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carb balancing 250 twin

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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 12 Apr 2010    Post subject: carb balancing 250 twin Reply with quote

ok i decided yetserday to have a look at my carbs as she is a bit lumpy at low rpm.
i have an infra red temp gun so started with exh temps for each cyl at the head. no1 was 60 deg and no2 was 185 deg at idle so i assumed that no2 was doing all the work and adjusted the screw to close no 2 a bit and open no 1 .. i got the exh temps closer at 100/130 deg C but then the rpms would hang when revved and take ages to come back to idle..
i think there may be some crap in the carbs maybe from being stood but removing them is a pretty hefty job by the looks. any easy way of checking the balance between the carbs before i start getting too involved.. the airbox is not easy to remove either.
bike is a kawasaki el 250 watercooled twin 1999.
ta jim
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 12 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a carb syn balancer kit to do this properly which consists of Vacuum gauges being connected to the intake manifolds on the cylinder block

ebay sell em so does Busters Accessories etc
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 12 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CARB-CARBURETTOR-VACUUM-BALANCER-GAUGE-2-4-CYLINDER_W0QQitemZ270456885585QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item3ef87c9151
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 12 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, use vacuum guages to balance them and follow the method in the workshop manual. I bought a cheap set of guages for about £20 a few years ago, so they're cheap. Never used them, so they may be crap.

Before adjusting the carb balance you should (but few do) make sure the valve clearances are correct, the exhausts are in good condition and not leaking at the head, the inlet rubbers are in good condition and not leaking, and the carbs are clean. I hate removing and cleaning carbs, particularly on multis, so an easy check is to drain the float bowls into a cup and see if the stuff that came out looks like petrol, or looks like petrol with lots of brown rusty crap in.

Of course, if the valves are a shim job instead of being screw and locknut, I wouldn't want to adjust them. Far too much cocking around.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 12 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok had another go tonite with a vacuum gauge i robbed off something else Cool
got both reading the same now and i was only 1/4 of a turn out before so i must have a good ear Mr. Green
yes she is on shims and luckily for me they were done 2k ago before i bought it. running pretty nice now but i am sure there is a bit of muck in there somewhere so i will try some redex or similar.
thanks for the advice guys Thumbs Up
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"
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