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primalcarl
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Joined: 13 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 26 Jun 2004    Post subject: Spark plugs Reply with quote

My bike is running again, after fitting a new cdi. However, the guy who did it didn't have the correct spark plug and said it was misfiring a bit but if I took it steady I should make it home.

I took it easy, and had to keep the revs high. After about 6 miles and almost home, the engine died. I waited a few minutes and then it started again. It kept doing this, running for a bit then just dying.

I'm hoping this is just because the wrong spark plug is in the bike?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 26 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

It could be the plug, but personally I would doubt it. If it was wrong enough for the engine to die then I doubt it would restart.

I would think the most likely cause is either a kinked fuel hose or a blocked breather into the fuel tank, or possibly a blocked fuel filter.

All the best

Keith
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 26 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kickstart.

When I go back to the bike later I will fit the new spark plug, and also check the fuel lines as someone else mentioned this. Will report back on what happens
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Frost
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Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

had this with my bike a few months back. i put some plugs in it to replace the unbranded ones previously in it. the ones which were in it before where i suspect incorrect. when they got hot the engine would cut out. i had people try to tell me i had ceased the bike, but it turned over fine, plenty of compression, fuel was fine etc. But i had to wait for it to cool down before i could use it again. since replacing the plugs ive not had the problem.


https://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/index.html

go there and get yourself a set of the correct plugs for your bike.
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badlydamaged
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Joined: 29 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:32 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same happened to me as well, when it got hot after a few miles it started backfiring and died. Had to wait for it to cool down, otherwise the engine would backfire when kicking it over, waited for about 20 minutes, got on it and hobbled home, turned out to be the spark plugs Thumbs Up
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what happens to me. I replaced the spark plug with the correct one (NGK BR8ES I think) and it starts fine but after a few miles the revs will start to die then it cuts out

Have just cleaned the tap filter and air filter, I don't know what else to do apart from taking the caburettor off and cleaning it Crying or Very sad
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badlydamaged
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey again
Well my bike apparantly runs on B8ES which is what the manufacteurers recomend, and this was the plug that caused all the backfiring and cutting out, when replaced with new ones of the same it went for a while and then the same old thing started again. Now what I did is brought slightly hotter plugs, B5ES and used those ever since Iv'e had my bike on the road and I have had no problems what so ever, the Bikeshop spoke to a few people and found out that it was safe to put this temperature plug in my bike with no worries Very Happy . I have heard of the same problems on other examples of my bike (Kh100) as well.

If I were you I would try putting a slightly hotter plug in, BR5ES I would try after checking with your local bike shop / specialist / dealer if this is safe to do so with your bike. If so then see if your problem goes away, I'm guessing your bike is a two stroke here. It's definatly worth checking about wheather its safe to do this first, as you dont want your engine overheating and seizing up on you.

Anyway, give it a go, if its the same problem I had on my bike (sure sounds like it) then this should sort it Thumbs Up .

Cheers, Jonathan
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My bike: 1988 Kawasaki KH100 Status: Polluting Devon with two stroke smog and noise pollution!
"Its not your engine size that matters!, It's what you do with it that counts" Very Happy
Add me to MSN if you want! badlydamaged@hotmail.com.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

A B5 is a hell of a lot hotter than a B8. The spark plug removes heat from the combustion chamber. From the NGK web site the difference between one rating and the next is the ability to remove 70~100 degrees of heat, so going from a B8 to a B5 will increase the temperature of the electrode by between 210 and 300 degrees, compared to an operating range for a spark plug of 500 to 850 degrees.

While I might drop from a B8 to a B7 I don't think I would go that far.

Also if the plug is causing the problem then it would probably be from overheating rather than fouling. A hotter plug would make it overheat more.

All the best

Keith
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 27 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you suggest I do? And how much of a part does the cdi play? I have a feeling he has used a different cdi on the bike
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badlydamaged
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 28 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

While I might drop from a B8 to a B7 I don't think I would go that far.

Also if the plug is causing the problem then it would probably be from overheating rather than fouling. A hotter plug would make it overheat more.
Keith


Thats what I thought to myself when I was chatting to my mechanic, with it being a 2 Stroke Air Cooled engine I figured it was a bit dangerous, but he assured me it was safe as the hottest you could go with my engine, and as he knows a lot about these bikes, and had just carried out a full engine rebuild (that if it went bang, the work would be guarranteed). I did as he said, put the hotter plugs in and have experianced no problems, iv'e since been on 100 mile flat out round trips and dual carridge way work just off the red line all the way, and the engine after 2000 miles is still absoultly perfect Thumbs Up .

With your engine it may not be safe to run as hot as that, its best to check with a specialist who works with your engine a lot and knows what they are talking about, as Like Keith says B8 to B5 is a big gap as far as heat ranges go. I was just going on my experiance with my bike, which has seemed to have solved the same problem. If I was you and the spark plug was the problem I would try a warmer plug, B7 to be safe and see if that makes a difference, but check with a specialist first Thumbs Up .

Cheers, Jonathan
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My bike: 1988 Kawasaki KH100 Status: Polluting Devon with two stroke smog and noise pollution!
"Its not your engine size that matters!, It's what you do with it that counts" Very Happy
Add me to MSN if you want! badlydamaged@hotmail.com.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 28 Jun 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

primalcarl wrote:
What do you suggest I do? And how much of a part does the cdi play? I have a feeling he has used a different cdi on the bike


The cdi unit will control the ignition timing. However if it sparks then it is probably OK.

It is possible the ignition timing is out. One way this can happen is the woodruff key on the end of the crank that locates the rotor shears off allowing the rotor to move.

It should be easy to check the ignition timing with an inductive timing light.

All the best

Keith
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 02 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've cleaned the air filter, and fuel tap filter, and adjusted the caburettor to the setting the manual says (but have recorded what it was previously incase I have to change it back).

I just went for a ride and it does the same thing, starts to die. I went down the garage and he said it could be blocked fuel or anything but couldn't say until he looked at it. I don't have £39 an hour at the moment.

Do I risk spending £40 on the proper cdi, or attempt to clean the fuel system & caburettor?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 18:39 - 02 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Clean out the carb, fuel tap and check the fuel lines. All quite easy and should not take too long. Worth draining the tank as well. Just make sure you have something to store the petrol in first.

All the best

Keith
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 03 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I cleaned the carburettor, and have yet to take the bike out and test it.

Someone emailed me today, this is what he said:

'just an idea mate but have you checked the colour of the oil. sounds to me like coolant is leaking through the water pump into the gear oil causing an overheat. the problem which causes this is the mechanical seal in the water pump hope this helps marc'

Is this plausible? The oil is clear
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primalcarl
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 03 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the oil was clear last week but today it is more greyer and darker
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:51 - 03 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If the water was leaking into the gearbox oil then the gearbox oil would look like mayonaise.

All the best

Keith
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