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CG 1989 Vavles ?

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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 30 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 08:32 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: CG 1989 Vavles ? Reply with quote

Hi.....

I have redone the valves due to rattling again, and is now OK, but iam running out of thread on the valves, i think this is the last time i can do the valve clearance, and there nothing left of the thread to adjust .

I have looked over Google but cant seam to be able to find out where u by the valve parts from ?

Anyone know ?

Look at image below the part i need, is the thread type screw thing at top of rocker arm top of valve, you turn it to make the gap smaller or bigger, part above locking nut.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/pgZymnFuMe0/hqdefault.jpg
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 08:39 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe a Honda dealer?
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 09:16 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rather buy online. could use local deller Dyrons york road, but would some time its cheaper online. Does anyone know the propa name for the part i need ?
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kt
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I havent seen the other threads but if you are having to readjust the valve clearances constantly it sounds to me like the hardened faces have worn of the camshaft and/or your pushrods are worn out. Your problem is not in the cylinder head alone.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 13:55 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

supermono wrote:
I havent seen the other threads but if you are having to readjust the valve clearances constantly it sounds to me like the hardened faces have worn of the camshaft and/or your pushrods are worn out. Your problem is not in the cylinder head alone.
I'd second that advice.
THINK about it.... the adjuster screw is there to take up the gap as bits wear. Its NOT getting shorter itself, really, is it?
Buy a replacement adjuster, and it will be pretty much the same length as what you have, and you'll STILL have no more thread to adjust, becouse basically you have run out of asjustemnt for wear in the valve train SOMETHING has worn out, completely. dead, defunct no more metal left.
Most likely, as said, the lobes of the cam.
Once the surface harneding has worn through, then you are into soft metal.
will hod some sort of shape for a while, but it will wear more quickly, and get flatter and flatter, not opening the valves as far, meaning poor performance and ever more frequent valve adjutments, until...... you run out of room to adjust it any more......

Buy a new cam, you should be able to wind out the adjusters again, and start all over, AND have the benefit of valves that open the full way, giving you full power out of the engine.... or close to...
Probably be worth getting a new cam / timing chain to go wit the new cam, so that they open at the right time too....

HOWEVER......

If the engine is THAT worn in the valve department......

PROBABLY worth full strip and rebuild.

Likely that the valve seats are worn and the valves are sitting high in the head and not sealing like they should, and the bores are probably rather sloppy too, while your main bearings and big & little ends are likely to be similarly 'thin'.

Burry into an engine suffering signs of severe wear..... it wont JUST be the bits you immedietly see..... its ALL seen the same amount of miles, number of crank rotations etc etc etc.....

Full engine over-haul time, or perhaps a new (or second hand) engine.

Maybe second hand engine while you tear down and over-haul original, in your own time.
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 16:59 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
cam


The CG 125BR-J 1989 dose not have a Cam as i been told.

But yes the adjuster thred is getting shorter, not just looks like it, it is getting shorted the thred it self
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kt
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

All 4t motorcycles have a cam of some description , your engine is of the overhead valve design and most certainly does have a cam which normally wears badly when oil changes are neglected.
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well doing an oil change on Wednesday ill take some picture when i strip engine down see if people can see some thing bad or worn.


Anyone know a good site to buy engine parts from . for CGS ?
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kt
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Op, to be honest I dont think your engine is woth any sort of repair, sounds to me like its either been run with low oil or has had infrequent oil changes, this will result in the whole engine suffering extensive mechanical wear. The piston and rings will be worn badly but the cam in these bikes is a weak point and i.m.o if you are going to carry out a repair you will need 1/ pushrods 2/rocker arms 3/ new tappets 4/ camshaft 5/rebore 6/new piston and rings. the bottom half of these engines are very strong and rarely suffer damage but it would be cheaper for you to get another engine. Is there any metal in your oil filter?
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time i checked there was only dirt in the oil filter, when i check Wednesday ill check the filter mesh. it just need to be up and runing to pass my test.

Thats all iam bothered, needs to be kept running till passed MOD 1 + MOD 2,
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also going to order new chain and sprocket, what size sprocket should i use ?

Available for the CG BR-J are : 14t 15t 16t 17t ?
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 18:39 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

X9Travels wrote:
Quote:
cam


The CG 125BR-J 1989 dose not have a Cam as i been told.

But yes the adjuster thred is getting shorter, not just looks like it, it is getting shorted the thred it self


ALL 4-stroke motorcycles have a cam. The CG is a four-stroke. It has a cam. Believe me & supermono.

I'm not some chap i a pub that once took a moped apart, & neither I dont think is Super! for my part I've been twiddling spanners on bikes probably longer than you have been on the planet...

The CG has a Cam! TRUST us on this one!

The early pusg-rod motors DO have an oddity in that unlike MOST bikes that have two or more cam-lobes on thier cam'shaft, many having more than one cam-shaft even....

Normally there is a lobe to open the inlet valve and another to open the exhaust valve, and in multi-cylinder engines pairs for each cylinder, and on engines with multi-valve heads, where theres usually two inlets and two exhausts, rather than use a forked rocker so that one lobe opens towo valves, they get one lobe per valve.

CG's anomoly is that both valves are opened by one lobe, I think the inlet opened conventionally by a tappet running directly above teh lobe, the exhaust opened via a rocker running on the SAME lobe, to give the timing difference.

Two valves on one lobe = double the load on them, hence double the wear, HENCE advice about where your adjustment has all gone.

YES, the tappet adjuster MAY be getting shorter.

PROBABLY becouse with huge clerances to take up its been peening itself over on the end.

Swapping it WILL NOT solve the root cause of your problem.

So to your other posts, doing an oil change?

THAT isn't going to solve the problem that stuff is just RATHER a lot worn out is it?

Its like asking for the salt and viniger after you have eaten your chips!

Engine needs stripping down, and YES you WILL find signs of severe wear in there.... down in the bottom, not just up around the valves, and it WONT be sorted with some new tappet screws!

You quite PROBABLY, as Supermono suggests have a VERY scrap engine on your hands, that you are either going to have to fully recondition, or replace.....

and eccomomically, quite likely to be cheaper to buy a new bike than either.....

what grade oil do I suggest?

what chain and sprocket or sproket sizes?

Till you have sorted your engine maledies and decided if its even WORTH fixing...... I wouldn't be particularly bothered by ANY thing else....

Suggestion?

Bugger the sprockets, get a Haynes manual, look up cam-shaft, prove to yourself you SHOULD have one, get out spanners, go find it.... if theres much left of it..... work from there!

Sprokets aren't much use if theres nothing to turn them really....
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kt
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thumbs Up Thumbs Up You can come and bang your head of my brick wall anytime Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 19:11 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

like i said, just need to keep it going for a few more weeks till i past my test, Monye i have is for test, if i blow it all on new engine parts, i wont be able to do my test for a while. Next test is Thursday.

The oil is Black so needs changing, chain wont stop going lose. So think if i sort the chain out and new oil, should get me throw my test next week with out blowing all my saved cash on new CG parts ? its just needs to keep going, then if it blows up after i have my full license, i wouldn't care either way.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 19:42 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

X9Travels wrote:
like i said, just need to keep it going for a few more weeks till i past my test, Monye i have is for test, if i blow it all on new engine parts, i wont be able to do my test for a while. Next test is Thursday.

The oil is Black so needs changing, chain wont stop going lose. So think if i sort the chain out and new oil, should get me throw my test next week with out blowing all my saved cash on new CG parts ? its just needs to keep going, then if it blows up after i have my full license, i wouldn't care either way.


Turn up on a clapped out bike that wont do the national speed limit when asked, that LOOKs like you OBVIOUSELY haven't heeded the advice about 'routine maintenance' during CBT, and you dont stand much chance of PASSING do you?

IF that is your imperative, and you DGAS about teh CG, forget it, spend your money on hiring a school-bike to do your test on....

and HOPE you pass it..... just 'cos you have an apointment, DONT mean they will give you your ticket.....

dont count your chickens before they have hatched.

Meanwhile.... if you dont intend keeping the bike and DGAS whether it runs well or not, WTF do you GAS what sprocket ratios would be best?!?

Lets get some priorities in order here.

Test HAS to be top of the list, becouse sooner you are a qualified rider, the better.

You need a bike FOR the test. You HAVE a bike, but its basically buggered.

You have limited money (dont we all) so whats the best way to go.

Whats the problem? Bike being buggered, needing bike for test, or lack of money?

Here and now; find a bike school, rent bike for test.

Best use of limited funds you have, I would say.

You get a neat and tidy bike to turn up on, and a wally-bib with a rider-training school name on the back...... makes the examiner think you have had some training and stand a chance of knowing what you are about...

so MUCH better chance of a pass, than yruning up on something that will have him coughing like a 60 a day man trying to follow you, NOT making you pupil of the month!

Still no garantee..... but more likely you'll have alicence after for your money and efforts.

You'll still have a buggered CG, but you can decide what to do with that after, either fix & flog, flog SorR, or just scrap and get a bigger bike.

Seperate the problems..... deal with whats important.

super..... got a bit of that wall without too many dents in it, mate?
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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hondapartsman
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 19:47 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see where you're coming from, just in case you don't pass your test though be aware that new parts could cost you easily a couple of hundred quid and you'll need someone who knows what they're doing to do the engine for you. There were some cam problems with the CG series but generally if you change the oil regularly then they ought to keep going and going, at least until the rings wear out. I would think if you don't pass your test and have to carry on using it a second hand engine would be your best bet, I wonder if anyone has tried using one of the copy ones in a proper Honda? Might be worth a try, they're more variable in quality as far as I can see but that means there are good ones. The might HMC are getting more and more parts made in China so quality must be improving, in fact there seem more parts come up made outside Japan than in as far as I can see these days (and I do see, I've been involved in Honda parts all my life, if the name doesn't give you a clue) I've even toyed with the idea of buying one of these copies myself and running it while, I have had a few on my hands but only short term and not on the road as I was doing favours for other people. That's another story though and something I ought to have known better than to try. Maybe one day I'll have few hundred to spare and will find something second hand and give it a try, I like a challenge if keeping my own old and decrepit bikes is not enough of one.
Anyway, sorry to go on, good luck with the test though.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 19:48 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore the doom. You still have some thread left on those adjusters, keep adjusting until you run out of thread and then swap the engine.
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can still do test on it, still runs, still does 65mph, no power lose, just the valve thread ruining out and chain keeps going lose. Besides that its not really a doomed bike. Just minor work.

As for money no sorry i dint mean to come across as skint guy, i come out with a OK wage, i spend most of my wage on other hobbies and activity out of the 1,129 wage i prob get 835 to keep to my self. i could buy a new bike but tbh whats point when soon as test done it will be sold so a waste. Or new engine, due to my job, would not have that time to remove and refit an new engine and is it worth it would i reclaim it in sale of the bike ?

What i have thought about tho, getting a nice bigger bike to sit outside to admire LOL to keep me aiming for that Test pass and not give up?????? Is that a good idea ?
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 27 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

May I suggest you use this....

https://boingboing.net/images/flowchart-2007.png
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X9-rider
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PostPosted: 07:40 - 28 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL that's quite funny.... dear i say helpful LOL

re- did the valves this morning after leaving it for a whole day to cool, no rattling sound now Smile ok ill admit i been doing the valves while the CG been still abit warm.

Is running OK just that dam oil is black as a ......well you know where i was going with that.......
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.
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:02 - 28 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your valve clearance gap is getting smaller right? probably the exhaust more than the inlet?
So either your single cam lobe is growing, both pushrods are getting longer OR my guess is that either the valves stems are stretching or the valves themselves are receding into the head allowing the valve stem tip to move closer to the end of the adjuster, thus decreasing your valve tip clearance.

When your adjusting screws no longer protrude enough to sit on the valve stem tip and the underside of the rocker arm makes contact with the valve spring collar you will be forced to undertake some major overhaul work. You will also risk the screw itself being forced out of the rocker arm as there are insufficient threads to secure it and any damage a loose adjusting screw and lock nut will cause whilst bouncing around.

What you could do as a temporary fix is to raise the height of the rocker arms themselves by placing some shims or thin washers underneath the support plate which is bolted down onto the cylinder head, this will increase your valve stem clearance, but will not solve ultimately solve your problem. When the time comes if it needs new valve seats it might be cheaper to fit a good second hand head. If its only the valves, they can be replaced for around £20 the pair and a couple of quid for some new stem seals and a whatever a new head gasket costs.
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kt
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 28 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Op, considering the age and mileage of your bike you will need to be changing the oil with quality stuff every 1k miles maximum and remember that when you are checking your oil level that you DO NOT screw the dipstick in but only set it in on its threads to check the level as this will make a big difference in the amount of oil in the engine.
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MarkJ
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 12:33 - 28 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

supermono wrote:
considering the age and mileage of your bike you will need to be changing the oil with quality stuff every 1k miles maximum

On a 1989 CG125? Eh?
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kt
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 28 Jun 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I change the oil on all my Hondas every 1k miles regardless of mileage or age, its the cheapest and best maintenance that can be done to any bike i.m.o and saves a lot of hassle and money as the bikes get a few miles on them. I also glue a magnet to the sump bolt of the smaller Hondas as their mesh thimble oil filters are too coarse and only catch the larger pieces of metal in the oil. Even a cg 125 will die at low mileages if the oil is not changed frequently as they hold very little oil to start with and in particular the models with the lean burn carb fitted as the engine tends to run hotter on these models.
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X9-rider
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 23:23 - 22 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

HI

Well i replaced my CG Tappet adjuster screws today, and reset the valves, and toke the CG out for a spin. The Tappet adjuster screw once removed and looked at carefully, the bottom was all dented and chipped

Result: CG now hits 65mph ( confirmed ) and if i hold it in 5th till almost red line, i can get 70mph |( confirmed ) This was on the Flat.
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