Avoiding Exhaust Stud Woes...

[NickD]

.... Yeah I know, get someone else to do it!

Unfortunately that's a little beyond me financially, as we're in the process of buying a flat.... as it taking the bike in to have studs drilled out if I mess up..

So how do I not mess up?

I've got the replacement headers, gaskets etc, and I've got the fairing lowers and cans off already. I don't really need the bike until the Shires Show in a couple of weekends time, so I can take my time.

I don't remember having a problem before, but I've not done this for a while, and never on an inline 4, and I keep reading horror stories of engines having to come out of the frame to have studs dri9lled out, and big bills.

So, what can I do to minimise the risk of stripped threads?
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I was only doing what it said on my licence officer....
Tear along the dotted line!

[Paxovasa]

Warm the engine slightly and use plenty penetrating spray
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Suzuki GSF600 K3 (in the fastest colour, black).

[chris-red]

It's not a case of messing up some of them just get stuck, it's pretty much pot luck IMO.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[stinkwheel]

Feed them penetrating oil regularly for the next few days.

So plusgas, 3 in1 spray penetrant, duck oil and the like rather than WD40 which isn't a penetrating oil.

Use a good quality socket and breaker bar on them. The fewer extension bars between the handle and the socket, the better you'll be able to "feel" if it's about to break.

I usually use a 1/4" drive breaker bar on them. It gives good feedback and it's harder to apply too much force without realising you are doing so.

If there are plastics or the radiator in the way, beter to remove them to get a good view of what you are doing and a straight turn on the nut.

It has occurred to me before to whizz a nut in half with a cutting burr if it looks hopelessley rusted althought I've never tried.

Order in some brass nuts to fit the new exhaust with. They a) Shouldn't seize in the first place and b) If they do, they should strip out before the stud snaps.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[DrDonnyBrago]

[Raffles]

[DrDonnyBrago]

Supposing you could fit one in, any reason not to?

[Raffles]

[gmanxiii]

Becareful overtightening the nut splitter though, i used one recently to take off the foglamps on my car which had the nuts corroded on. Overtightened the splitter and it started cutting into the bolt itself! When took the downpipes off mine i replaced them with brass nuts and new studs from stinkwheels suggestion, think I ordered them off sickpups shop on ebay.
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I kills hondas

VFR400NC30 > ZZR600 > CBR600FX > CBR1000rr

[DrDonnyBrago]

[gmanxiii]

I didn't use a nut splitter on the downpipes just regular spanner, as i removed them they were seized onto the the nut themselves and came out all the way. They all came out except 2 which snapped. I just ended up getting them drilled out and heli-coiled by a local mechanic. What i did do though was replace them with slightly wider studs which are hopefully stronger (stock studs on the CBR if i remember correctly was M8 at one end and M7 on the nut end, replaced with a stud that was M8 on both).

[edit] I'd imagine if you used a nut spliter (correctly ) then there would be no need to take the studs out, just replace the nuts with brass ones.
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I kills hondas

VFR400NC30 > ZZR600 > CBR600FX > CBR1000rr

[gmanxiii]

I've got sickpup as a saved seller on ebay but it looks like hes not got anything for sale at the moment. Not sure if he is still trading.
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I kills hondas

VFR400NC30 > ZZR600 > CBR600FX > CBR1000rr

[.....]

[gmanxiii]

[.....]

Doh, didn't see the other link, but my link seems to be dead anyway. Having said that, anyone seen Sickpup about recently?

[ZRX61]

Soak the studs in a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix every day for a week or so before attempting to remove the nuts.
Just put it on when ya done riding for the day so it has all night to soak in...pref when the engine has cooled..
& apply again each morning before ya start the bike..

[Stalk]

Just done this on Mrs Stalk's CBR. If your bike is not air cooled it is probably best to remove the radiator. See if you can borrow a MAPP gas powered blowtorch (yellow gas canister) Try to undo the nuts first (I got 3 of 8 straight off). Any doubt heat the nuts up with the blowtorch until they are red hot (Here is the saftey lecture bit about flames and petrol) Remove heat and attempt to turn nut. If it loosens and then goes tight than it may be a case of working the nut back and forth untill it is free. Allow plenty of time, Took me 3 hours of twidling but saved all the studs and they had been on for 11 years.

If you have access to a die it is worth cleaning up the stud threads once they are cool. As the studs are alkward to get at you cad turn the die wirh a pair of long nosed pliers once you have started it in the thread. Bit of oil will make this easier.

Please note that this is the way that I did it. It may not be the way that others would do it. It is your choice to decide which way is best for you.

You near Northampton?
Good Luck
Cheers
Stalk

[temeluchus]

Ive gotten into the habit o doing the first attempt at undoing with an impact driver, as this often gets things moving without snapping anything.

Worth trying if you can get a socket on it before geting out the breaker bars.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[NickD]

Cheers all!

I've had a number of people tell me about Plus Gas.... I shall head out and find some tomorrow.

@ Stalk - I'm not near Northampton, but cheers anyway. It's a Blackbird, and having looked at it I reckon I'll get away with just undoing the radiator mounts and tying it out of the way. Looks like the nuts are closed-ended too, so the thread isn't crusted with crap.... God bless Honda!
____________________
I was only doing what it said on my licence officer....
Tear along the dotted line!

[stinkwheel]

[NickD]

I'm hoping for the same Stinks. I've had a look by torchlight (it was dark by the time I'd got the plastics off) and the nuts are blind at the ends and look to be brass maybe... either way there's no crusty knackered threads sticking out behind them.

Plus, everything else I've ever done to it has turned out to be half as hard as expected.... Hopefully I'm in luck!
____________________
I was only doing what it said on my licence officer....
Tear along the dotted line!

[alun111]

sorry to cut across you but does anyone know if close ended nuts can be had for my hornet 600 exhaust studs? Cheers
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Summer: '00 Honda CB600F Hornet
Winter: '93 Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit VP Variable Valve
Past Bikes: Lifan LF100-5 Lifan LF125-A Honda C70

[ZRX61]

[Stelmer]

I've had to fit helicoils to all but 3 of my exhaust threads and I am very pleased with the outcome of that.

[NickD]

Well...

It took a few days and a bit of hacksaw jiggery-pokery thanks to Delkevic making really ill fitting replacement items (how hard can it be to weld a fucking lug in the right place, eh?), but between Honda build quality and PlusGas awesomeness all's fine and dandy.

Thanks for your help chaps!
____________________
I was only doing what it said on my licence officer....
Tear along the dotted line!