Fork Pitting.

[johnsmith222]

Hi.

I am spending a lot of time working on the CG to try and get it into a good condition. I'm stripping everything and cleaning it up. I don't have a lot of money to spend on the CG though tbh and my forks are pitted. I can't afford to get them rechromed etc.

What I am looking for is a temporary fix to fill in the pits and smooth them off. The pitting is so bad that the seals get damaged and start leaking oil so bad that it'd fail an MOT.

This is the worse out of the two forks. I don't think it looks too bad.

I have heard that you can fill pitting with araldite so that it no longer damages the fork seals. Do you recommend this or should I use something else?

What would I go rubbing any excess araldite off with so that it sits flush and smooth with the fork?

I would like my seals to last at least a month's riding. Tbh, I couldn't care less if they do start leaking as long as I can get my MOT. But it would be nice to do a good enough job so that the seals hold.

The bike rides exactly the same with fine seals and knackered seals.

I tried to show the worst part in the pic.

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00270.jpg

Your help and opinions would be greatly appreciated!

[kingsmith]

just get some of the fork boots that slide over the seal pitted legs, job done ..
passes the mot and not have to see them again..
cannot fail as long as oils not pouring out all over the place..
____________________
honda cg 125 copy cheap and crap, perfect for work..
suzuki gsxr600 srad 2000
passed 12/11/09 happy boy

[Robby]

Have a search, I think it was Stinkwheel that gave a detailed write up on bodging pitted forks with araldite. I'll tell you what I can remember.

First off you normal araldite or I think you can use araldite precision. Do not use the quick setting stuff, you want the one that takes around 24 hours to fully cure. It could be extremely slow setting in a cold garage in the middle of winter, so probably best to let them sit in the house to let the resin cure.

First step is to get the stanchions very clean. I assume you have the forks stripped and apart already. Get them totally degreased with gunk or similar, then wipe down the outside with meths. You want the cloth or kitchen roll you wipe it with to end up clean on the final run. Don't then put them on a dirty bench, keep them clean. Newspaper is a good thing to lie them on.

If the pits have rust in, some metal polish should work it out. I used brasso once, it worked but took a while. Any little specks of rust or crap need to be removed, use a pin if you have to to work them out.

Mix up the araldite and skim it over the affected areas of the fork. You are only trying to fill the holes, and will be removing the excess later, so only put a thin skim on. Like painting, it is better to build up thin layers than to put it all on at once.

Let it dry for 24 hours or as long as the packaging states, so it is fully cured. Inspect it carefully to make sure the pits are filled, if they aren't or some are sitting low, put on another coat.

Now for the time consuming bit. Carefully, using progressively finer grades of wet and dry paper, work back the araldited parts until they are level with the surrounding chrome. Do not use a high grit paper on the chrome itself, be sensible here. Once you are back to the level of the chrome use a metal polish - I would use something quite abrasive like autosol to start with, then finish with brasso or similar.

A final wash down with solvent, then a very, very careful inspection under a strong light.

Reassemble. I would put a thin smear of vaseline over the non-working bit of the stanchions. In fact I would put it over the working bit too, but I'm not sure if that's a great idea. Use genuine Honda fork seals, they only cost about £12-14 a set which is about the same as a pattern set once you lump on delivery. If they leak in the future, you can know that the seals were'nt the problem. Every set of pattern seals I have ever fitted has leaked within two weeks.

Fit gaitors. They'll protect your forks, and at the MOT the tester can't remove them to check for leaks.

[johnsmith222]

Thanks a lot for all your help. I will look for that thread stinkwheel did. My last seals were pattern ones but I'll definately be getting some Honda ones this time.

I'm trying to sort out everything on the bike properly so it's all good. Thanks for your help.

[G]

[johnsmith222]

[Fisty]

Pair of CG125 forks on ebay for £30

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-CG125-FORKS-other-parts-available-BREAKING_W0QQitemZ320463982708QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item4a9d245074
____________________
Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[G]

[27cows]

I've bodged pitted stanchions with Chemical Metal in the past. Works OK as a short term solution. But you should be able to get replacements for a CG for next to nothing - probably no more than new seals would cost.

Another solution/bodge is to use heavier oil, which doesn't get past the seals anywhere near as easily. Would probably not do the handling much harm either.

[ZRX61]