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| scubie |
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| Cptn. Awesome |
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 Cptn. Awesome Crazy Courier
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| MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :     
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 Posted: 09:25 - 03 Mar 2010 Post subject: Re: Suspension tuning |
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| cheaperholidays wrote: | HI All
I did post this in another section but some ignorant individual marked it as spam, which is beyond me..
So here goes.
After spending much time making notes and tuning the suspension on the blade, from sag settings both static and rider to compression and rebound..
I seem to have something i am very good at, yesterday for example i set up 3 of my mates bikes 2 blades and one bandit, so if you live in South Wales i can have a look at your bike for free..
I cannot change forks or springs but i can adjust them for you so that the ride improves, and in most cases as was found yesterday, this made a considerable difference. (this is for road and not track use)
Just pm me if you would like any help. |
I can see how someone thought it was spam. Its just that usually the 'layman' on the street has no clue about suspension. I've researched the subject for years and I wouldn't be able to ride your bike and make it better for you... there is something weird about that.
The only way to make suspension work better for you is for you to set it up. The rider is the main variable in the problem of suspension. Normally the only people who can set up bikes for other people are professionals who ask you how the bike rides in a fixed environment, for example the track.
If I want to set my own suspension up, I use this method:
https://www.marjay.co.uk/setup.pdf
So it wasn't spam, but I can kinda see what they were getting at. You don't appear to want to charge for your services, which would definitely define your post as spam, so the previous rating is incorrect.
The only 'experts' on suspension that I recognise are those who have worked for Ohlins/Maxton/Nitron/Penske for years...[/url] ____________________ British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another. |
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| Smooth |
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 Smooth Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 21 Apr 2008 Karma :  
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 Posted: 10:02 - 03 Mar 2010 Post subject: |
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It is definitely a personal thing, but someone with some knowledge can certainly improve a bike that is setup badly -many bikes are never changed from the fairly random factory settings- Get the sag right and just too little damping and they're on their way. The final tweaking is based on preferences.
I can't see anything wrong with helping people out ad explaining the concepts to people.
it's not just motorbikes:
I was translating(in the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king ) for a British chap with a big, expensive downhill bike in a Morzine bike shop last year. He had loads of sag and virtually no rebound front or rear. I suggested he adjusted it, but he said,
"it's been like that for a long time and I 'd rather not play with it"
all the gear.... It must have ridden like an absolute pig. Out-riding chaps like that on my hardtail gave a pleasant feeling of smugness. ____________________ TDM850
Last edited by Smooth on 10:24 - 03 Mar 2010; edited 1 time in total |
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| scubie |
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 scubie Banned
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 Posted: 10:21 - 03 Mar 2010 Post subject: Re: Suspension tuning |
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| MarJay wrote: |
The only way to make suspension work better for you is for you to set it up. The rider is the main variable in the problem of suspension. Normally the only people who can set up bikes for other people are professionals who ask you how the bike rides in a fixed environment, for example the track.
... |
The trouble is it is so easy to do yourself, for example i took my bike to a tuning expert and watched what he did i after i set up the blade..
He did what i did nothing new - static sag rider sag ect ect.
So if you want to do it yourself here goes: Nothing here is cast in stone its what feels correct for you, but here are the basics. For Road use.
1. Pen and paper
2. tape measure or ruler
3. Cable ties.
4. A mate or donkey to hold the bike
Some would advise before you start to take the bike back to factory settings preload - damping ect but it makes no difference.
Now to start.
Bike on sidestand, lift front wheel monetarily of the ground, and gently place back down.
This is the unsprung length of your forks, measure to a fixed point on the bike.. On normal forks i use the point where the forks go through the frame, on upside forks go the other way.
This is measurement A Say 320mm
Next place a cabletie on the fork (the shiny bit) and slide to the top of the fork seal.
Next Put all your gear on including helmet and sit on bike in your normal riding position, do not bounce just site on the bike with your feet of the ground for a second..
Measure from the same fixed point to the bottom of the cable tie..
This is measurement B say 290 mm
So your rider sag is A - B or 30 mm
For road use this is about right within the range of 30 to 40 mm
If you have to much sag say 40 mm you need to increase preload to reduce it, making sure its the same for each adjuster..
Next we have rebound adjustment (damping) and compression damping, for this you need to be able to compress the forks and ensure that they do not go down and come up past the neutral setting..
This is a feel thing its your bike:
If the front doesn’t feel like it’s springing back, the rebound damping is too firm. If the front flies up, it’s too soft. Try your standard setting 5 clicks out from fully in and adjust from there one click in or out can make a world of difference.
Compression damping i set to 4 clicks from max and then go for a ride.
Repeat for the rear except you do not use cable ties just measure to fixed point on the chassis rear rider sag should be around 20 mm if its not adjust using the C spanner to adjust the preload.
As a very broad guide a road bike should have 25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear. ____________________ The rumour about the welsh chasing sheep is not true. Ok its partially true but i was only ever helping it over the fence. |
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| MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :     
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 Posted: 10:37 - 03 Mar 2010 Post subject: Re: Suspension tuning |
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| cheaperholidays wrote: | | MarJay wrote: |
The only way to make suspension work better for you is for you to set it up. The rider is the main variable in the problem of suspension. Normally the only people who can set up bikes for other people are professionals who ask you how the bike rides in a fixed environment, for example the track.
... |
The trouble is it is so easy to do yourself, for example i took my bike to a tuning expert and watched what he did i after i set up the blade..
He did what i did nothing new - static sag rider sag ect ect.
So if you want to do it yourself here goes: Nothing here is cast in stone its what feels correct for you, but here are the basics. For Road use.
1. Pen and paper
2. tape measure or ruler
3. Cable ties.
4. A mate or donkey to hold the bike
Some would advise before you start to take the bike back to factory settings preload - damping ect but it makes no difference.
Now to start.
Bike on sidestand, lift front wheel monetarily of the ground, and gently place back down.
This is the unsprung length of your forks, measure to a fixed point on the bike.. On normal forks i use the point where the forks go through the frame, on upside forks go the other way.
This is measurement A Say 320mm
Next place a cabletie on the fork (the shiny bit) and slide to the top of the fork seal.
Next Put all your gear on including helmet and sit on bike in your normal riding position, do not bounce just site on the bike with your feet of the ground for a second..
Measure from the same fixed point to the bottom of the cable tie..
This is measurement B say 290 mm
So your rider sag is A - B or 30 mm
For road use this is about right within the range of 30 to 40 mm
If you have to much sag say 40 mm you need to increase preload to reduce it, making sure its the same for each adjuster..
Next we have rebound adjustment (damping) and compression damping, for this you need to be able to compress the forks and ensure that they do not go down and come up past the neutral setting..
This is a feel thing its your bike:
If the front doesn’t feel like it’s springing back, the rebound damping is too firm. If the front flies up, it’s too soft. Try your standard setting 5 clicks out from fully in and adjust from there one click in or out can make a world of difference.
Compression damping i set to 4 clicks from max and then go for a ride.
Repeat for the rear except you do not use cable ties just measure to fixed point on the chassis rear rider sag should be around 20 mm if its not adjust using the C spanner to adjust the preload.
As a very broad guide a road bike should have 25-30mm of loaded sag at the front and 20-22mm at the rear. |
I don't think your sag values are correct, I think that the sag values depend on the overall travel of the suspension. However, there are some cases where sitting at a third of suspension travel is incorrect. For example, on the early R1 the forks were designed with longer fork tubes than normal in an attempt to try to keep the front wheel on the road under hard acceleration.
Still, what I'm concerned about here is you painting yourself as an expert and you'll help anybody with suspension setup when a) the information is freely available on the internet to do it yourself b) the suspension setup for any given bike and rider is personal to the rider and c) it is very easy to mess it up.
Maybe you do have an amazing gift for suspension setup that none of us can go near, but we don't know that! ____________________ British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another. |
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| scubie |
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 MarJay But it's British!

Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Karma :     
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 Posted: 11:11 - 03 Mar 2010 Post subject: Re: Suspension tuning |
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| cheaperholidays wrote: | I am not painting myself as an expert, i am offering to help and also show a way to set your bike up for road use.. Where you would need an extra few mm in suspension travel to take out the bumps and potholes. |
What you describe there (adding a few MM of suspension travel to absorb bumps) is not the way to get the best from your suspension. It may be that the bike is set up perfectly for the rider (they usually are if the rider is Mr Average) but its a little harsh over potholes. This is necessary, as if you dial out the harshness over potholes you make the bike sloppy in corners.
Riding a bike is not about riding smoothly over potholes, its about cornering. And to ruin cornering for the sake of a little bit of extra comfort is pointless IMO. Again, I'm just going to prove that suspension setup is a very personal thing, and as such you're not providing a panacea for all suspension issues.
| cheaperholidays wrote: |
I am not painting myself as an expert, i am offering to help. |
Offering to help people IS painting yourself as an expert IMO.
You seem to not quite get the principle behind suspension. Suspension is not there to make the ride smooth, suspension is there to keep your wheels on the road so you have enough grip for acceleration, braking and cornering. In some cases, people do not have enough sag on their bike and they ride with the bike 'topped out' This is not good as there is no extra travel to absorb drops in the road surface. In this case, the wheel will leave the road for a fraction of a second each time the road drops away from the wheel. I'm not talking potholes here, I'm talking minor ripples. This makes the bike feel harsh and unforgiving.
However, sometimes (particularly if the rider is on the larger side) the rider has too much sag which means the bike doesn't keep any suspension travel in reserve when the road surface rises. This makes the bike feel soggy and vague.
The trick is to get the best balance between harshness and vagueness. This is not something that is easy to achieve, and if you're taking off a turn of preload here and there to help with potholes, I suspect you're missing the important aspects of suspension setup.
I'm not a suspension expert, and I certainly wouldn't post on the forum offering to set peoples bikes up for them. I do regularly direct people to good guides on the subject, and then with this information it allows people to attempt the setup themselves, and tune it to their own needs. To merely come along and turn some adjusters to make the bike 'softer' or 'harder' is missing the point, and can potentially leave people with a worse suspension setup than when they started. ____________________ British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another. |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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 Posted: 17:37 - 04 Mar 2010 Post subject: |
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He suggests...
Front Preload
Some people set the front suspension based on rider sag and static sag. This is especially useful in determining if you need softer or stiffer springs. Use the same system as above to determine Rider sag (35-48mm) and Static sag (25-30mm).
However i find thats a bit soft, but each to there own, you want an extra few mm suspension travel left for road use as the surface is not constant. ____________________ The rumour about the welsh chasing sheep is not true. Ok its partially true but i was only ever helping it over the fence. |
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 Posted: 18:00 - 04 Mar 2010 Post subject: |
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I would argue that setting a bike up for the road and setting a bike up for the track are completely different. Not just because the two environments are very different, but because the track bikes have pukka race suspension. Some race suspension "prefers" less sag than others(Ohlins changed their shock sag guidlines in 2008 IIRC from a conversation I was having with 100% suspenion). ____________________ My Flickr |
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 Posted: 18:48 - 04 Mar 2010 Post subject: |
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I firmly believe that my set up as in the working example gives you a neutral position for road use..
Now each to there own, but from here you can go plus or minus on rebound and compression..
The blade is 4 clicks front compression and 5 clicks rebound
Rear is 3 clicks rebound and 1 and a 1/4 turn compresion
NOTHING IS CAST IN STONE.. ITS YOUR BIKE
I am a hang of the bike sort of guy, although have not quite got my knee down... although it corners like its on rails.
When i bounce the bike with a mate holiding it, it acts as one front and rear in ballance. ____________________ The rumour about the welsh chasing sheep is not true. Ok its partially true but i was only ever helping it over the fence. |
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| Howling TerrorOutOfOffice |
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 Posted: 19:20 - 04 Mar 2010 Post subject: |
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I'll be using Keith Codes method. But it doesn't mention whether the bike should be fully fuelled. Won't make much difference to my old bike but would do for track and pernickity road riders.
Pat ____________________ Diabolical homemade music Bandcamp and Soundcloud
Singer songwriter, Artist and allround good bloke Listen to Andrew Susan Johnston here
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 16 years, 193 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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