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riding in the rain

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mikojh
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Joined: 24 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: riding in the rain Reply with quote

I posted a week or so ago about a problem when riding in the rain after so long the bike would chug as if it is was running out of petrol, in 3rd and fourth gear, this only happens when it is wet it has now happened again this morning so it definently isnt a problem thats going to go away. Switching the fuel tap to reserve seemed to nullify the problem however i didnt try that this time round instead i just ragged all of gears. I have recently changed the spark plug as well. Not too sure what it could be. It also idles and starts perfectly and doesnt cut out just mass loss of power in 3rd and 4th gear.

Suzuki EN125

is it ever unheard of of buying a spark plug which is dodgy the problem seems to have been only since then as i remember one time coming in soaked and not having that problem on the old spark plug.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's cheap enough to get another and a good idea to have a spare anyway.
I'd be suspecting insulation break down on HT lead (from plug to coil) if that don't fix it - again not hugely expensive to renew.
Temporary fix would be spray with WD40 or similar.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll cost you about £2.50 to find out if that's the problem.

More likely the plug cap and lead though.
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could a dodgy spark plug behave in this way?

How tight should a spark plug be ive basically tightened it just past finger tight.

What doesnt make sense is the revs in second gear are perfect chuggy in 3rd and sort of fine in fourth doesnt make any sense. Also switching the fuel tap to reserve gets rid of the problem, baffled. so i dont think its the lead.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

An Auld Army Trick:
1) Start the bike in a darkened place. Garage/Kitchen with the light out.
2) Look for High Tension Electrical Current Tracking from lead, plug cap or both.
3)Then... Spray with WD40 and see if it goes away.

4) If it goes away then replace the Lead and the Cap.

Note:- Do not touch the lead or cap when the engine is running or you will get a Kick. It will stop your pacemaker/fcuk up your Swatch. Sad
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

spray the plug and the cap inside or out?

bikes only 3 years old with 6k on the clock so seems a bit odd given the age for problems like this, bike may have been in storage for while as well. As the starter was wierd until i took it for a good ride.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikojh wrote:
Could a dodgy spark plug behave in this way?

How tight should a spark plug be ive basically tightened it just past finger tight.

What doesnt make sense is the revs in second gear are perfect chuggy in 3rd and sort of fine in fourth doesnt make any sense. Also switching the fuel tap to reserve gets rid of the problem, baffled. so i dont think its the lead.


Yes a dodgy plug can cause it but you changed it... Didn't you???

Tighten 1/2 a turn after you get it finger tight. Should be as-near-as-fcuk-it.
The tightness in the head can affect the heat transfer through the plug. This is critical to keep the plug cool or it may pre-ignite the air-fuel mixture. (Knocking or Pinking)
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

1/2 a turn feels like it would snap the plug.ive tightened like 3ml past finger tight, front and back bulbs have blown seems my problems are just beginning...
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

RTFB. (Read The Fcuking Book) To get specific torque for your bike. It states on the NGK box how to tighten. Not sure about Boch etc.

FOR A NEW 'UNUSED' PLUG!

The correct torque should allow the washer to deform and make a good seal and stretch/flex the threads enough to keep tension on the plug and make good mechanical contact between the plug and the head. This should be just before you reach the elastic limit of the material. That is the point where the metal will not return to normal shape when tension is removed.
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

OBVIOUSLY

<-----NOT A CLUE.

ive just put it past finger tight as it is a used plug and not a new one. When i first put it in i did the same and yeah it does say 1/2 a turn on the box, do it anyway even if its stiff as a bitch?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikojh wrote:
OBVIOUSLY

<-----NOT A CLUE.

ive just put it past finger tight as it is a used plug and not a new one. When i first put it in i did the same and yeah it does say 1/2 a turn on the box, do it anyway even if its stiff as a bitch?


FINGER TIGHT: means using only one's fingers to turn the plug until it stops turning.
Then turn 1/2 a turn using the plug spanner. Smile

I do not think you have a plug torque issue. You more than likely have an ignition problem.
I still say you and the bike need to go for a short time to a darkened room together.
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it be safe to do 1/2 turn to a used plug, I've done 1/4 of a turn and compared to what it was like its a lot tighter gonna see if theres any difference next time its wet.

Last edited by mikojh on 22:44 - 10 May 2010; edited 2 times in total
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikojh wrote:
Would it be safe to do 1/2 turn to a used plug, I've done 1/4 of a turn and compared to what it was like its a lot tighter gonna see if theres any difference next time its wet.


No. A used plug will already have the sealing washer deformed so you only need to give it 1/3 or less. (Edited)

Plugs are not really blootered up dead tight. The plug key has a shitey short handle to prevent over tightening by gorillas.

Forget plug torque and look for HT spark leagage from the plug lead or cap.
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Last edited by Walloper on 22:45 - 10 May 2010; edited 1 time in total
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Helibatics
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. 1/2 a turn is the spec for a new washer. Once it's deformed after the first installation that's it. Plugs aren't tightened very tightly really. Try to borrow a torque wrench if you're concerned.

Check the ignition system first. The chances of a bad plug are usually very low.
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 10 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ill do your test tomoz as its a bit late now doubt the neighbours would appreciate me starting my bike in my hallway haha.
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mikojh
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would seem the inlet manifold has got a slight tear in it just after where the seal connects to the cylinder head, do you think ive nailed the problem? got a new on on the way so hopefully thats it.

Is it safe to put a bit of wd40 on it for now.
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