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Prepping metal for paint?

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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 24 May 2010    Post subject: Prepping metal for paint? Reply with quote
I have some satin black hammerite and the radiators aswel as the brackets and oil cooler need to be sprayed.
The question i need the wisdom well of bcf to help me with is this.
I bought some sandpaper from halfords ages ago and it ranges from p80 to p1000 i think, what sandpaper grade do i need to go from p80 to?
Thanks guys i really appreciate it. Thumbs Up Very Happy
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Walloper
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Joined: 24 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 24 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
It should be 'Wet and Dry' you are using not Sand Paper (Which is supposed to be called Glass Paper cause it is glass that is used as the abrasive).
Wet and Dry is made using carborundum as the abrasive which is the 2nd hardest substance known. It is wet or dry because the adhesive and paper backing is waterproof. Sandpaper/Glass paper is not waterproof and turns to mush is wetted.

Go to Halfrauds and look at the body repair kits. The procedure is on there.
Or Google Respraying Metal and you will find where someone has written it all out for you previously.
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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 24 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
I know i have wet and dry, but i need to know how smooth am i making the metal so it takes the paint for best effect.
They get alot of weather so want to get a good result really.
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badas
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 24 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
i got told not to spray my radiator as it could cause over heating.

not sure how true this is but sounds logical, your insulating thin strips of metal so making it harder for heat to escape....
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 13 May 2010
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PostPosted: 06:43 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
badas wrote:
i got told not to spray my radiator as it could cause over heating.

not sure how true this is but sounds logical, your insulating thin strips of metal so making it harder for heat to escape....


I would not worry about this, as long as you're painting it black it ought to be a problem, black radiates heat faster, that's why radiators are usually black to begin with. I have a black exhaust on one of my 250's, cools faster than the chrome one on the other.
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 08:10 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hammerite tends to stick to rough, rusty metal best. It is after all sold as something to paint over rust after wire brushing. I hammerited my frame, and it has chipped off the really smooth bits quite fast.

Stinkwheel recommended plasti-cote black for engine casings, and he took it back to smooth metal first and achieved a decent finish.

To take it back to smooth, I use emery paper and wire wool to remove rust and then 600 grit wet and dry to make it smooth. Sandpaper just scratches the surface without doing much of a job of removing the rust and crap.
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 13 May 2010
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
I must admit when I paint anything I like as rough a surface as reasonable to be sure the paint keys in well. Then if I want it smoother I'd cut it back with fine wet and dry and water with some car shampoo in it, if you can find one that doesn't have wax in too. It's been a while since I've bothered to be honest, my bikes are so old now I'm happy just to keep the rust and bay and keep them tidy.
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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Robby wrote:
Hammerite tends to stick to rough, rusty metal best. It is after all sold as something to paint over rust after wire brushing. I hammerited my frame, and it has chipped off the really smooth bits quite fast.

Stinkwheel recommended plasti-cote black for engine casings, and he took it back to smooth metal first and achieved a decent finish.

To take it back to smooth, I use emery paper and wire wool to remove rust and then 600 grit wet and dry to make it smooth. Sandpaper just scratches the surface without doing much of a job of removing the rust and crap.

Thats what i have, fine grit wet and dry and hammerite satin black paint, so are you saying i should use 260 grit wet and dry, primer, then spray?
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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
hondapartsman wrote:


I would not worry about this, as long as you're painting it black it ought to be a problem, black radiates heat faster, that's why radiators are usually black to begin with. I have a black exhaust on one of my 250's, cools faster than the chrome one on the other.

My rads will be painted satin hammerite black? Will this cause me big problems?
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
TUG wrote:
hondapartsman wrote:


I would not worry about this, as long as you're painting it black it ought to be a problem, black radiates heat faster, that's why radiators are usually black to begin with. I have a black exhaust on one of my 250's, cools faster than the chrome one on the other.

My rads will be painted satin hammerite black? Will this cause me big problems?


I would have though Hammerite would be thick for I rad, I wouldn;t use it personally.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'll just use some heat dispersant paint from work then on the rads. Unless anybody here has used it on a rad to no overheating problems?
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 13 May 2010
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
TUG wrote:
I'll just use some heat dispersant paint from work then on the rads. Unless anybody here has used it on a rad to no overheating problems?


Might be a good idea, I can't advise on painting rads, all my bikes are air cooled. I used fireplace paint on my exhaust though, lasting well so far.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
TUG wrote:
Thats what i have, fine grit wet and dry and hammerite satin black paint, so are you saying i should use 260 grit wet and dry, primer, then spray?


320 dry (the white stuff) or about 400 wet (the black stuff).

They actually sell (rattlecan) radiator paint, it's like black water. I wouldn't use hammerite on the rad
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 25 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Heat dispersant paint on the Rads then, I should of worked out that its too thick for a rad really.
Thanks alot guys, im going to de-rust my brackets, primer them after 400 gritting them and paint the satin black. Thumbs Up
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 02:38 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
TUG wrote:
Thanks alot guys, im going to de-rust my brackets, primer them after 400 gritting them and paint the satin black. Thumbs Up


A few seconds in a beadblaster is LOT easier...
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ms51ves3
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Joined: 07 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
chris-red wrote:
I would have though Hammerite would be thick for I rad, I wouldn;t use it personally.


I'm assuming he's using it out of a spray can meaning it won't be that thick.

I used Hammerite BBQ paint on my dad's RD250 engine with good results:

https://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/ms51ves3/DSCF1734.jpg

https://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/ms51ves3/DSCF1731.jpg

It was just VHT paint in a Hammerite can.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 26 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
OK but compare the thickness of those fins to a radiator.

https://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/images/KAW2010Rwm.jpg


Bit of a difference
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
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