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Help! Rear wheel nut removal... - Update!

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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Help! Rear wheel nut removal... - Update! Reply with quote

Need to take the rear wheel for tyre replace tomorrow.
However, nut stuck on (suspect monkey with air wrench put it on last time!)

Any hints and tips?
Going out tomorrow am to try and find a breaker bar, probably end up in Halfrauds just to see if they know what a breaker bar is.
Other than that any other things to try?

Thanks in anticipation Thumbs Up
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Last edited by map on 21:59 - 27 Sep 2010; edited 1 time in total
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Halfords do breaker bars, you can check stock of your local Halfords on their website to avoid a wasted journey. Thumbs Up

Penetration oil helps to free seized parts but I'd expect you'll be able to undo once you're armed with a decent sized breaker bar.
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herulach
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Breakers are handy anyway, but if you don't want to spend the cash, ratchet + big pole & foot should see it sorted.
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Halfords do breaker bars, you can check stock of your local Halfords on their website to avoid a wasted journey. Thumbs Up .


Although the stock checker can be a work of fiction as I've found out more than once before.

Failing that take it to a local mechanic/tyre place and ask them to whack the windy gun on it.
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Paxovasa
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A snug fitting socket and ratchet, then slide a metal tube over the ratchet to give you more leverage. Thumbs Up
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Ste
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all else fails then you just need a hacksaw. Wink

www.stedotcom.com/stuff/saw.avi
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paxovasa wrote:
A snug fitting socket and ratchet, then slide a metal tube over the ratchet to give you more leverage. Thumbs Up

Already tried the ratchet and foot to no avail.
Only metal tubes I have are tent type ones, aluminum and bend really easily so no use for this job.

Appears to me getting hold of a decent metal tube is about as likely as the 'lint free cloth'. Ok in principle but non existent in reality Very Happy

Just been onto Halfords site 3/4" drive 19" bar for £25 looks about right. However, socket set only 1/2" drive so may have to get the 24" @ £28..

Thanks for the feedback so far.
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Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger? Very Happy
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ride to a garage and get a monkey with an air wrench to undo it for you.

Then do it up again with a normal hand tool and ride it home.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

map wrote:

Appears to me getting hold of a decent metal tube is about as likely as the 'lint free cloth'. Ok in principle but non existent in reality Very Happy


They leave loads of decent metal tube leaning up against buildings in every city centre. All you need is a spanner.
https://www.grandellilaw.com/scaffolding_02.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 24 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.timescolonist.com/technology/2309981.bin?size=620x400

"A man was arrested today after a 3 storey scaffolding platform fell. The man was seen undoing a scaffold pole at the bottom of the structure

'But I only needed to undo my rear spindle!' he said"

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Skudd
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 25 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

herulach wrote:
ratchet + big pole & foot


I always thought that WAS a breaker bar.
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a little update.
Got 2' breaker bar. Didn't budge it ! Shocked

Ended up putting exhaust on, taking to garage, exhaust off (cries of ouch that's hot) and getting it air wrenched loose.

So exhaust back on, ride home, exhaust off (after cooling down) then tried to remove wheel.

Nothing. Solid on. Works how it should, goes round stops with brakes, etc. but will not come off.

BTW this is a little Vespa LX50 scooter used for a runaround.
Can only think the brake shoes are somehow keeping it on.
I've heard this can happen with drums on cars and it's the auto-adjust. Told there's usually something to poke around and reset on cars but I can't see anything similar on the bike.

So once again, any help appreciated.

Thanks in anticipation. Thumbs Up
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...and the whirlwind is in the thorn trees, it's hard for thee to kick against the pricks...
Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger? Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the nut is off but the wheel is stuck?

If it won't come out, give it a clout!
https://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/40531.jpg

Seriously. I checked online and there is nothing else holding it once the nut is off, give it a moderately severe hiding and it should pop off. There is even a video on youtube of someone doing this on his 150 vespa of the same design. He's hitting the axle with a standard hammer. I'd probably go for hitting the wheel itself with a deadblow hammer for preferance.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 27 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

OT, but I think the best lesson I've learned in my limited mechanical experience is that hitting things hard generally works. It's remarkable how much force 'things' can take without breaking, and need to have applied to become loose.

That is all.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 01:31 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course. I assume you've backed off the brake adjuster if it's a drum brake, not that it should be gripping the drum when properly adjusted anyway.

If there is an auto-adjuster on the brakes, it'll be the first bike I ever saw with one (the engineering abortion that is the cable operated disc brake aside).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 01:54 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
OT, but I think the best lesson I've learned in my limited mechanical experience is that hitting things hard generally works. It's remarkable how much force 'things' can take without breaking, and need to have applied to become loose.

That is all.

lol

Hammers break things surprisingly easily. Care must be taken when using a hammer because otherwise "how do I undo this part" becomes "where's the cheapest place to buy a replacement part from". Wink
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 02:08 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:

lol

Hammers break things surprisingly easily. Care must be taken when using a hammer because otherwise "how do I undo this part" becomes "where's the cheapest place to buy a replacement part from". Wink


It's all about choosing the correct hammer.

For example. I used this one to gently tap the two crankcase halves apart during an engine rebuild:
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/engine4.jpg

I used this one to smash apart the non-compatible right hand side casing of a terminally fucked engine so I could remove the oil pump and drive assembly without having to drill out every single fucking rounded off/seized crosshead bolt to get at it.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/305/Image011.jpg

The problems occurr when people use hammer #2 to do job #1.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 03:28 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A hammer is fine as it tends to deliver a sharp tap (metal hammer anyway) that frees the nut / bolt without mashing it up. Provided that it actually goes though...

https://cfnewsads.thomasnet.com/images/medium/486/486809.jpg

These days i only ever use sockets with an internal shape like that. It grabs the flats rather than the corners and remove stuff that's had the corners rounded. Usually once the corners round all attempts at removal just make things worse.

Applying some heat is always a good idea if it's possible.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not 100% sure about vespas, but you probably have there a tapered shaft, i.e. you're going to need a puller to get it off. The alternative is to put the nut back on so that it's not contacting the wheel and, well, ride the scoot up and down a bit. It'll drop off the shaft with a bit of a thunk. Don't ride it any further Smile

f.
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice.
I'll be hitting it with a hammer either tonight or tomorrow.

Did try this before with rubber mallet but hit mostly the tyre so not to damge the wheel. I'm thinking the rubber just absorbed the impacts so did nothing.

Maybe going slightly off-topic but there is no tread in the middle of the tyre, just the sides. The MOT rules say on bikes less than 50cc the tread must be visible. It doesn't say over what area of the tyre (like the 1mm/1.6mm tread depth rule). Tread is visible. The MOT test centre say it needs a new tyre to pass ('tis difficult finding another test centre before you say go elsewhere). So what rules are they following?

<edit>
Oops, I stand corrected...
MOT manual from government site wrote:
Where the engine capacity is not greater than 50cc, tread depth may be less than 1mm, if the tread pattern is clearly visible around the entire circumference and across the whole breadth of the tread

</edit>

Will post again on progress Very Happy

Thumbs Up
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...and the whirlwind is in the thorn trees, it's hard for thee to kick against the pricks...
Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger? Very Happy
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sparkywilliam...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 27 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 28 Sep 2010    Post subject: Help! Rear wheel nut removal... - Update! Reply with quote

map wrote:
Thanks for all the advice.
I'll be hitting it with a hammer either tonight or tomorrow.



I'm in the same boat buddy with a pivot nut on the swingarm of my ittle YBR. a Dead blow hammer sounds like a good idea
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 11 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like your really struggling.

Sometimes it's best to admit defeat and your limitations. (We all have skills in different areas).

Last month I couldn't get my drop links off my Mondeo, they were totally ceased. (I Soaked the bolts it in WD40, used lots of strength ie 14stone leaning on it, but no joy)

Local garage struggled to get them off also, they had ended up using lots of heat (Which I don't have). They charged me £20

For all your posts on the subject and money spent, I would have just ridden my bike to my nearest back street mechanic and asked him to put a new tyre on or loosen the nut.
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