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Front sprocket nut

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Misc
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Front sprocket nut Reply with quote

Removed it fine a few days ago but must of done it up very tight. Can't remember what method i used but it's not budging. I've locked the rear wheel with a pole through the rear sprocket/frame, used the rear brake & other methods but it's not even moved. I've used an extension bar, put all my weight on the wrench & nothing.

This leads me to think i'm doing something wrong as i couldn't of done it up that tight. I know the sprocket is on some kind of riveted shaft so does the bike need to be in gear or neutral?


Here's a photo in case i missed something.

https://img34.imageshack.us/img34/4140/48679216.jpg
https://img571.imageshack.us/img571/1641/52774836.jpg

Bike's a Mk1 bandit.

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might have over-tightened it and ruined the threads. Or, you might be turning it the wrong way.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been turning it Anti-Clockwise. But if someone could clarify. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anti-clockwise is correct to un-do it.

Lefty loosey, righty tighty Very Happy
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Anti-clockwise is correct to un-do it.

Lefty loosey, righty tighty Very Happy


Cheers. Smile

I thought about investing in an impact wrench for problems like this. Is there a minimum price you should go for? Wouldn't want a low powered one.

First search brang up This. "350Nm torque" Sounds quite powerful.

I have a heat gun if that helps?
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Frost
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be a normal thread, but you can check by looking at the little bit poking out.

350nm = 36kg weight on a 1m socket wrench, or 120kg on a 300mm socket wrench, so thats going to require a long socket or an extension if its done up correctly, more otherwise.

From those pictures it looks like your using a socket that is gripping the corners. But i might be wrong.
Try and find one of these:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/tools/tools_6pt_socket_46mm_TMI9910M46_lg.jpg

So that it grips the flats, big socket wrench, take the slack out of the chain and smack it with a hammer and it should come loose. If that doesnt shift it your going to be in danger of fucking something up by applying more force. Might be worth getting a garage to get it off with an air gun.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's definitely not the socket. I had a good hold on it & put more then enough force & it still didn't budge, several times!

Can someone with a MK1 bandit tell me if there's something i'm missing?

That torque figure above was the impact wrench, not the bolt. Smile
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.....
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ride to a local mechanics/dealer/tyre place and ask them to blast it with a windy gun. Tighten it up again (not too tight) then ride home and undo it again.
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jay12329
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impact gun and/or freeze and release spray.
HTH
J
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rob c
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didnt bend the washer at the back of the nut up to lock it off did you by any chance?
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Misc
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not bent any washers no, just went straight on. Not going to take it too a shop until i've sorted the carbs. Only needed the sprocket off to change a seal so can probably wait now. Bloody bike!

Would this freeze and release spray work even tho it's no rusted?
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Misc
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the bump but hopefully buying an impact wrench tomorrow. See here Any thoughts on it? Would prefer an electrical one as i didn't know you needed other bits for the air operated ones.

Can i also use Halfords sockets on this?

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P.addy
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

id recommend not using a bar through the wheel forced onto the swing arm...
try getting someone to sit on the bike and hold the rear brake Wink
put the usual socket on there, spray lots of wd40 or other penetrating stuff, use a scaffold bar on the end of your socket wrench for more leverage... "should" come off a doddle!

whilst rebuilding my GS we found bolts had become so stiff a scaffold bar was needed, after minutes on 1 bolt, we added the bar..2 seconds and it was loose Laughing
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Misc
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
id recommend not using a bar through the wheel forced onto the swing arm...
try getting someone to sit on the bike and hold the rear brake Wink
put the usual socket on there, spray lots of wd40 or other penetrating stuff, use a scaffold bar on the end of your socket wrench for more leverage... "should" come off a doddle!

whilst rebuilding my GS we found bolts had become so stiff a scaffold bar was needed, after minutes on 1 bolt, we added the bar..2 seconds and it was loose Laughing


I tried an extension bar in the form of my weight lifting bar which is pretty big. She still didn't want to move! I did spray some WD40 before i put the bike away so will try again tomorrow, if no luck i'd appreciate some feedback on the above impact wrench as it will 'hopefully' come off easily with it.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Misc wrote:

I tried an extension bar in the form of my weight lifting bar which is pretty big. She still didn't want to move! I did spray some WD40 before i put the bike away so will try again tomorrow, if no luck i'd appreciate some feedback on the above impact wrench as it will 'hopefully' come off easily with it.


Did you try attaching it and giving a very sudden jerk upwards.. thats how we freed the rear spindle bolt Laughing
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Misc
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Misc wrote:

I tried an extension bar in the form of my weight lifting bar which is pretty big. She still didn't want to move! I did spray some WD40 before i put the bike away so will try again tomorrow, if no luck i'd appreciate some feedback on the above impact wrench as it will 'hopefully' come off easily with it.


Did you try attaching it and giving a very sudden jerk upwards.. thats how we freed the rear spindle bolt Laughing


Yup but because it's on the sprocket, any sudden jerk just moves with the sprocket as there always seems to be a few cm's of play.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Misc wrote:
##Paddy## wrote:
id recommend not using a bar through the wheel forced onto the swing arm...
try getting someone to sit on the bike and hold the rear brake Wink
put the usual socket on there, spray lots of wd40 or other penetrating stuff, use a scaffold bar on the end of your socket wrench for more leverage... "should" come off a doddle!

whilst rebuilding my GS we found bolts had become so stiff a scaffold bar was needed, after minutes on 1 bolt, we added the bar..2 seconds and it was loose Laughing


I tried an extension bar in the form of my weight lifting bar which is pretty big. She still didn't want to move! I did spray some WD40 before i put the bike away so will try again tomorrow, if no luck i'd appreciate some feedback on the above impact wrench as it will 'hopefully' come off easily with it.


If you are only going to use the impact wrench for this one job then you really ought to keep your money in your pocket. I recently had a similar problem whilst trying to remove the rotor retaining nut on one of my bikes. I tried all of the methods suggested above by Paddy but all were to no avail. I eventually swallowed my pride and took the bike round to the place where I buy all of my tyres from. They stuck their impact wrench on it and about 2 seconds later the nut was off. They told me not to feel bad as the local off-road motorcycle centre (Wakefield) often had to bring in their bikes for similar treatment.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Misc wrote:


Can i also use Halfords sockets on this?

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You should use impact grade sockets - these will generally be matt black rather than chromed. Halfords impact grade sockets will be fine, the hard chromed ones you get in a typical socket set might fracture. Whilst they are very hard they are also quite brittle.

I know people who use them anyway though and haven't had any explode on them yet.


As above though, a quick trip down the garage (if it is rideable) to use their airgun could save you 50 notes Thumbs Up .
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Misc
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Raffles/Donny.

Bike's not rideable yet, still got to find the petrol fault. Doh! Laughing
I wouldn't mind buying it for future use too or if i'm lazy.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weight lifting bar is 1.5 meters? so that air tool applies the same force as you hanging a 20kg weight on the end of that bar. Which is probably alot less force than you've put into it.
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Misc
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
Weight lifting bar is 1.5 meters? so that air tool applies the same force as you hanging a 20kg weight on the end of that bar. Which is probably alot less force than you've put into it.


It's about 3.5 foot (one half of it). Would of thought it would of been more force then that! That's pretty poor if that's correct. By the way, how did you work that out to 450nm?

What are my options then? Thumbs Up

I think my main problem is keeping the sprocket still. Even when the brake is applied there's still some play left.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blocking the rear wheel on the arm is uite acceptable. Use rag around the bar or use timber so as not to dent the arm. Once you have done this, you can put any amount of torque on the nut so long as the bike is held steady.

They do sometimes get very tight, I've had to use a terriffic amount of force to release one before.
____________________
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Misc
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Blocking the rear wheel on the arm is uite acceptable. Use rag around the bar or use timber so as not to dent the arm. Once you have done this, you can put any amount of torque on the nut so long as the bike is held steady.

They do sometimes get very tight, I've had to use a terriffic amount of force to release one before.


Thank you. And is it worth investing in some of this 'freeze spray'? Seems that most are for rust but wondering if it'd help my situation a bit?

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jay12329
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used freeze and release on my SV to undo lots of bits and bobs including the front sprocket nut. Doesn't have to be rusted for it to work, it just breaks the connection a bit allowing some of the penetrating oil in. Then hit it with an impact driver and it comes off.
My Nut took a couple of treatments and 2 full batteries of a impact driver! Then it wizzed off as though nothing was holding it on!

HTH
J
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Misc
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 31 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay12329 wrote:
I used freeze and release on my SV to undo lots of bits and bobs including the front sprocket nut. Doesn't have to be rusted for it to work, it just breaks the connection a bit allowing some of the penetrating oil in. Then hit it with an impact driver and it comes off.
My Nut took a couple of treatments and 2 full batteries of a impact driver! Then it wizzed off as though nothing was holding it on!

HTH
J


I'll get some today then. Hopefully i can get it loose with just the wrench/bar.

Thanks. Thumbs Up
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