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steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 21 May 2010    Post subject: MOT question Reply with quote

im MOTing the mito tomorrow hopefully. just a few things i want to ask beforehand

as i dont have all the brackets for the panels yet i dont want to put on the bellypan or sides as i think they might not hold on. so because of that ill need to attatch the front indicators to the headlight bracket. they may be considered to be slightly obscured by the front fairing now. so if i remove this i cant have any wing mirrors.

ive read that you dont actually need wing mirrors to pass the MOT and is this document
https://www.transport...lsandguides.htm
i cant see wing mirrors even mentioned.

so would it pass?

also the front brake, although it feels soft i have actually locked it up. the lever travels to the bar but after inspecting the pads it seems they are only bedding in on the outer edges so far so are only touching the disc on less than 50% of the surface. could i convince the MOT tester they are still bedding in? as far as i know the disc is still within limits.

other than that, i think everything else on the bike is good to go apart from the rear brake lever not springing back. but i 'aquired' a spring today that ill be bodging on to help sort that out :thumbsup:

anyone think it'll fail as it is? or does it depend who tests it?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 21 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

No mirrors required.

They may well not like the fact that the lever comes back to the bars. Sponginess and inadequate reserve travel are both fails.
Quote:
In the case of hydraulic systems, fully apply the control twice, first slowly and then rapidly, each time to a point where sustained pressure can be held and check for creep and sponginess.

Sounds to me like you can't hold them at a point where there is sustained pressure => fail.

I find it odd that only half the pad is touching the disc. I've changed a lot of brake pads on bikes and never had part of the pad standing away from the disc before, even after having just fitted them.

I'd go so far as to suggest there is either a stuck piston or the pads are in wrong. Are the pads slotted into the calliper fully?

Check both pistons are moving when you pull the brake.

Having checked that, I'd probably bleed some fresh brake fluid through then bungee the lever down to the bar for an hour or so to try to remove any air bubbles that couild be causing a loss of pressure.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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oldbiker
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 15 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 21 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to agree with stinkwheel.

Bad breaks = Fail
Mirrors not required.

If you have any doubt about a safety item get it sorted
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steven_191
Nearly there...



Joined: 31 May 2009
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 21 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pads are touching on the inside and outside from the centre of the disc. It's an old disc and new pads. Brand new fluid. Bled about 4 or 5 times now. Changed the caliper, master cylinder and line and still the same. Might steal the whole evo system and the disc to be safe.
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