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| Blunet600 |
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 Blunet600 Nearly there...
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| doggone |
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 doggone World Chat Champion

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| _Will_ |
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 _Will_ World Chat Champion
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Karma :  
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 Posted: 17:10 - 10 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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| KLR600 |
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 KLR600 World Chat Champion

Joined: 15 Mar 2005 Karma :    
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| UnknownStuntm... |
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 UnknownStuntm... World Chat Champion

Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Karma :   
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| Blunet600 |
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 Blunet600 Nearly there...
Joined: 03 Dec 2005 Karma :     
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 11:29 - 12 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Hi
What do you want to photograph?
The 50mm f1.8 is a bargain lens and dirt cheap for what it is. The f1.4 version is even better but getting on for 4 times the price. Biggest problem with the f1.8 is that it is fairly weak and won't take much abuse.
If you want portraits then you might instead consider the 85mm f1.8.
If you are aiming to shoot bikes on track then you need something far longer. At least a 200mm lens, and preferably 300mm with the option of using a 1.4 teleconverter (and that counts out cheap lenses). Bird watching would probably want a far longer lens, but would also mean you could wouldn't be half so worried about auto focus. The Canon basic 75-300 lens isn't great but it does the job (you will get noticeable purple fringing if you shoot something white with a contrasting background.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Blunet600 |
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 Blunet600 Nearly there...
Joined: 03 Dec 2005 Karma :     
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 Posted: 22:53 - 13 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Ill mainly be taking pictures of bikes, both still and moving. I want to take pictures like these! www.site-photography.co.uk ____________________ Honda - Power of Dreams - NSR 125R - Hornet 600 |
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| _Will_ |
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 _Will_ World Chat Champion
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Karma :  
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 20:30 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Hi
For pics like the automotive ones there a prime (or several) will be good. Zoom can help when you can't move to get the shot, or want to arrange the shot to exclude / include items you can't move.
With affordable zoom lenses the max aperture is fairly small (and even the expensive ones still lag behind the primes), so the smallest depth of field you can get it quite large. Primes normally have far larger apertures that similar price zoom lenses.
However if shooting something moving at speed a zoom can greatly help as it is unlikely you will be able to get free choice of where to shoot from.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Digitalize |
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 Digitalize Nearly there...

Joined: 09 Aug 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 20:47 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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I've just bought a 50mm f1.8 and 55-250 IS to complement my stock 18-55 IS with my 450D.
If going for a long zoom, you need the IS, as the cheaper lenses have much slower apertures, so it gets a bit tricky. The zoom is also perfect for sports events, getting you closer to the action, through the fences etc.
To properly know what lens you want, you need to first understand all the terminology, but the 3 i have are pretty much general.
The 50mm has a small DOF, so lets you get some nice 'macro' shots, with a blurred background, the Aperture is only 5 blades, so the bokeh (Blurry circles in the background) is more of a pentagon, but i quite like that. ____________________ 1998 CB600F Hornet |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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| Digitalize |
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 Digitalize Nearly there...

Joined: 09 Aug 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 21:15 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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| Kickstart wrote: | | Digitalize wrote: |
If going for a long zoom, you need the IS, as the cheaper lenses have much slower apertures, so it gets a bit tricky. |
Afraid I don't really agree with that. Longer lenses land up with a shallower depth of field with a wide aperture, hence using a wide aperture means your focus needs to be far more accurate so not an easy gain. With panned shots it is fairly easy to get away with a slower shutter speed without image stabilisation, and with non panned shots it is easier to just use a tripod or monopod.
All the best
Keith |
I'd much rather have the IS, for peace of mind if not anything else. Also means you dont HAVE to have a tripod, although it is a good bit of kit to have.
If it was an f2.8 lens, then i'd probably be fine without IS, but when all the way out at 250mm, its f5.6, which unless its a sun soaked day (Unlikely in England, or at rally events) the shutter speed just isn't fast enough, and the shake starts to come through. But i didn't have a tripod last time i found this problem. ____________________ 1998 CB600F Hornet |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 22:57 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Hi
I started out with a 75-300 which was f5.6 all the way out, and happy enough without IS on it. Have IS on my 100-400, but rarely use the lens and virtually never use the IS on it. I do have a 120-300 f2.8 and will use that with a 1.4 telephoto extender hand held (so as a ~400mm f4).
Even with a fast lens in normal daylight I will often be at f5.6 or slower using ISO 200.
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Digitalize |
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 Digitalize Nearly there...

Joined: 09 Aug 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 23:23 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Seem to be amazing at Photography and Bikes! I like you more and more...
I just feel if you can get IS, then why not, its not particularly expensive, paid £175 for my 55-250, supposed to suffer a little distortion through out, but i can afford an L series.
Any reason not to have IS on all the time? ____________________ 1998 CB600F Hornet |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 23:53 - 14 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Hi
Tend to find with the 100-400 that it takes a while to realise you are panning, and until then the IS tries to correct the panning movement.
I would prefer the money for the IS to instead go on a faster lens or just a better quality lens.
That said I do tend to like using slower shutter speeds. For example this photo was taken under the old Dunlop Bridge at Donington (now gone), so the bike was probably doing 150+ at that moment. From memory it was taken with a shutter speed of a 50th of a second (but doing that I had about a 95% failure rate).
All the best
Keith ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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| Digitalize |
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 Digitalize Nearly there...

Joined: 09 Aug 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 00:33 - 15 Jul 2010 Post subject: |
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Thats fair enough, but the 55-250 has IS, and its kinda hard to find a better lens for £175... The Tamron 70-300 i found the image quality to degrade far too quickly for my liking!
I'd probably rather have a faster lens too, but a similar f2.8 of that lens was £400+
Nice shot too  ____________________ 1998 CB600F Hornet |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Blunet600 |
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 Blunet600 Nearly there...
Joined: 03 Dec 2005 Karma :     
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| _Will_ |
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 _Will_ World Chat Champion
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Karma :  
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 16 years, 44 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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