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Advice on : piston ring sealant paste!

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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 30 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Advice on : piston ring sealant paste! Reply with quote

Hello.

Was going to order New piston Rings as the CG is burning oil at a fast rate, but not smoking, today it ran out of oil even tho i filled it up yesterday.

But the dealer said before i order the piston rings on a 30,000 CG need to know the size i need and need to look at the piston to see what size it has currently has on as i have to order a over size one due to wear and tear over the last 20 years on the Pistons.

But i know of a cheaper way : piston ring sealant paste

Would this work on a Honda CG ? to last till Test is passed ?

Thanks

Solo
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 23:00 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple yet fast answer. OK looks like i will keep spending 9.95 per week on oil.
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using the costrl type, dont know how to spell it, the good suft, got it from halfruds.

Its not losing it no where, no oil on gound or bike, just keeps going down, and bike isnt smoking
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Re: Advice on : piston ring sealant paste! Reply with quote

X9Travels wrote:
But the dealer said before i order the piston rings on a 30,000 CG need to know the size i need and need to look at the piston to see what size it has currently has on as i have to order a over size one due to wear and tear over the last 20 years on the Pistons.


What? Eh?

You will need to check the size of the piston to know what size rings to get (standard, 0.25 over size, 0.50 over size etc), but you don't get oversized rings, you get ones that fit your piston.

Either you have misinterpreted what the dealer said, or he's an arse and talking out of one.
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

must of misinterpreted him. no oil is leaking, iam baffled its using lots of oil yet non has left the engine and didn't smoke today Sad wird CG this is.
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 11 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its real annoying to. Mit sell it don't want it to be a money pit. dont wana do MOD1 again and then cant do MOD 2 cost bike dies on me
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tutton
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PostPosted: 00:39 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil disapearing into the water/coolant system? aka headgasket failure?
Cant think where else oil could go...
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 00:53 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
Oil disapearing into the water/coolant system? aka headgasket failure?
Cant think where else oil could go...


CG is air cooled. Thumbs Up

It could be the valve guide seals need to be replaced.
How old is it as seals have a time life span and go hard.

I just seen it is 1990 so replace valve guide seals.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:43 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
Oil disapearing into the water/coolant system? aka headgasket failure?
Cant think where else oil could go...


Have BP attached anything to the bike recently? Very Happy
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 13 May 2010
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PostPosted: 07:21 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Re: Advice on : piston ring sealant paste! Reply with quote

X9Travels wrote:
Hello.

But the dealer said before i order the piston rings on a 30,000 CG need to know the size i need and need to look at the piston to see what size it has currently has on as i have to order a over size one due to wear and tear over the last 20 years on the Pistons.



Thanks

Solo


NO one can tell if the bore is worn without taking the engine apart, quite right, my 250 (different engine granted but still a single) has 55,000 miles on, std bore, never touched and the only oil leaks out of the countershaft seal. Pretty soon I'll be trying to replace that without a total engine rebuild as you're supposed too. CG's are fairly simple engines to work on though, designed that way after all. You do ned to take off had and barrel and check what size piston and what wear there is though, but then as someone else said why worry, as long as it runs okay just keep topping up the oil, if you intend to get rid after you pass your test there's no point spending on it you'll never get that back. I only spend on my 250's because I love the things and am determined to keep one running until I can't keep running anymore myself.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 07:33 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
tutton wrote:
Oil disapearing into the water/coolant system? aka headgasket failure?
Cant think where else oil could go...


Have BP attached anything to the bike recently? Very Happy


Hahahaha. Laughing
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Robby
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 12 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off, the point behind expensive oils is that you don't need to change them as often because they break down more slowly, and they offer better lubrication to stop things wearing out. Seeing as your CG is burning through it in no time, has an engine design from the dawn of multigrade oils, and is in a low state of tune, you don't need expensive oil. I probably run a same bike as Hondapartsman (CB250RSA, simple Honda 250 single) and I use 20W50 for under a tenner a gallon from the local petrol station forecourt. Gives me smoother gearchanges than expensive halfords 10W40 semi syn, and the engine doesn't feel as hot in London traffic.

The magic pastes and engine restore oils don't work, so avoid them.

If you're mechanically minded then take off the head and barrell to measure your piston ring end gap and change the valve stem seals. A pattern gasket set will cost under 20 quid and contain gaskets and seals for the rebuild, genuine piston rings will be under 20 quid and David Silver spares will have them in within a week. The Haynes manual will tell you the process.

If you aren't mechanically minded, get another engine. Cheap and easy to fit.

Just to be sure, you are checking the oil level with the bike upright and with the dipstick sat on top of the hole (not screwed all the way in), aren't you?
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 13 May 2010
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PostPosted: 06:34 - 13 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:



If you're mechanically minded then take off the head and barrell to measure your piston ring end gap and change the valve stem seals. A pattern gasket set will cost under 20 quid and contain gaskets and seals for the rebuild, genuine piston rings will be under 20 quid and David Silver spares will have them in within a week. The Haynes manual will tell you the process.



Make sure you have your engine number, despite what people will tell you there have been changes in the engines over the years and you can't always trust reg dates. Silvers will probably have rings in stock and if not I know where they'll get them from. If you want to be sure of your exact model and in case someone changed the engine sometime already feel free to PM me the engine number and I'll check for you as soon as I can.
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hondapartsman
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PostPosted: 06:39 - 13 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
First off, the point behind expensive oils is that you don't need to change them as often because they break down more slowly, and they offer better lubrication to stop things wearing out. Seeing as your CG is burning through it in no time, has an engine design from the dawn of multigrade oils, and is in a low state of tune, you don't need expensive oil. I probably run a same bike as Hondapartsman (CB250RSA, simple Honda 250 single) and I use 20W50 for under a tenner a gallon from the local petrol station forecourt. Gives me smoother gearchanges than expensive halfords 10W40 semi syn, and the engine doesn't feel as hot in London traffic.



Yes that's what I have, two of in fact and would have more if space and money allowed. First one I bought new in 1981, saw it come out of the crate so intend to keep it running until I stop running myself if I can. I would never use anything less than a 10/40 semi synthetic though (tend to use car as slightly cheaper and just as good if not better in my opinion) but each to their own, has to be changed at least every thousand miles though.
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SoND
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 13 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

hondapartsman wrote:
(tend to use car as slightly cheaper and just as good if not better in my opinion) but each to their own, has to be changed at least every thousand miles though.


What car oil did you use? Has it ever given you problems with your clutch?

I would be tempted to use 15w oil, it will still burn it but less will get through at a time.
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 20:00 - 13 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
20W50


I use 10w40 what would happen if i change to what u said 20w50.

Iam doing yet another Oil change tomorrow as the oil is very dark and black, going to give it a new spark plug too.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 13 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bugger all would happen, use whatever's easiest for you.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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