 25 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 07 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you do anything with the carbs sort out the valves and give it a good service first.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a high reving sports bike sports bike must redline at what 14k? They don't usually work below 4k. I thought that was fairly standard on 600 sports. I don't exactly think there is a problem. If you want something that doesn't bring the power on quickly buy a cb500.


That dyno graph I assume is top gear(maybe 5th) roll on, If you are sitting at idle in top gear(or 5th) and crack the throtle there is gonna be some lag.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 10:23 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

It is a ZX9R not a 6R. Think the red line is at 11~12k.

All the best

Keith
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 10:31 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty sure it's 12k (haven't had the clocks on mine for a while).
In low gears it provides 'brisk' acceleration up to 4k, then altitude control above that, but as said, mine is downgeared a reasonable chunk, etc.
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c-m
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

its things like pulling away from the lights thats a problem. It will start to go nicely but between 2.5-3.5rpm is will splutter and jerk and barely move, then all of a sudden a rush of power comes in. If i'm not careful this can easily spin up the rear in the cold damp conditions.

The valves and carbs were done just 3,000 miles ago, they're not due again for another 4-5k
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:18 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

My FZ750 used to be like that when it had a Micron exhaust. Well known problem with Microns on them (and solved when I put a Laser pipe on it), and on those was difficult to avoid just by playing with the jetting. Don't know on the ZX9R though. The FZs do suffer from worn atomiser tubes screwing up the mixture as well, which I thinkthe ZX9Rs suffer from as well.

It was a total pain when trying to get onto a roundabout at a normal pace in the wet. Clutch out, not much happening, naturally putting more throttle on, and then suddenly then engine wakes up.

A decent dyno shop should be able to advise you but not sure where any are over your way.

All the best

Keith
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 08 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
It's a high reving sports bike sports bike must redline at what 14k? They don't usually work below 4k. I thought that was fairly standard on 600 sports. I don't exactly think there is a problem. If you want something that doesn't bring the power on quickly buy a cb500.


That dyno graph I assume is top gear(maybe 5th) roll on, If you are sitting at idle in top gear(or 5th) and crack the throtle there is gonna be some lag.


Sorry i disagree!
The 9R is a torquey smooth as silk motor with fueling that could put many early noughties EFI bikes to shame! The issue with this one is probably due to the aftermarket can, and the fact that some re-jetting is required. I think most 9R's had a cat in the stock can, and obviously as well as the normal leaning out you can get with a race can, the fueling required to keep a cat happy is not the same as you would ideally want for ultimate throttle response and performance throughout the rev and load range.

My ZX6R was really smooth and carburated really well too! It makes CBR's feel peaky and gutless! I had not a glitch or hiccup only smooth progressive drive from 2000rpm to wherever you changed gear.

The only thing the J-series 6R's did worse than a CBR6 IMO, is vibrate at 7-8k, and be a bugger to start when hot.
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c-m
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 09 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only E and F models had a cat and produced less power than the C models.

I am using the original 4 into 1 exhaust. The common opinion is that just a change of end can should not require a rejet. However common opinion is also that the carbs on the ZX9R were particularly sensitive (fickle) about changes.
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woodyfjr
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 10 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look at the diaphams you may have a small hole which would cause poor fueling.
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