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clutch slipping

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chillyman0
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Joined: 11 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: clutch slipping Reply with quote

when the bike is cold it will slip when it reaches the top end of the revs and then catch and come back down again, doesnt slip when i pull away hard, just when i pin the revs round.

any idea what part of the clutch is going?
plates?
springs?

cheers
Aaron
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current : 1996 VFR750 for sale, PM for info! 2000 E1 ZX-9r
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kingsmith
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Joined: 04 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 18 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

my bike slips the same as you, not when cold just when the revs go round to 8/10 thousand slipps really bad then after the 10thou it bites down again..

but with out stripping the clutch down and checking and seeing whats worn out you wont really know..prob just the friction plates?????????

its when it produces the max horse/torque or some thing like that..happens all the time feels werid..
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27cows
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming there's enough oil in the engine, and it's in good nick, most likely to be springs, although plates (wearing of the friction, warping of the steel) is possible, as is a loose clutch centre nut. Also worth checking the cable and actuator closely too.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

First thing to do on any cable-operated clutch which is slipping is to check the cable. Un-hook both ends of the cable and if you can't push and pull it easily by just pinching with finger and thumb you need to service it or fit a new one.
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doggone
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know which bike this is, but be wary of opening clutch if it's a hydraulic one rather than cable.
There's a caliper much like on brake disc which tends to get gunked up and reluctant to retract.
(ex bandit 1200 owner...)
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chillyman0
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah it is hydraulic clutch but it will go away when its warmed up, makes me think the plates have passed it as the bite better when warm...
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preivious : 2007 Skyjet 125 (died), 1991 gsf400 (problems, rotting in garden)
1996 gsf600n (sold)
current : 1996 VFR750 for sale, PM for info! 2000 E1 ZX-9r
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doggone
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

chillyman0 wrote:
yeah it is hydraulic clutch but it will go away when its warmed up, makes me think the plates have passed it as the bite better when warm...

Not necessarily, there's less drag when the oil is warmed so the whole thing works easier.
I'd locate and check the caliper first.
Changing plates and springs is not a massive job but still annoying to get in there and find minmal wear.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

VFR750?

Take the clutch slave cylinder off the left side of the engine (3 allen head bolts). For some reason it has a paper gasket under it which doesn't go all the way round anyway so I wouldn't bother replacing it. Be careful not to pull the clutch lever while it's off.

Once it's off, you'll see the end of the clutch push-rod. Pull it out (it's about 10" long). You'll see that one end of it is all covered in rust and grot. Give it a good clean up with wire wool so it's clean and shiny again and reassemble. If it's very pitted, put it in the other way round.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chillyman0
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 19 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers stinkwheel, so its a closed system, i wont need to bleed it?
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preivious : 2007 Skyjet 125 (died), 1991 gsf400 (problems, rotting in garden)
1996 gsf600n (sold)
current : 1996 VFR750 for sale, PM for info! 2000 E1 ZX-9r
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 20 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

chillyman0 wrote:
cheers stinkwheel, so its a closed system, i wont need to bleed it?


I should maybe decribe the system.

You pull the lever, this forces hydraulic fluid into the slave cylinder on the left side of the engine. This cylinder pushes against a long rod that goes all the way through the middle of the gearbox to press against the inside of the clutch pressure plate, seperating the plates and making it disengage.

If there is corrosion on the rod, it sometimes doesn't return fully when you release the lever causing the clutch plates to be held open slightly. As simple as the rust catching on the hole the rod passes through.

As you said, the clutch is a closed system. Think of the slave cylinder as like a brake calliper and the rod as being like the brake pads. Unless you undo the hydraulic hose or pump the piston out, the fluid will stay in there. Undoing those three bolts (one really long one, two short ones) removes the whole slave cylinder in one piece, it remains a closed system.

Bleeding wont do any harm but I'd expect a system in need of bleeding to cause clutch drag rather than slip.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chillyman0
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 20 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ta boss, ill give it a go and ill let you know if it has worked Karma
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preivious : 2007 Skyjet 125 (died), 1991 gsf400 (problems, rotting in garden)
1996 gsf600n (sold)
current : 1996 VFR750 for sale, PM for info! 2000 E1 ZX-9r
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