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Do I need new sprockets?

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dx90
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Do I need new sprockets? Reply with quote

I have uploaded a photo of my front and back sprockets. Do you think they need replacing?

https://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd39/dx90_photos/P1050627.jpg

https://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd39/dx90_photos/P1050618.jpg


The bike was left standing over the winter by the previous owner and I have notice that several of the rollers in the chain are seized. So it looks like a new chain. Just wondered if the sprockets were Ok.

Thanks
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pics aren't coming through. Try uploading them again.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look alright, but if you where getting a new chain I would get new sprockets anyway.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a bit of wear, nothing to worry about if you weren't replacing the chain but as they arent that expensive it is worth replacing them anyway.
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dx90
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll replace both sprockets and chain then. Whats a good brand to buy for a Suzuki SG500 K5?
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

dx90 wrote:
I'll replace both sprockets and chain then. Whats a good brand to buy for a Suzuki SG500 K5?


DID chains are highly rated (by me included), have heard of a few IRIS ones failing and EK have mixed reviews too. Quite easy to find the chains and sprockets as a kit for cheap on eBay or online bike shops.

Whatever you do, I'd be sure to get one with a rivet type master link, get the tool and do it yourself if you want or otherwise fit a split link temporaily and ride it to a garage to fit the rivet link for you.


https://bikespeeduk.com/epages/steer2916.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/steer2916/Products/CHAINTOOL

I have that chain tool and for the price I cannot fault it Thumbs Up .
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DID, EK, SSS I've owned and been happy with.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

www.bandcexpress.co.uk is good for buying chain and/or sprockets. Thumbs Up
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dx90
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago will that tool set fit all 520 x 110 chains?

I have heard that DID I think are a different size to most.
I'll have a look through the other brands and see if I can find some reviews on them.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

dx90 wrote:
DonnyBrago will that tool set fit all 520 x 110 chains?

I have heard that DID I think are a different size to most.
I'll have a look through the other brands and see if I can find some reviews on them.


I used it on a DID 525VM2 chain, the 520 chains have the same pitch so the tool will be ok on those too and the 110 just refers to the number of links Thumbs Up . The only part of the operation that would be different if the chain pitch is different (distance between two pins) is pressing the link plates on but this could be done in other ways if you found the tool didn't fit (i.e. a pair of taped up mole grips).

I did need to modify the link plate pressing attachment with a dremel though (could use a drill or a file); I had to widen the holes in the link pressing tool to fit the wide pins on the DID chain - this might be what you mean by them being different? (see attached pic). I found an instruction PDF for the tool that I can link you to when I get home if you want it?


Interestingly though, the tool I bought is identical to loads of chain tools but far cheaper and without the varying manufacturer brands stamped on them i.e.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Motion-Pro-Chain-Tool-Breaker-And-Rivet-Kit-Motocross_W0QQitemZ370212053808QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&rvr_id=&cguid=39f3b89e1280a0aad4e74e77fe3b85bf
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27cows
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bloody hell, there's years of life left in those sprockets Laughing
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
Whatever you do, I'd be sure to get one with a rivet type master link, get the tool and do it yourself if you want or otherwise fit a split link temporaily and ride it to a garage to fit the rivet link for you.


Split link and locking wire...

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/nasawillow6-5008.jpg

...or silicone:

https://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/ChainPhotos/SiliconMasterLink.jpg
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SoND
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:

Split link and locking wire...

...or silicone:


Lockwire, yes. Silicone, eugh, will probably work but messy. Chain would need to be very clean.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoND wrote:
Chain would need to be very clean.


Should be quite easy to achieve on a new chain.
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dx90
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago, I only read that the DID chains are different in some way, they didn't explain what the difference was unfortunately.

If I got that kit for my DID 520 110 chain would I have to modify it or would it be fine as it is?

I'm not sure how they actually work to be honest.

If you can send me a link to the instruction PDF that would be great.
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Bishbash
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cant stand split links, they are too fiddly to get on for my big ogre hands! I tend to lose my rag with them and end up breaking...Rivet links all the way. Very Happy

Oh the sprockets looks fine to me.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

dx90 wrote:
DonnyBrago, I only read that the DID chains are different in some way, they didn't explain what the difference was unfortunately.

If I got that kit for my DID 520 110 chain would I have to modify it or would it be fine as it is?

I'm not sure how they actually work to be honest.

If you can send me a link to the instruction PDF that would be great.



Hmm I'm not entirely sure what the differences with DID compared to other chains are, but the only differences listed on the DID site between the 520 and the 525 chains are the overall width (one side to the other). The bit I modified was just the piece labelled L in the PDF pic - i widened the holes to fit the link pins (see my attached paint pic Thumbs Up )

The pitch (length of each link) is the same so as the tool fit mine it should also fit yours. As I said though the only bit that is affected by the pitch length is the link plate pressing attachment so even if it didnt fit then you could press the link on in another way (i.e. mole grips).

PDF:

https://www.motionpro.com/images/documents/08-0058.I8-0058.pdf


In my Pic:

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/pressingonalinkplatetoolmod.jpg

A - assemble your master link.

B - set up the link plate, it needs to be pressed on using the tool or similar as it is tight.

C - My tool didn't work as the holes were too small and the link pins couldnt fit in it

D - I widened the holes to fit the pins then used the tool to press the plate on Thumbs Up .


After that you just use the rivetting attachment to widen the end of the pin poking out of the top.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 11:01 - 17 Jun 2010; edited 1 time in total
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
SoND wrote:
Chain would need to be very clean.


Should be quite easy to achieve on a new chain.



I can't see silicon easily sticking to a brand new chain they are usually heavily greased up.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 17 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

27cows wrote:
Bloody hell, there's years of life left in those sprockets Laughing


Not all of us look after our bikes as well as you. If he takes this attitude then someday the chain might outlast the life of the sprocket and then terrible things could happen. I suppose it's just convenient to replace both, although I wouldn't. I'm pretty cheap too.
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dx90
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've dowmloaded the PDF and with your explanation as well, I now understand it all.
Making the holes larger if needed to the tool is a easy thing to do now I know whats what and it will do for most chains as well, a bonus.

What is the quality of the tool bits like?

I have heard of people that have broken some tool parts while breaking the link in the chain.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depending on how cheap you want to be, you may be able to recover the existing chain by soaking it in parraffin and cleaning it to get the links freed up, letting it dry out for a couple of days, then soaking it in hot (melted) grease for a while to make sure the grease has soaked into all of the little nooks and crannies.

It's what I would do, the sprockets have lots of life left but could quickly wear a new expensive o-ring chain.

If the chain has a rivet link you may be able to remove it without splitting it by removing the swingarm.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
ms51ves3 wrote:
Should be quite easy to achieve on a new chain.



I can't see silicon easily sticking to a brand new chain they are usually heavily greased up.


How hard is it really going to be to remove a tiny bit of grease from the outside of a chain link? Rolling Eyes
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

dx90 wrote:
I've dowmloaded the PDF and with your explanation as well, I now understand it all.
Making the holes larger if needed to the tool is a easy thing to do now I know whats what and it will do for most chains as well, a bonus.

What is the quality of the tool bits like?

I have heard of people that have broken some tool parts while breaking the link in the chain.



The tool is pretty well made considering the price. Some people have managed to snap the handle off (knurled handle) but you could always use mole grips to hold it if you are hamfisted enough to do this.

Splitting the old chain is probably the most stress you will put on the tool parts, so grease up the threaded parts on the tool beforehand. To split the chain I also dremeled the rivet heads off of one of the links before pressing the pin out, as it is easier on the tool parts. TBH though if you were really worried about it you could just hacksaw/grind the old chain in half - if you don't intend on reusing it then be as destructive as you like Thumbs Up .

It doesn't take a lot of force to splay the soft link rivets or press the side plates on so I can't see many people damaging it that way either. I think used properly that the tool will last a long time, there are bits for cam chains etc too which is nice.

For £25 I certainly am not going to complain Thumbs Up .
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27cows
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexio wrote:
27cows wrote:
Bloody hell, there's years of life left in those sprockets Laughing


Not all of us look after our bikes as well as you. If he takes this attitude then someday the chain might outlast the life of the sprocket and then terrible things could happen. I suppose it's just convenient to replace both, although I wouldn't. I'm pretty cheap too.


What terrible things? Laughing
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dx90
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago, thanks for the info. I think I will buy and like you said for that money, it's a good price.

Robby, the links on the chain are not seized. Some of the rollers in-between the links are seized. I think some of the o-rings have perished and the rust has set in.
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