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Honda VFR400 NC 30, Clutch Problem

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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Honda VFR400 NC 30, Clutch Problem Reply with quote

Question wondering if anyone can help me please.
recently my clutch started Dragging, so i checked the clutch
and needed new friction plates, i put my new friction plates in recently, and for some reason the clutch doesnt work at all? any ideas? then i tried again 30 minutes later, put it in first gear and the clutch 'Bit' but very late, then tried it in 2nd gear and it wouldn't bite, tried it in 1st wouldnt bite? so very rarely it will be, and mostly not at all? can someone please help me?
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Frost
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all please check and confirm that you put them in:
Friction, steel alternating.

Next check that the actuator arm that pokes out of the top of the engine is in correctly eg, all the way back when you seal things up.

Wind the adjuster on the lever all the way in.

You don't have the strength to compress the clutch springs by hand, so pull the arm as far forwards as you can to remove any slack. If it comes all the way forwards then something is wrong. Once the slack is removed by adjustment on the arm, you can fine tune with the adjuster on the lever.

Check if the clutch is working okay by attempting to push it both with and without the clutch pulled in. If it behaves correctly, but stalls when you put it in gear it's a side stand switch problem.
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiya mate, my brother is a level 3 trained mechanic, and weve, done the adjuster fully, he built the clutch back as you said, friction plate, steel plate etc, and the push rod/actuator arm is in correctly, so were a bit clueless on what it can be? you can feel pressure when you pull the lever etc, but it just isn't biting, does 1/10 times as ive said :S any other ideas matey?
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Frost
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you top the oil up after changing the plates? what oil did you put in it?
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah topped the oil up, took 2 1/2 litres, its castrol GP1 oil or something, semi synthetic, cost like £29 for 4 litres, but yeh topped it up, and also done the friction plate,steel plates alternating as you said, made sure the actuator arm was properly in place, checked the tension and its been adjusted so there's no slack or play, but it just doesnt seem to work at all? =/
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

try letting the adjustment off the cable a little, you should have a few mm free play at the end of the lever before the clutch begins the operate.

Also did you soak he clutch plates before fiting them? and did you start with a friction plate against the clutch basket and finnish with another on the outside?
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 05 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
try letting the adjustment off the cable a little, you should have a few mm free play at the end of the lever before the clutch begins the operate.

Also did you soak he clutch plates before fiting them? and did you start with a friction plate against the clutch basket and finnish with another on the outside?


got few mm of play, just doesnt bite =/

he soaked them yes mate, and started with friction plate and ended with a friction plate pal Thumbs Up
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Frost
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 06 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the lever feel light all the way, or does it get heavy at some point?
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 06 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

nah feels heavy, like a normal clutch would matey
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: help please! Reply with quote

can anyone think of what it could be Sad
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You keep talking about it won't bite, so I assume the clutch is constantly slipping? And it you can't move forwards?

Or is the clutch constantly engaged and won't disengage?

Are all the plates into the basket properly?, the steels mesh with some teeth on the inside of the basket, and the pressure plates on the outside.

To think through it laterally, if it's constantly disengaged, there must be some pressure through the basket where the actuator acts so it's allowing the plates to move against each other.


Oooo brainwave.

Bet you didn't replace the springs when you replaced the plates. Bet you reused the old ones that have stretched.

AmIright?

Gaz
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

no we didnt replace the springs but i think i know why its not working now, because the clutch was dragging, so the overall thickness of the clutch assembly was slightly thicker, therefore stretching the springs, and now cause its stretched its no longer exerting enough force to engage the clutch properly i think shall go see! ill let you know Thanks! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oooo brainwave.

Bet you didn't replace the springs when you replaced the plates. Bet you reused the old ones that have stretched.

AmIright?

just rang honda, even they cant get a new diaphragm spring, gonna cost £35 for a new spring? you know anywhere that i could get hold of one?
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea what a diaphragm spring is.
I'm talking about the clutch springs, should be like 6 of them, all round the basket. Using old stretched springs with new clutch plates can cause all sorts of issues.

Gaz
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
No idea what a diaphragm spring is.
I'm talking about the clutch springs, should be like 6 of them, all round the basket. Using old stretched springs with new clutch plates can cause all sorts of issues.

Gaz


ahhh right, my bro said its the diaphragm spring, apparently mine doesnt need springs he said, but were gonna look into it, took the clutch to part tonight, and put it bike in, it worked for a few seconds fully, then went again all of a sudden Sad
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Frost
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The springs are compressed, not stretched. The new plates are thicker than the worn ones meaning that the springs will be pre tensioned more and work better than they did before. Replacing them will almost certainly not solve your problem.

Can you post some pictures?
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finpos
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike clutches don't have diaphragm springs like cars, they just have, err, springs.

Take the cover off. 80% certain the bolts holding the springs have come loose. Do this before one of the pillars they bolt into snaps. That's really annoying.

f.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if it's like the clutch on the VFR750 (ok, they are very diferent bikes but not an unreasonable thought).

If it is, one of the friction plates is a different shape to the other ones. It goes in the basket first.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't the 750 have a hydraulic clutch?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 08 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
Didn't the 750 have a hydraulic clutch?


Yeah, but it's just disengaged by being pushed by a hydraulic piston instead of being pulled by a cable. The clutch itself is broadly the same as any other motorcycle clutch.

Another thing that occurrs to me. Was the basket notched along the edged of the tangs? This can make one stick open.
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 09 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
The springs are compressed, not stretched. The new plates are thicker than the worn ones meaning that the springs will be pre tensioned more and work better than they did before. Replacing them will almost certainly not solve your problem.

Can you post some pictures?


yeah ill try my best to get some pictures ASAP matey! what you want pictures of exactly? just plates and diaphragm spring etc?
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 09 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
Bike clutches don't have diaphragm springs like cars, they just have, err, springs.

Take the cover off. 80% certain the bolts holding the springs have come loose. Do this before one of the pillars they bolt into snaps. That's really annoying.

f.


my bike does have a diaphragm spring honda VFR400 NC30 89, i rang Hunts in stockport, honda dealer, and the diaphragm spring is discontinued :S hence why the stupid price of £31 and £3 P&P
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Last edited by bruce_lee_22 on 01:14 - 09 Jun 2010; edited 1 time in total
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 09 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I don't know if it's like the clutch on the VFR750 (ok, they are very diferent bikes but not an unreasonable thought).

If it is, one of the friction plates is a different shape to the other ones. It goes in the basket first.


looking at my old clutch kit loads were 3a, one of them was 4a for some reason :S but the new clutch friction plates are all the same size :S i cant understand this, if you guys can help shed some light it'd be a huge help :S ill try get pictures to help also!
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Frost
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 09 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c282/M0LOT0V/untitled-2.jpg

The part he is referring to is part 14 in the above diagram.
I suspect that the problem is with parts 18/19 or maybe nut 17 coming undone.
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bruce_lee_22
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 09 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
https://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c282/M0LOT0V/untitled-2.jpg

The part he is referring to is part 14 in the above diagram.
I suspect that the problem is with parts 18/19 or maybe nut 17 coming undone.


i think its part 18, the road keeps sliding apart slightly? think that could be it? the nut 17 is locked on securely
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