Singlespeed Mountain bike question

[Ciar?n]

Yeah i know it's kinda off topic, (mods feel free to move)

I have a Commencal Max Max absolut 2009.

Modded to hell apart from the gearing.

It worked fine at the bmx tracks, but it's now used purely for park stuff.

I just wondered, if the gearing works the same on these as on a motorbike.

Bigger rear, smaller front - Better Accel

Smaller Rear, larger front - harder to pedal, but easier to keep speed.

Help?
And any advice on what to buy/run will help.

Thanks
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[jturn]

you did good with that question.....

your correct
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jimmy t

[yuri2085]

Yes to your gearing question.

As in, bigger rear, smaller front (sprockets) = lower gears available and vice versa.

[Simple]

www.bikeradar.co.uk
www.singletrackworld.com
www.moredirt.com
www.chasetrails.co.uk
etc
you'll find recommendations online for what ratio gearing to have for what stuff. chase trails is local to westmidlands, signletrack world is mainly down sarf, loik. So people will have set ups for places local to them, may be of a more specific help to you...

still think single speeds are nuts, all the effort of a fixie with none of the fun of being able to pedal backwards! heh.
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Insta - FemFeral

[Ciar?n]

Try doing ledge hops on a fixed gear lol.

Thanks for the help guys
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[Ciar?n]

Sorry for double post.

But since i'm here, so if i just go up a few teeth on the rear, bish bash bosh and try again.

Any advice to working on them.

It's all small and delicate compared to what i normally work on =P
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22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[stinkwheel]

Get on Sheldon Browns website. An absolute wealth of information there. It'll tell you everything you want to know about gearing but broadly yes, bigger on front = faster but harder to pedal, smaller on back = the same.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

There is a balance to be struck when selecting your gearing. Ground clearance is an issue on a mountain bike so you might need to compromise fitting a smaller front chainring than would be ideal.

Remember the gearing is affected by the diameter of your wheels and the length of your cranks too. So what gearing one person says they have in terms of teeth is only relevant to their particular setup. To accurately compare, you need to convert it into gear-inches using an online gear calculator. You can then put your own setup in and fiddle with teeth numbers.

But yes, it's a case of feeling your way 'till you find a gearing that suits. You may also chop and change according to conditions. Miche style track cogs allow a quick and easy change of gearing without having to undo the main sprocket carrier.

You can even get double rear sprockets so with a flip-flop fixed hub you'd have four options. You just stop and move the chain over onto the other sprocket.

I've built a couple of fixies and a single speed. Some of my tips (some of which only really apply to fixies):

1) Loctite the bottom bracket. Really, or it'll unscrew.

2) Foot retention is totally essential on a fixie. Either SPD or toeclips.

3) Learn to rotafix so your rear sprockets are on tight. Buy a good quality lockring (surly, talon) but remember you don't need to absolutely hammer it on, nipped up tight enough is fine.

4) Spend the time making sure your chain line is bang on. Watch for tight spots, keep it properly adjusted.

5) Gear it lower than you think you'll need and learn to pedal with a faster cadence.

6) A front brake is good, fit one and use it. Skidding is for track cyclists and hipsters.

7) Keep your fingers out of the chain when working on the bike. It'll eat them quicker than you can see.

A good source of parts is www.charliethbikemonger.co.uk . In particular he does single speed chains with a half link which are very useful.

I'm running 46/15 (front to back) with 700C wheels and a 170mm crank on my single speed road bike which works out as 84 gear inches, I'm unfit and can make it up most hills on that.

I'd suggest for pissing about in a park, I'd want it a couple of teeth lower, somewhere around 17 or 18 teeth on the back (70-74 gear inches). For proper offroading, you might want to go lower still.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ciar?n]

Karma for you all, all this information.

Stupid pushbikes are meant to be simple lol =(
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[Simple]

If only,
I just bought a set of second hand forks for my mtb, they cost more than a second hand pair of forks for the r1!
____________________
Insta - FemFeral

[stinkwheel]

[Ciar?n]

Just bumping up this thread.

Got my rear wheel repaired after it buckled when i cased a jump.

I got a 32 front, 4 hole, and a 16tooth rear.

I wanna go 30, maybe 28 in the front. (on 24's btw)

Just finding it a tad confusing attempting to order the front sprocket/chainring online.

Anyone point out what i need on www.chainreactioncycles.com or something?

Sorry i'm a noob, more karma ready


Edit: It's this crank, but 32 tooth i guess

https://www.probike.ro/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/r/u/ruktion2.jpg
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[neil.]

Sheldon Brown is a cycling guru, heed his advice.
____________________
CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)

[Damon]

[Ciar?n]

Oi, thread jackers lol.

Help me find a bloody chainring for my turdy bike.

From what i can figure.

I need an 104mm 22t, 24t,26t,28t

I'll try any.

I just wanna get out there and thrash it again.
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[stinkwheel]

They go down to a 22t truvativ fitting in THIS ONE.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Noxious89123]

Won't you need to change the length of the chain too though? As there is no derailleur tensioning the chain like on a geared bike. Unless of course you make the front / back, smaller / bigger in proportion to each other. So gain 1 tooth and the back, lose one at the front?

I am just speculating though, so don't quote me on that!
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'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi

[stinkwheel]

[Ciar?n]

Cheers stink, again your a legend, and a dumb question, but will this one fit?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17734
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,

[Ciar?n]

Answer to that is a simple no lol
____________________
22/8/08 A2 Passed! Full License Biatch!
Past: Suzuki CS50, Gilera Ice 50, Gilera Runner 125SP, CBR 600 F2, CBR600 F4i, CBR 600RR5,