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YBR Starting/running problems

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s1h
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Joined: 14 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: YBR Starting/running problems Reply with quote

Afternoon, Been having a couple of problems with my Yamaha YBR just recently. Wondering if anyone can give any pointers. 125 2005 carb model.

It started last week when I rode it to work in the snow got about 5 miles from work and it just lost all power. Like there was no fuel getting through just nothing at all when you pulled back the throttle, the lights still worked and the neutral light was still on however when i pushed the indicator it didnt flash just stayed on as a solid light.

After leaving it for a few minutes i managed to get it started using the kick start, the electric start just made a wimpering noise if anything at all. Got another 2 or 3 miles and it did the same thing again and no matter how hard i tried couldnt get it started. Pushed it to work left it there 2 or 3 days till the weather improved, tried it again and it started off the kick 3rd go. Let it run for 10 mins turned it off left it a while and worked off the electric start as well, all lights and indicators etc working as they should.

Went to ride it home the next morning (13 miles) bit of snow and a lot of slush on the road got 2 or 3 miles from home it did exactly the same thing, couldnt get it started had to push it home.

People are telling me different things. Battery is knackered? Crap in the carb, ice in the carb, fuel line frozen.

Anyone got any ideas? Just to note after pushing it home i put it in the garage overnight and it started first time the next morning. It starts fine now but im reluctant to use it incase it breaks down again part way through my journey.
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the electrics are going haywire, suggests to me it would be that causing the problem.. could this also affect the spark plug?
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s1h
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moo. wrote:
If the electrics are going haywire, suggests to me it would be that causing the problem.. could this also affect the spark plug?


Once its started and running though the electrics are fine. It just seemed like there wasn't enough power. I've put the battery on charge for a few hours this afternoon ill see if that does anything. Although i wouldnt of thought it would need it as i use it for a 25 mile commute every day so the batteries not left for extended periods of time.

I've ordered a new plug which should come tomorrow so ill give that a try. Also just took the air filter off which as soon as i did brown shit ran out everywhere so maybe that was starving it of fuel.
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

People are telling me different things. Battery is knackered? Crap in the carb, ice in the carb, fuel line frozen.

Ive read about carb icing and it sounds similair, i believe people put a bit of isopropynol alchohol in the fuel to combat this, but wait till a more experienced person comes along, although ive not been able to ride mine the bike still gets started twice a week for 10 min and its been ok but your on the road in ice cold weather.
I would think its one of the above.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650
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crackpotterpi...
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

it sounds like you have 2 seperate problems there,after you left it running for 10 mins you say that it had charged the battery up? if thats the case your charging system would seem like its ok but if you can get hold of a multimeter and check the charging at the battery should be about 14 volts.Could be an intermittent charging fault maybe the rectifier? And i think the running fault could maybe be the carb and jets need cleaning............all the best
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1990 jc20 nsr125-sold,2003 cg 125-sold currently no bike.........might get another 2 stroke me thinks much more fun
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s1h
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest the electric start not working now and again doesn't bother me. Its not hard to kick it. Its the problem with it cutting out and having to push it home.

I'll try a multimeter on it.

Got the Haynes manual coming in the post tomorrow, finally they have brought one out for this bike i have been looking for one for the last few years. Hopefully that should have some help with cleaning the carb etc.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is odd. I usually only work on the injected bikes but keep me informed.
When was it last serviced? i.e. oil change.
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s1h
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

XlonewolfX wrote:
That is odd. I usually only work on the injected bikes but keep me informed.
When was it last serviced? i.e. oil change.


Back end of last year was taken in for a full service. Oil is topped up when needed but it doesn't use a lot anyway.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 14 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1h wrote:
XlonewolfX wrote:
That is odd. I usually only work on the injected bikes but keep me informed.
When was it last serviced? i.e. oil change.


Back end of last year was taken in for a full service. Oil is topped up when needed but it doesn't use a lot anyway.

They take alot of abuse so was just wondering if service history could of been a factor.
Cutting out after 10 or so mins could be mixture related, carb icing could be a factor but only if you spend most your time going at a fast(ish) pace.
But seeing as you said the starter sounded back it could be a poor earth, or a bad battery thats finally given up its service.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 16 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The '05 model has a battery that needs to be topped up with distilled water. Lots of people overlook this and the level drops, leaving half the plates exposed and knackering out the battery. Worth a look, perhaps? Other things to check for would be crap stuck in the fuel cap vent, or a clogged fuel filter perhaps? Have you tried switching to reserve and seeing if the problem persists, to see if one of the inlet pipes is blocked?
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CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)
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TUG
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 16 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

neil.martin wrote:
The '05 model has a battery that needs to be topped up with distilled water. Lots of people overlook this and the level drops, leaving half the plates exposed and knackering out the battery. Worth a look, perhaps? Other things to check for would be crap stuck in the fuel cap vent, or a clogged fuel filter perhaps? Have you tried switching to reserve and seeing if the problem persists, to see if one of the inlet pipes is blocked?

The level Will drop over a few years yes, but will adding new fluid recharge the battery?
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neil.
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 16 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

XlonewolfX wrote:
The level Will drop over a few years yes, but will adding new fluid recharge the battery?


I'm not sure, but would it perhaps increase the capacity if the exposed plates are not too far buggered?
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CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 16 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

XlonewolfX wrote:
neil.martin wrote:
The '05 model has a battery that needs to be topped up with distilled water. Lots of people overlook this and the level drops, leaving half the plates exposed and knackering out the battery. Worth a look, perhaps? Other things to check for would be crap stuck in the fuel cap vent, or a clogged fuel filter perhaps? Have you tried switching to reserve and seeing if the problem persists, to see if one of the inlet pipes is blocked?

The level Will drop over a few years yes, but will adding new fluid recharge the battery?


No it won't recharge the battery. It's the battery acid that holds the charge. It's just that some of this acid seems to disappear over time and the best way to dilute it is with distilled water to stop what is mentioned above.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 16 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It disappears because of boiling when used thats why you have to vent it (as far as i'm aware might be wrong). The battery must be 2-3 yrs old for the level to drop below the lower marking on it. I fill them to the top line when i PDI a new bike.
If the battery is 3-4 yrs old and hasn't been maintained then it could possibly new battery time, Its very rare for a battery to prolong its life i think the best we had was 6 years but the bloke charged it every night and generally looked after all his bike.
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s1h
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 17 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments. I'm positive it has to be electrical.

Tried it on reserve and it still did the same thing. Battery has been topped up and charged regularly plus I use it for a 25 or 30 mile commute each day so its not left to run down for weeks at a time.

Saying that for the last day or 2 it has been fine.Until I came out of work tonight in the pouring rain turned the key. Nothing, no neutral light, no fuel gauge going up no lights nothing at all. Wouldn't work on kick or electric or bump.

I think it must be wiring rather than the battery as I tested the volts on the battery with a multimeter and it read 13.2V or there abouts. Which according to the haynes manual is fine as it should be between 12.8 & 13.2.

However this next part I can't explain. After disconnecting the battery and taking it off I tried to kick start it and it went first time. Does that give anymore indication of what the problem could be?

It was running fine as well although I left it at work as I didn't dare try and get home incase it cut out and had to push it again or be stuck in the pouring rain.

I'm slowly starting to lose patience with it but am loathed to have to take it in somewhere and pay someone unless absolutely neccersary.

Any ideas ?
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 17 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a multimeter can show a battery in good condition but it may be duff, they use another tool to test the battery, it presses on both connections at the sae time and tells you if its ok or not.
I think and may be wrong here but if one cell is knackered and the others are fine and fully charged it may seem like its fine.
Hang fire and others more experianced will be on, although if it starts fine all the time when you kick it over it does sound electrical, i would take the battery off and have it tested properly.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650
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TUG
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 18 Jan 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your bike was fine until today/yesterday when it had rained and you lost all power?
That is quite odd to be honest, You have said the bike is charging the battery but what does the battery read on its own? then if left for a few hours?
The reason i ask is, when i had my 400 the battery was kaput and it would hold its charge for a few mins then completely discharge.
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