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servicing a ccm604

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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 03:12 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: servicing a ccm604 Reply with quote

hi,
i have just finished puting a ccm604 (with road wheels) back on the road.
i got it from someone who left it in a shed for 6yrs, after taking it apart to paint & forgot about it.
so it came to me in bits but i've put it all back together & its just passed its 1st mot! (and its 8yrs old!)
its only done 600km's. (long boring story about 2 mates going halves on the bike then falling out Sleeping )
i've re-sprayed it (2 pack), replaced the dodgy looking sprocket bolts,fitted a new ht lead & rear tyre. (old one was fouling the chain) & it runs fine.
i washed the old air filter, replaced the plug & cleaned out the carb but thats it as far as servicing goes.
so i would now like to change the oil.
anyone any ideas where the oil filter on this is?
i dont have a handdbook, though i have found an ebayer selling it on disc, which i might buy, but until then :
i presume the oil is drained the conventional way? (its oil in frame) via the sump plug?
where is the oil filter? (is it a strainer or the more common type) as i cant see one,lol
any ideas where i could get a replacement air filter.? (its a foam sock type, but has a rubber connecting hose glued to it)
i dont think there anything else, is there?
cheers,
GAZ
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Hazylogic
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PostPosted: 08:25 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccmriders.co.uk
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tried there, just before posting, but site wouldnt let me view anything or register.
will give it another go though,
cheers,
GAZ
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Pie-Roe
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Joined: 05 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I *think* it's an inline from engine to frame, if it's the same model I'm thinking of.

Found this:

All this is how i change my oil on my rotax engined bike.... its a bit long winded but once you have done it its straight forward enough

1, make sure you have a good mineral oil (not synthetic or semi-synth) castrol GP (not GPS) is one of the best at around £12 - 15 for 4litres you will need an oil filter, and a replacement fibre washer for the magnetic sump plug ccmpart 250-010 its an 18mm o/d 12mm i/d fibre washer

how to do it...

2,remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank and headstock 8mm allen key

3, remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm allen screws) this exposes the cover plate for the oil filter

4, remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) its held on with four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm a.f. nuts) yes its a bit awkward

5,place an old drainoil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug (13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy!

6, remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can under the oil pouring onto the floor

7, remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm allen screws and catch more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push in the new filter .... refit the cover plate

8, make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one

9,measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long flexible funnel dont rush it to avoid airlocks

10, leaving the long funnel in place i turn the motor over a dozen times on the kickstarter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc and remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst hand turning the engine

11, pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap"important" dont run the bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! run the bike for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and repeat the running/sighting procedure

12, now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! top tip ..... put some plastic sheet down before you start

Read more: https://www.visordown.com/forum/forummessages.asp?dt=&UTN=133915&V=5&last=1&SP=#ixzz0r2A4CNtf


Copied from visordown.

Pyro
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 16 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

you know, i looked at that & didnt realise that was the oil filter. (I changed the front sprocket)Embarassed
sounds a bit of a pallaver doesnt it?
im sure its not as long winded as it sounds,lol (he says hopefully)
interesting that it says to only use mineral oil, i was about to buy some semi-synthetic motorcycle specific oil (i dont want to start that old argument again,lo.l)
cheers,
GAZ
oh, & sight tube? what sight tube?
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stirlinggaz
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 20 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

pyroforlife wrote:
I *think* it's an inline from engine to frame, if it's the same model I'm thinking of.

Found this:

All this is how i change my oil on my rotax engined bike.... its a bit long winded but once you have done it its straight forward enough

1, make sure you have a good mineral oil (not synthetic or semi-synth) castrol GP (not GPS) is one of the best at around £12 - 15 for 4litres you will need an oil filter, and a replacement fibre washer for the magnetic sump plug ccmpart 250-010 its an 18mm o/d 12mm i/d fibre washer

how to do it...

2,remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank and headstock 8mm allen key

3, remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm allen screws) this exposes the cover plate for the oil filter

4, remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) its held on with four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm a.f. nuts) yes its a bit awkward

5,place an old drainoil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug (13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy!

6, remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can under the oil pouring onto the floor

7, remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm allen screws and catch more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push in the new filter .... refit the cover plate

8, make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one

9,measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long flexible funnel dont rush it to avoid airlocks

10, leaving the long funnel in place i turn the motor over a dozen times on the kickstarter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc and remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst hand turning the engine

11, pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap"important" dont run the bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! run the bike for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and repeat the running/sighting procedure

12, now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! top tip ..... put some plastic sheet down before you start

Read more: https://www.visordown.com/forum/forummessages.asp?dt=&UTN=133915&V=5&last=1&SP=#ixzz0r2A4CNtf


Copied from visordown.

Pyro

thank-you,
i just printed this off & followed it, successfuly.
very usefull & much apreciated, & i case i need to do anything else i think i might splash out & buy a copy of the wsm & owners manual on cd, seen them on ebay for a fiver delivered.
cheers,
GAZ
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