scott dt125 x
Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 09 Aug 2010
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 Posted: 06:55 - 12 Aug 2010  Post subject: Dt125 x Clutch |
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Hi i wonder if anyone could help me......
Ive not long bought this bike and ive just had it serviced the other day but now when i pull the clutch in and put the bike in first it just jumps forward and stalls but he serviced the clutch because it wouldnt go into nutral properly but thats fixed... javascript:emoticon(' ')
javascript:emoticon(' ')it just now it jumps forward even tho the clutch is in and the stand is up so i let the bike warp up some more and it went into first but didnt stall but it did jump forward so i think it definetly needs re adjusting......
ikno a bit about bikes plz help me!!!javascript:emoticon(' ')! |
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hmmmnz
Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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| Posted: 07:25 - 12 Aug 2010 Post subject: |
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ok, at the lever and at the engine side of the cable there are adjusters,
normally taking the slack out of the cable is enough to have the clutch work,
if not then loosen the lock nut at the engine end and wind the adjuster out butting more tension on the cable,
if you run out of adjustment engine end then start on the lever end,
untill you have a point where the clutch works correctly with out slipping
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woll
World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 May 2010
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| Posted: 09:16 - 12 Aug 2010 Post subject: |
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| hmmmnz wrote: |
if you run out of adjustment engine end then start on the lever end,
untill you have a point where the clutch works correctly with out slipping |
I always adjust it at the bars first, then adjust at the engine when the bar adjuster if screwed all the way out.
But to answer your question, your clutch cable needs tightening if you undo the locknut on the bar adjust then turn the inner part out. Keep turning it until you have about 10mm freeplay or run out of adjustment. If you run out of adjustment then tighten the cable on the engine, then fine tune it on the bars.
https://www.dt125.co.uk/misc.html There's a service manual for most dt models there. Join the forum too while your at it 
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 14:45 - 12 Aug 2010 Post subject: |
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| woll wrote: | | hmmmnz wrote: |
if you run out of adjustment engine end then start on the lever end, untill you have a point where the clutch works correctly with out slipping |
I always adjust it at the bars first, then adjust at the engine when the bar adjuster if screwed all the way out.
But to answer your question, your clutch cable needs tightening if you undo the locknut on the bar adjust then turn the inner part out. Keep turning it until you have about 10mm freeplay or run out of adjustment. If you run out of adjustment then tighten the cable on the engine, then fine tune it on the bars.
https://www.dt125.co.uk/misc.html There's a service manual for most dt models there. Join the forum too while your at it |
The lever end adjuster is the WEAKEST place to adjust the cable. It's NOT the prime adjustment point, it 'SHOULD' merely be used to set the cable slack. It ought to be wound in as FAR as possible.
My DT is the old air-cooled model, so arrangement probably different to the later LC's, but the PRIMARY adjustment point for the clutch is the screw and lock-nut arrangement on the push-pin through the gear-box primary shaft, located on the mag-side engine cover.
Should be adjusted to 'just' take out free-play on the pin, without releasing load off the clutch plates.
THEN the cable should be adjusted so that the handle-bar adjuster is as close 'in' as possible, the cable adjusted at the engine end, winding out the adjuster screw until it starts to take pressure off the plates, then BACK until there is about 1cm of 'free' movement at the lever end, or about 2-3mm at the cable, before it starts to do anything.
Cable adjuster at the handle-bar end is there to provide a 'small' amount of adjustement to keep the free play in check. If you are using it as your MAIN means of adjusting the cable, you risk the adjuster slipping in the lever bracket, or bending.
If you cant get enough travel on the lever with the clutch cabe adjusted as described, then the most likely culprit is an over-stretched cable.
Often 'neglected' they are frequently over adjusted time and time again, often without leaving any free-play on the lever, so they are held under constant tension, causing them to 'yield', and stretch.
At which point a fair % of your lever travel is used NOT moving the clutch, but stretching the cable, and you dont get full travel at the plates, and its nie-on impossible to adjust to work properly.
A new cable is ALWAYS a worthy investment if you are struggling to adjust the clutch.
But, start with the Haynes manual, and work through it, adjusting the clutch operation mechanism engine side first, then cable as described.
OTHER thing to check is the gear-box oil, grade & level.
For the air-coled motor, book says SAE10/30. Without checking, possible for some-one to have used EP90 gear oil, which would be like treacle in comparison, and sure as make the clutch drag, but more likely something like SAE 20/50 engine oil, as its a more common grade and easy for some-one to think 'close enough', but would give dragging, especially if clutch not well adjusted. As would over-filling.
Last thing in the list is the plates & springs. Little bikes, hard pressed by learners getting to grips with the clutch, and on the DT harder worked trying to hoik the front wheel, etc.... often well worn on older examples. would normally slip, rather than drag, but if clutch has been 'adjusted' so that they dont slip, possible there's not enough travel in the mechanism to get them to fully release.
Theres also a 'botch', putting washers under the clutch springs to put more pre-load on them, and squeeze thinner plates together, that can make the clutch heavy and prone to drag..... becouse it also reduces the pressure plate travel.
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scott dt125 x
Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 09 Aug 2010
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| Posted: 07:36 - 14 Aug 2010 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the help guys much apprciated the problem is now sorted and im happy as hell with it |
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