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Remove gasket/Hylomar?

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snowdude2004
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Remove gasket/Hylomar? Reply with quote

My bike is broken down at the moment and going through various checks. I have now come to a stand still as I need to remove my cylinder head.

Around the cylinder head there is some blue like stuff with a couple of tiny drips around the edge. Looking around the net I guessed that this stuff was probably Hylormar.

I've undone all the bolts and took out a stud because the bolt was rusted on the stud. Now its all done I'm trying to pull it off and am having no luck, so far I have tried cutting around the edge with a small blade and managed to get some off however I'm still not able to pry the bugger off.

Any ideas of how I can get this bastard thing off?
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CBT passed: 26/09/09, Theory Passed: 18/08/10, Mod 1 passed: 20/10/10, Mod 2 passed: 26/10/10.
Current Bike: Honda CBR 400 Nc23
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would check all the bolts are free first. Make sure there are no hidden ones.
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Damon
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with allymoss on this one. The liquid gasket shouldn't stop you getting the cylinder head off at all. Its only there to provide a seal.
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Damon
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with allymoss on this one. The liquid gasket shouldn't stop you getting the cylinder head off at all. Its only there to provide a seal.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What engine is it? Hylomar won't cause a head to be stuck on but a rusted head bolt most definately can.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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snowdude2004
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the engine is a derbi one from a derbi gpr50, I've already checked around the whole head and there isnt any bolts still attached what so ever, there are only 4 main studs and then 2 bolts that go onto the head and thats it.
____________________
CBT passed: 26/09/09, Theory Passed: 18/08/10, Mod 1 passed: 20/10/10, Mod 2 passed: 26/10/10.
Current Bike: Honda CBR 400 Nc23
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh, Derbi 50 only had 4 main bolts.

I would say just whack it tbh, the head on that is pretty sturdy and if it breaks, they are only a few quid for a second hand one on ebay.
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snowdude2004
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

allymoss wrote:
Yeh, Derbi 50 only had 4 main bolts.

I would say just whack it tbh, the head on that is pretty sturdy and if it breaks, they are only a few quid for a second hand one on ebay.


As in whack it with a hammer on the side and risk bending the studs? Neutral
____________________
CBT passed: 26/09/09, Theory Passed: 18/08/10, Mod 1 passed: 20/10/10, Mod 2 passed: 26/10/10.
Current Bike: Honda CBR 400 Nc23
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

snowdude2004 wrote:
allymoss wrote:
Yeh, Derbi 50 only had 4 main bolts.

I would say just whack it tbh, the head on that is pretty sturdy and if it breaks, they are only a few quid for a second hand one on ebay.


As in whack it with a hammer on the side and risk bending the studs? Neutral


No, using a screwdriver on the edge and whacking it upwards.
TBH, whacking it on the side will free it up way before you start bending those studs.
Just put some force onto it. If those 4 nuts on top are off then there is nothing else apart from corrosion and sealant holding it on.

Try putting the spark plug back in and using that to lever it off if you get what I mean.
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snowdude2004
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll go give it another attempt I suppose. At one side of the cylinder where its on the same side as the engine manifold it looks like its actually molded together, guess its whacky whacky time now then.
____________________
CBT passed: 26/09/09, Theory Passed: 18/08/10, Mod 1 passed: 20/10/10, Mod 2 passed: 26/10/10.
Current Bike: Honda CBR 400 Nc23
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snowdude2004
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I'm back, screwdriver will not fit at all so gave it a couple of taps around the edges and now im getting a little tiny bit of movement side to side but it still doesnt want to go anywhere. It feels as if its stuck near the temperature sensor now.

EDIT

Finally got it off had to scrape some metal off and shove a blade in near the back since the metal had joined slightly from rust.

Cheers for your help guys, much appreciated.
____________________
CBT passed: 26/09/09, Theory Passed: 18/08/10, Mod 1 passed: 20/10/10, Mod 2 passed: 26/10/10.
Current Bike: Honda CBR 400 Nc23
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good. Well done. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't really ought to use a screwdriver between the gap between the head & barrel. The head gasket seal does rely on those surfaces having no bumps in them, which you'll surely put by levering in there with a screwdriver.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 09 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
You shouldn't really ought to use a screwdriver between the gap between the head & barrel. The head gasket seal does rely on those surfaces having no bumps in them, which you'll surely put by levering in there with a screwdriver.


I am not sure if this is right but the head gasket is rubber on these like an O ring. AN internal one round the cylinder and then another round the edge for coolant and it isn't right on the edge.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even so, it's bad practice to use a screwdriver in the gap. Many heads have special tabs on them for levering against.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

personally would have had the engine out, laid it down, block of wood and a mallet, tapping round the outside of it.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 04:45 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Even so, it's bad practice to use a screwdriver in the gap. Many heads have special tabs on them for levering against.


& a screwdriver is NOT the correct tool... Rolling Eyes
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did I say it was?
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Damon
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Even so, it's bad practice to use a screwdriver in the gap. Many heads have special tabs on them for levering against.


& a screwdriver is NOT the correct tool... Rolling Eyes


Nope this is...

https://evergreen-rentals.com/images/sledgehammer.jpg
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