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To anyone confused with where to fit Restrictor Kits

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Ditto
Nearly there...



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 18 Mar 2010    Post subject: To anyone confused with where to fit Restrictor Kits Reply with quote

Ok, so i know when I was looking into bikes with no knowledge of even what a carb did i had no clue as to where the restrictor kit would go.

Ive found quite a good picture though which demonstrates their location.

This will be the same for most if not all kits that use discs for restricting down to 33bhp, be it 2 cylinder, 4, whatever.

They always go into the inlet rubbers. Do not know of a kit consiting of discs which doesnt.

If your bike does not use discs for restricting this will not be of help, as they will fit into another part of the carb.

So you have your kit like this. They will look similar for all bikes, a metal washer with a hole in to restrict the intake flow.

https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll267/yankee_doodle_01/banditwashers.jpg

Locate the carbs which should be easy, and you will have to loosen the clips securing them at both the airbox side and engine side. For this example im using my Bandit. The airbox can be unbolted and slid back. Once this is done slide the carbs back so there is a gap to reach into the rubbers.

https://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2451/restrictorlocation.jpg

Pop the kit into the rubbers, and there you have it.

This shows what they look like in position.

https://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3976/restictorcopy.jpg

Slide the carbs back on, make sure they line up, bolt the airbox back on and secure the clips.

And there you have it. Easy enough to do, and wont need to pay the garage silly amounts.
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everyreasonto
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 22:35 - 23 Mar 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome thanks, i'm getting a zxr soon that needs restricting. I'm good with a spanner and I refuse to pay the garage £200 for it Thumbs Up
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HD
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PostPosted: 00:37 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it really that simple?

And does your bike have 4 carbs? Confused
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:53 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usefull info there. But have you actually done it yet?

In my experience, life ain't usually quite so simple.

For one thing. You are unlikely to be able to move the carbs far enough back to detach them from the inlet manifold with the airbox rubbers still attached. Once they're off, there is usually JUST enough space to slide the carbs out sideways. The airbox rubbers are usually a complete bastard to put back on again afterwards.

It's also thas case that on any bike with a few miles on, the rubbers go pretty stiff. It takes quite a hard pull to get the carbs off the inlet rubbers. It can also be very hard to insert the washers without heating said rubbers to soften them up a bit (dunking them in boiling water is a favourite).

I have also yet to see an inline, multi-cylinder jap bike on which "unbolting the airbox" didn't involve removing a hell of a lot of componants to get at it. Even then you can only move it about half an inch back. Different for downdraught carbs or V configured engines because the airbox does unbolt and lift off.

What this boils down to is you usually have to remove the carbs altogether, and probably the inlet rubbers too in order to fit the restrictor washers.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 08:48 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Usefull info there. But have you actually done it yet?

In my experience, life ain't usually quite so simple.

For one thing. You are unlikely to be able to move the carbs far enough back to detach them from the inlet manifold with the airbox rubbers still attached. Once they're off, there is usually JUST enough space to slide the carbs out sideways. The airbox rubbers are usually a complete bastard to put back on again afterwards.

It's also thas case that on any bike with a few miles on, the rubbers go pretty stiff. It takes quite a hard pull to get the carbs off the inlet rubbers. It can also be very hard to insert the washers without heating said rubbers to soften them up a bit (dunking them in boiling water is a favourite).

I have also yet to see an inline, multi-cylinder jap bike on which "unbolting the airbox" didn't involve removing a hell of a lot of componants to get at it. Even then you can only move it about half an inch back. Different for downdraught carbs or V configured engines because the airbox does unbolt and lift off.

What this boils down to is you usually have to remove the carbs altogether, and probably the inlet rubbers too in order to fit the restrictor washers.


Got to agree with Stinkwheel.

Let me give you an idea how, bleedin', difficult it can be to get, older, carb rubbers off.
Had a problem with my CBR a couple of weeks ago, carbs needed cleaning so I thought I'd replace the rubbers at the same time.
Tank off, air box off and cables disconnected, slackened jubilee clips on rubbers.
The bike was on the side stand. "Easing" the carbs off the block, as it says in "Haynes", just doesn't happen. After half an hour of heaving and pulling I managed to move the bike a meter down the drive.
Then resorted to a, very large, flat blade screwdriver to prize, the one and only accesible rubber off, this took about 10 mins of scraped knuckles and much swearing, to move it a couple of millimeters.
After a another 10 mins of heaving, the end carb rubber gave me 5mm then let go. Once that one had shifted the rest followed suit.
The rubbers were hard as nails!
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truslack
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Joined: 08 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

HD wrote:
Is it really that simple?

And does your bike have 4 carbs? Confused


Really that simple, though some need jets changing aswell (as pointed out in the thread by Spetom).

And yes, most 4 cylinder bikes (that aren't FI) have 4 carbs.
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modern sports 4s tend to be much easier than a-bit-older ones. Their carbs tend to be angled up with the airbox directly under the tank. So tank off, then airbox comes off straight up to reveal carbs which are also generally fairly easy to dislodge.

However, I would worry about the original post - if someone needed the information in the first place, I'd suggest they get some assistance or do more research on general bike spannering stuff first.
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Ditto
Nearly there...



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was more a guide for those who have an once of knowledge but are generally confused about what a restriction kit is.

After all everything else can be found in the Haynes manual.

And although I had a different method of restriction, yes, I have stripped down my bike to the point the washers could be fitted.

Had to strip and clean my carbs once and whilst doing it I thought;

"Up to the point of actually taking the carbs off the bike, the steps to expose the inlet manifolds is exactly the same."

And on the Bandit it is suprisingly easy to move the airbox back. It is only held in place with a couple of bolts once the tank is off.
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The last post was made 15 years, 345 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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