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battery not charging?

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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: battery not charging? Reply with quote

Came to a junction today and bike just cut out and wouldnt start again. Pushed the bike home and charged the battery and then it started up but when revving the bike the headlight doesnt get brighter so presume the battery isnt getting charged on the bike ? On Tuesday I had a 150 mile ride without any problems so the battery should have been well charged. Any advice please ? Razz

Bike is a Hornet 600 1998

Tried going on the hornets nest but its broken at the moment Confused
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
My moneys on usual Honda Reg / rec faggotry. Put an Avo across the battery with the engine running and see if the voltage rises with revs (should peak about 14.5V).


This. Thumbs Up

It's a Honda. They can't make reg/recs for toffee.
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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, I'll borrow a volt meter tomorrow and test the battery. Ive had the rec/reg off and cleaned the connections and the earth but no difference. Mad
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a CBR rider, I look forward to the day where I am left stranded in the middle of fvcking nowhere with a busted R/R.

Can you fit one from a different bike?
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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
As a CBR rider, I look forward to the day where I am left stranded in the middle of fvcking nowhere with a busted R/R.

Can you fit one from a different bike?


luckily I wasnt far from home but it was still hard work pushing it lol. Ive no idea about fitting one from another bike, but there is plenty on ebay for the hornet.
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Cptn. Awesome
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some people I know with VFR400s had fitted R6 units I believe. Whether it's a straight swap or not I really don't know. On my VFR the reg/rec isn't the problem, it's the actual battery. Oh well, as soon as the fuel tap is done and I give it a good run out then I'll flog it.
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Freaky_1
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PostPosted: 09:06 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cptn. Awesome wrote:
Some people I know with VFR400s had fitted R6 units I believe. Whether it's a straight swap or not I really don't know. On my VFR the reg/rec isn't the problem, it's the actual battery. Oh well, as soon as the fuel tap is done and I give it a good run out then I'll flog it.


Correct. I know for a fact that the R1 is a pretty direct swap and would assume the same on the F6.

For a good write up on Reg/Rec, check out Dan's site (about half way down the page).
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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tested the battery with a multimeter and its showing 12v when the engine is on and revving up so looks like reg/rec has gone knackered Twisted Evil
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 13:59 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Also check the AC voltage into the RR. Not sure of the figures for the Hornet but it should be even more variable than the DC voltage over the battery. If the AC voltage is OK then it is probably the RR, if not then the generator itself. Also worth checking for continuity in the wires between the RR and the battery.

All the best

Keith
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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks keith i'll they that. Anyone know if a reg/rec off a 2001 hornet will be ok on 98 ?
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R6jonny
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Also check the AC voltage into the RR. Not sure of the figures for the Hornet but it should be even more variable than the DC voltage over the battery. If the AC voltage is OK then it is probably the RR, if not then the generator itself. Also worth checking for continuity in the wires between the RR and the battery.

All the best

Keith


Keith, any idea what the AC from the generator should be? I am having problems with my Triumph with the charging system....
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YZFR1IAN
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 3 yellow wires from my alternator to reg/rec were producing about 13v AC each at about 5000rpm so presume thats ok. My replacement reg/rec arrived today, i'll fit it when it stops raining Rolling Eyes
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Last edited by YZFR1IAN on 11:48 - 08 Jun 2010; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Afraid nothing that useful. Rarely quoted in manuals, but as an example on the old Aprilia 125s (2 wire generator) it was 45V ac over the generator wires at 4000rpm.

Check for continuity over the 3 wires. Resistance between any pair from the 3 should be the same.

All the best

Keith
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R6jonny
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im gonna show up my complete lack of knowledge here. How should i have the Multimeter set to test this properly??
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set it to read AC volts to check the readings straight off the generator. The AC setting should have an icon like V~. And you want to pick the correct range, so most likely 20. (Max of 20v)

To check DC (after the reg/rec) set it to 20, but on the DC area of the multi meter.

When my GS500 battery wouldn't charge, I did a whole load of multimeter pokery, it eventually turned out to be an extremely corroded connector near the starter solonoid. But I basically got a wiring diagram and checked continuity and volts at each point.

You should get about 14v from a working reg/rec. And in my case I was getting the proper amount of volts straight after the reg/rec, it just wasn't reaching the battery, and that's where the crappy connection came in.

I also replaced my Suzuki reg/rec with one from a Honda CX500.

Gaz
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:12 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Set it to ohms, ignition off, disconnect the block connector from the regulator / rectifier and find 3 wires coloured the same. Put a probes into 2 of those and get the reading from the multimeter. Then repeat with another pair of wires, and with the third pair (ie, if they were labelled 1,2 and 3, check with the probes on 1 and 2, then 1 and 3, then 2 and 3). Readings should be within a gnats of each other. Connect the connector back to the regulator / rectifier.

For voltage, set the multimeter for AC voltage (might well also mean connecting the probes to different ports on the multimeter). Slide the probes up on the back of the connector to the regulator rectifier to a pair of the same coloured wires (ie, one probe to one wire, other probe to another - DO NOT short out the wires). Check the voltage with the engine running, and that it goes up when revved. Expect it to be fairly high. Repeat for the other 2 pairs.

To be honest the generators themselves seem to be fairly tough. Only one we have had fail was on a GPZ500 where the magnets broke up on the flywheel and chopped one of the wires and this was obvious from just checking the resistance.

All the best

Keith
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R6jonny
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right i have tested the resistance.. the meter set to the 200 range.

between 2 pairs it was 0.5/0.5 ohms and between the other pair was 0.8/0.9... is this close enough or indicative of a problem?

The voltage appears fine. Similar figures between all pairs. Increases with revs.

Whats the best way to check the R/R itself... i read on another site about checking diodes but i didnt really understand it to be honest.

If it helps, the plug from the generator is 3 grey wires plugs into 3 yellow wires of the R/R

There is another plug from the R/R that has 2 red wires and 2 black w/ grey wires.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those resistance readings are fine.

You can test diodes, but you'll need to know where they are, and the polarity of them inside the reg/rec. And even then, they're notoriously difficult to test with any degree of accuracy. I had a diagram in front of me with my GS500 Reg/rec, and it tested with horrible results, yet the Reg/rec was absolutely fine.

After the reg/rec, you should have a positive cable. I would expect it to be red, and fairly thick. (Although it could be neither).

That's the place to check, and see if you're getting any/enough DC voltage.

It's difficult to give any more guidance without a photo of the wiring and/or a wiring diagram for the bike.

R6Johnny I take it you don't have 13v+ at the battery with the engine running?

Gaz
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

That is a bigger difference than I would expect on the resistance, but within reason and possible with just not making quite such a good connection with the probes.

While you might be able to check the regulator / rectifier directly, I have no figures for that. Normally if there is voltage going in and the voltage over the battery increases with revs (within reason) then the regulator / rectifier is fine.

The other wires I presume go to earth and the +ve side of the battery.

All the best

Keith
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R6jonny
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery shows 12.9v with the engine off. 12.5 with the engine running. Goes up a bit with revs but not as much as it should.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the R6/R1 r/r swaps, the usual thing to swap for is a Shindegen FH012AA unit.

Unlike all the old SCR regulators, that produce a lot of heat as a byproduct, this r/r uses MOSFET switching which runs much cooler/reliable....

If an r/r needs replacing then it would make sense to me to get a new, good design rather than replace it with the OEM SCR-type r/r's that were never a brilliant design to start with.

Someones swap here
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 13:09 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

That is way too low.

All the best

Keith
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R6jonny
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea what sort of voltage should come out of the regulator/rectifier??
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