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CB500 problems...(electrical fault)

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PostPosted: 18:21 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: CB500 problems...(electrical fault) Reply with quote

It won't start.Turn on the ignition key and nothing happens,no oil light,neutral light e.t.c. nothing.

All fuses are fine (actually checked them properly with multimeter).
So does anyone know what would cause the ignition lights not to come on?
Been on with it all day stripping down the ignition switch and testing for continuity on all the wiring but everything seems to be perfect!

If the starter relay was flucked would that cause the above?

I've attached the wiring diagram if someone could have a look and give me some clues on what to do Laughing i'm really hopeless with wiring.

Thanks
Dave
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27cows
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, obvious but I'll say it - you've checked that the battery has charge and hasn't gone flat? And that battery wires aren't damaged & main earth is OK?
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup,checked all that.it did start up at first but then died because i forgot to put the choke on,then when i pressed the starter again it was just about to start but then made a loud click and that's when everything just went dead!
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it might possibly have burned something out.
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

But what though?
I tested the starter selanoid as it say's in the manual (see attached)
First test is removing the wire that goes to the starter,no click.
Then it say's run a live and earth to two of the connectors with the selanoid off the bike which i did and it clicked.
Then the third test say's to test for voltage between two other terminals while pressing the starter button which i did and it showed no voltage.
I'm just not sure if the starter relay being broke would cause the ignition lights to not work Question

The whole bike just seems dead,there's absolutely nothing going to the ignition system just as if the main fuse was broke,but all the fuses are absolutely fine.

One live goes to the ignition switch which then shares that live with two other wires when you turn the key.Well mine isn't sharing that power.
I tryed bridging them manually and still nothing.
I'm not very good at explaining things in writing which doesn't help Laughing
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27cows
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the starter was kaput, that wouldn't affect the ignition lights etc.

Have you tried bypassing the fuses?
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ThoughtContro...
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure you've checked the Main 30A fuse?

In your wiring diagram its shown in with the starter relay. If its gone then the red wire from the starter relay which goes to fuses 2, 3 and 4 via the ignition switch would be at 0V so you'd get no lights or anything. I'd double check that first

If its still good run a connectivity check from the starter relay out (red connection) to your fuses (red black connection) with the ignition switch ON.

If you've been buggering about with the ignition connections I'd mainly suspect you've created a short which has blown the main fuse near the relay. If so, then bypassing the fuse is a bad idea as at best you'll just drain and/or ruin your battery, at worst things could get very hot. Your fuse is a safety measure, bypassing em with six inch nails and bits of coke cans isnt usually a bright idea. I'd really want to know what blew a 30A fuse first.

Other than that, the red or red/black connection wire could have come loose or failed internally somewhere.

Just a guess.
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

27cows wrote:
If the starter was kaput, that wouldn't affect the ignition lights etc.

Cheers that pretty much rules out the starter relay being broke...

27cows wrote:
Have you tried bypassing the fuses?


No but there's no live getting to the fuses.They get there live from the ignition switch but that's something else i don't understand.
Theres 3 wires on the back of it; one being the red that comes from the starter relay.
Looking at the wiring diagram that red wire connects to the blue/grey and red/black when the key is turned which would allow it to send power to the fusebox.For some reason that's not happening.
So i decided to connect the red to the other two myself using a bit of spare wire to bridge all three wires (doing the job of the ignition key manually) but it still didn't bring up any ignition lights,although i didn't check that power was at the fuses while i had it bridged (but you'd imagine it would have had to since that solid red wire is definately live)

I stripped the full ignition switch down and cleaned all the connectors so there's no reason why it shouldn't be working as it's a really simple design (spring loaded connectors which bridge all 3 wires when the key is turned)

ThoughtControl wrote:
Are you sure you've checked the Main 30A fuse?

Yup.I done a continuity check on it and i also replaced it with another to double check.


ThoughtControl wrote:
Other than that, the red or red/black connection wire could have come loose or failed internally somewhere.

Just a guess.


I did a continuity test on most all these main wires and there all doing there job.


Stupid bikes Sad
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

you need to unplug the ignition switch and test the wires in there (bike side of the plug, not switch side).

The red wire/terminal should be permanent live and give you 12v.

If you don't then it is a break somewhere between the +ve terminal and the ignition red ...

If you do have 12v, next, short out the red and the red/back with a bit of wire or a bent paperclip. If everything lights up, it is your ignition switch.
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

sometimes you get false readings with certain equipments attatched. maybe try unplugging the links closest to where your testing and see if it makes a difference. cant tell that anything would be causing you issues according to the diagram. i was looking for an ignition relay but cant see one. if your fuses are good it should be fine unless theres a break in the cable or a poor ground connection
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:


If you do have 12v, next, short out the red and the red/back with a bit of wire or a bent paperclip. If everything lights up, it is your ignition switch.

I did that and still no lights.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

check your earth. if your getting no voltage anywhere and you know the battery is good then there must be no return path for the electricity.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Truxx wrote:
Blue_SV650S wrote:


If you do have 12v, next, short out the red and the red/back with a bit of wire or a bent paperclip. If everything lights up, it is your ignition switch.

I did that and still no lights.


Doh, that will teach me not to read all the replies fully Embarassed

You just have to keep tracing round the +ve circuit until you get a zero reading ...

Oh and I agree you haven't checked the -ve side/earth!!

Oh and don't rule things out too quickly .... just coz you are getting a voltage, doesn't mean it can carry any current!! Wink
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 02 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the reply's Thumbs Up

I'll have to try to get my tiny brain round it which after all this whisky will not be easy Embarassed

I was thinking about the earths today but the battery's main earth goes straight to the starter motor mounting bolt which i checked (after stripping down the starter motor just incase lol ) so it shouldn't be a problem.
The wioring of a bike is a bit different to wiring a plug unfortunately Crying or Very sad

Cheers anyway i'll read all the reply's properly when i sober up Thumbs Up
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 02:12 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.
check the voltage at the starter relay both sides of the main fuse.
if its 12v both sides of the main fuse then,

2. with the ignition on! check the voltage in the fuse box it should be 12v
both sides of the fuse. if so check the fuse box plug , if not its your ignition switch check the voltage there




my money is on the main fuse
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

IGNORE THIS POST BLONDE MOMENT...


Ok,
Tested across the terminals where the fuse goes (without fuse in) and i get 12v.
Test it with the fuse in and i get no voltage???

The fuse is showing continuity and i have tried 3 different fuses (all brand new) with the same results.


All the blue wires are just bridging the relay to the connector block as you can't get to the fuse with the connector plugged on properly.

So does this simply mean that the relay is broke?
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Last edited by ---- on 18:56 - 04 May 2010; edited 2 times in total
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Truxx wrote:
Ok,
Tested across the terminals where the fuse goes (without fuse in) and i get 12v.
Test it with the fuse in and i get no voltage???

The fuse is showing continuity and i have tried 3 different fuses (all brand new) with the same results.


All the blue wires are just bridging the relay to the connector block as you can't get to the fuse with the connector plugged on properly.

So does this simply mean that the relay is broke?


Dude, looking at those pics you are doing it wrong!! Wink

One would not expect you to pick up a voltage fuse in when you are doing it like that!

You need to be testing the live wire/terminals with the red probe and the black probe on the -ve of the battery (later tests is to try the black to the frame).

Fuse in, black on -ve, red on red wire at uncoupled ignition switch (bike side) what do you get?
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry i tested that wrong...

With the negative probe on a good earth and the positive probe on each side of the main fuse i get 12 volts.

Then i test with the positive probe on both sides of each fuse in the fuse box and it only shows 1volt at the fuse box.

I'm goinna go remove the ignition switch again and have another go at bridging across that...
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PostPosted: 12:30 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noticed where i went wrong there blue Laughing i'm hungover Embarassed

Away to remove the ignition switch again now...
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok.

The red wire at the back of the ignition switch is only showing about 1 volt with the ignition on...
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It shows 12v with the ignition switched off Confused
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just unplugged the ignition switch altogether and joined the red wire to the red/black wire on the bike end of the wiring plug but still no ignition lights.

Now i'm guessing it has to be an earth problem?
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Truxx wrote:
Just unplugged the ignition switch altogether and joined the red wire to the red/black wire on the bike end of the wiring plug but still no ignition lights.

Now i'm guessing it has to be an earth problem?


Yep, sounds like a high resistance joint/ 'black wire'* job to me! Thumbs Up

*I am not talking about insulation here, I am talking about the copper wires turning black.
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

How the hell am i meant to find this fault? If i wasn't allready baldy i definately would be now!

The red from the starter relay is live but soon as the ignition is switched on it goes dead.

The only earth's on the bike are the one next to the regulator and the main one straight from the battery -ve to the starter motor mounting bolt.
Both of these earth's are fine.

I've by-passed the clutch,side stand and kill switches .
The green/red wire from the relay goes through the diode(that's working) then the clutch switch then branches off one end into the ICU and the other through the side stand switch and then branches off through most of the various lights,indi relay e.t.c. finally to the earth on the mounting bolt of the regulator.
A continuity check between this green/red at the starter relay to the earth point is good and also to the ICU connector is good so that circuit must be good!

Then there's the yellow/red wire from the relay which goes through the starter switch then through the coils and into the ICU. Again i'm getting continuity from one end to the other.

Soo assuming it's a dry joint somewhere (so i'm getting continuity but it can't let enough amps through) how would i go about finding that?

This is now two full day's of testing and still nothing. I'm still convinced it's the starter relay to blame but it's pointless just buying loads of parts in the hope of fixing the problem...
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 03 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Truxx wrote:

Soo assuming it's a dry joint somewhere (so i'm getting continuity but it can't let enough amps through) how would i go about finding that?


By bypassing chunks of the loom at a time with a bit of new wire until the problem area is isolated ...
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