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fuel tank, cleaning it out and checking for rust/crap inside

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steven_191
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Joined: 31 May 2009
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 10 Apr 2010    Post subject: fuel tank, cleaning it out and checking for rust/crap inside Reply with quote

i opened up a fuel tank that i thought had fuel in it, took the tap off and brown water come out lol. so i assume its moisture built up and probably started to rust.


can i salvage it?? someone suggested filling it with diesel and washing that through it but i dont think that will do anything for the rust problem, assuming there is one.
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oriel dave
Nova Slayer



Joined: 29 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 10 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

My brother just fixed his tank using por15. It's quite a long process but cleans out all the rust and forms a new seal on the inside of the tank. Thumbs Up
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 10 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are lots of methods.

You can pour in various acids that will strip the rust.

You can use a rust converter to turn it into a hard black coating.

You can shake a handful of nuts on a string around inside until it scrapes all the rust off.

Or you can use electrolysis.


I'm going to hook mine up to my electrolysis rig tomorrow, very important to let it dry thouroughly afterwards. Water and fuel together are bad.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 07:02 - 11 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

CHR15 wrote:
Quote:
brother just fixed his tank using por15. It's quite a long process but cleans out all the rust and forms a new seal on the inside of the tank.


which is all good, until you wind forward a year.

i sealed a tank going exactly by the instructions, i sold the bike to a friedn why stripped it and stored it all, last week we had a look in the tank.

the pos15 had bubble and loads of rust had come back through.


i just read that POR-15 stuff take 4-7 days lol. might get a professional quote or just buy a new tank then
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 08:51 - 11 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever method you do, if you use any water (any many do for rinsing etc) You can expect to leave it inside for close to a week to fully dry.

You might get away with just doing the marine clean part of the POR-15 job. If you do, let me know how it goes. It's supposed to strip out the rust and leave a zinc coating. The next plastic coating part is for a tank that's starting to leak or rust through.
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el_oso
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Joined: 17 May 2008
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 11 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the electrolysis method works extremely well and will be very cheap to do using household items. the advantage of electrolysis is that it doesn't damage any of the good metal unlike acid methods.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 14 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

if i were to try the elctrolysis method would i put the rod thats taking all the rust (anode of cathode) inside the tank (without touching it) to draw it all away or would it still work just as well if it were outside the tank?
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 22:21 - 14 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You fill the tank with electrolyte and have the electrode stuck in the filler hole, without touching the metal of the tank.

Will take a good while, give the small contact area possible for the electrode. 8 hours on 15 amps got the worst of the looser rust off, but it's going to go back on for a longer session when I get round to it to give me clean metal all round.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 15 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the negative end needs to be connected to the tank. (cathode)
the positive end needs to be connected to the metal rod that doesn't matter about being destroyed. (anode)
i removed every single piece of rust from a motorbike frame in about 4hours or so. used an old computer power supply. used a 12v 5amp power rail.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 15 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the_godfather wrote:
the negative end needs to be connected to the tank. (cathode)
the positive end needs to be connected to the metal rod that doesn't matter about being destroyed. (anode)
i removed every single piece of rust from a motorbike frame in about 4hours or so. used an old computer power supply. used a 12v 5amp power rail.


My dad used petseal I think, I would put a load of nuts on a string inside it then shake the shit out of it, then use some petseal or similar.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 13:27 - 15 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scratch that there are loads of cheap, Tanks on ebay, buy one of those.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 15 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheap and not dented to fuck?
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 15 years, 285 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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