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Front Sprocket Nut....

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nasty
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Front Sprocket Nut.... Reply with quote

How fucking tight are these things????

I tried to loosen the damn thing to fit a new front sprocket and couldn't budge the thing, neither could my mate FFS!

Going to my mates garage in the morning to get the windy gun on it.

Before I tackle the tightest of all nuts with a windy gun I have a rather embarrasing question - in all seriousness which direction does the nut rotate to loosen LOL Embarassed Laughing Anti-clockwise or clockwise? I've never changed my sprockets before so I don't have a clue Embarassed

Any and all insults will be taken like a man! I would like the question answered though Very Happy
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Normally they undo the conventional anticlockwise direction.

Make sure that any locking washer is released.

Often you have to put something through the rear wheel to lock it against the swinging arm, then put the socket on the nut, put a breaker bar on it and then put a scaffolding pole on it. Take care to avoid damaging the wheel and swinging arm and get someone to hold the bike steady.

All the best

Keith
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nasty
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 06 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Normally they undo the conventional anticlockwise direction.

Make sure that any locking washer is released.

Often you have to put something through the rear wheel to lock it against the swinging arm, then put the socket on the nut, put a breaker bar on it and then put a scaffolding pole on it. Take care to avoid damaging the wheel and swinging arm and get someone to hold the bike steady.

All the best

Keith


Thanks for that Keith Thumbs Up

I did fully apply the rear brake and used a big pipe on the breaker bar as well as freeing up the locking washer but the thing was sooo tight.
I will try and secure the wheel to the swingarm like you suggested to help.
I'm hoping it's just the initial bite that needs to be slackened with the windy gun.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite often a bar is more successful than a windy-gun. Give it a try though, it'll either work or it won't.
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bacon
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my zx7r it needed my old man standing on the rear brake, the bike up against a wall, a breaker bar with a full length piece of scaffold bar, and a quick hard jolt to crack it open and avoiding spinning the rear wheel instead

It was ridiculously tight I have to admit haha
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neil.
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try spraying on some penetrating lube like Plusgas and leaving it for a couple of hours. Might help.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The toughest bit is breaking that initial 'crack', a bit hard jolt should do this, and douse it in WD40 beforehand
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, usually they are done up to around a zillion Nm.
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crazyjoyce
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big_Ham wrote:
Yeah, usually they are done up to around a zillion Nm.


except on a hornet, 50nm, which surprised me
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Paulington
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Thumbs Up.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyjoyce wrote:
Big_Ham wrote:
Yeah, usually they are done up to around a zillion Nm.


except on a hornet, 50nm, which surprised me


Must be a typo. Razz Laughing
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Dan79
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would agree that a metal bar slipped over the end of a breaker bar is the best bet, get a mate or neighbour to stand on the back brake and then you lean on the bar. Used this method on my RXS this week after the chain snapped at 42,000 miles.
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G
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 07 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyjoyce wrote:

except on a hornet, 50nm, which surprised me

That's what the manual says, not what people do them up to Wink.
Hondas (at least turn of the century ones) generally seem to have smaller nuts ( Wink ) and lower torques.

Anyway, I'd use a 'windy gun' - obviously making sure the engine is engaged in first. Sometimes have had to hold it on for a couple of minutes. But never liked the idea of the sort of torques being put through stuff when it's got me on the end of a big breaker bar - whether it's more than someone doing a cack-handed wheelie is another matter! Have managed to easily snap a hammer put through the backwheel before when changing chain and sprockets.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan79 wrote:
Would agree that a metal bar slipped over the end of a breaker bar is the best bet, get a mate or neighbour to stand on the back brake and then you lean on the bar. Used this method on my RXS this week after the chain snapped at 42,000 miles per hour.


That's ludicrous speed! Very Happy
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LeanIt
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PostPosted: 04:11 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one on my Honda CBR 1000 is easy to get on and off.

The splines do all the work of transferring the power, the bolt is just to hold it in place.

Unless the design on your bike is significantly different, some pratt has over tightened it! Probably with a 'windy gun' Rolling Eyes
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D O G
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulington wrote:
Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Thumbs Up.


Not in all cases.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my old bike the previous owner had decided to use thread lock, just in case Rolling Eyes I had to seriously heat it up to get the thing off so I had to change the seals as well.

I'm with G, I really don't like the idea of putting that much force into the final drive shaft bearings or chain.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulington wrote:
Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Thumbs Up.


This confuses my mate, who will normally have the ratchet handle pointing down and go to the left to undo the nut/bolt Doh!

Marki wrote:
I'm with G, I really don't like the idea of putting that much force into the chain.


On that note, would it not be a good idea to keep a spare knackered chain just for this job?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 08 Aug 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer to use the bar to a hammer-gun because I dislike putting repetetive shock-loadings through the gear clusters.

I suspect that neither is any more damaging than the other but there's a good argument for both (or not using either). A shock -loading wll require less ultimate force to release a tight fastener for sure.
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