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Rust Remover - Tried and Tested

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astroscope
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Rust Remover - Tried and Tested Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Got some rust at the bottom of the exhaust and other parts of the bike. Anyone tried a rust remover that actually works?
I need to remove some rust from some chrome, in the hope that it will not do too much damage to the chrome.

Thanks
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astroscope
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Umm,
after a google search i came across this ite:

https://www.cookhaus.co.uk/vinegar/index.htm

Vinegar!!!!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also look up electrolysis on google/youtube. Works well for removable parts.

In terms of treating rust. Any of the paint-on rust killer products work well. They are based on phosphoric acid which turns the rust black. You then paint it.

Chromed parts are another kettle of fish. If they are rusting, it means the layer of chrome on the surface of the metal is damaged. It'ss keep forming rust spots there. A bit of scotchbrite scouring pad and WD40 or paraffin seems as good as anything for getting the worst of it off. It will however come back again.

I've also seen people use coke and a bit of scrumpled up tinfoil.

Also bear in mind that if it's heavy rust on the exhaust, with bits of chrome flaking off, it could be rotting from the inside out.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Re: Rust Remover - Tried and Tested Reply with quote

astroscope wrote:

I need to remove some rust from some chrome, in the hope that it will not do too much damage to the chrome.

If you have rust showing through then your chrome coating has already failed and you should not worry too much about trying to preserve it. You could try removing the visible rust with some fine grade wire wool and then coat the affected area with clear lacquer as a temporary fix but nothing short of re-chroming will adequately correct the problem.
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radical
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brick acid will remove and kill all rust, its cheap and very effective but you must wear googles and gloves etc when using this product, it is available in small bottles from builders merchants and is the best stuff I have ever used by a mile.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 02 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

radical wrote:
Brick acid will remove and kill all rust, its cheap and very effective but you must wear googles and gloves etc when using this product, it is available in small bottles from builders merchants and is the best stuff I have ever used by a mile.


Also sold as "spirit of salts" for cleaning drains and "Muraic acid" for cleaning swimming pool filters. It's hydrochloric acid and will indeed remove the rust. Use with extreme caution though, its HIGHLY corrosive. If left for too long, it will dissolve the part. Under no circumstances get it in paintwork, alloy or yourself.

Goggles and gloves! Speaking as someone who normally takes a very slack attitude to PPE.

Once it's off, it's still worth treating the area with one of the phosphoric acid based "rust killer" products. Repainting is essential or it'll be rusty again within a couple of days. If you're not going to use a rust killer. Paint as soon as it's dry.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 03 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anything you do to the pipes will only buy you a bit of time. The steel is protected by the chrome when a bike is new but modern chrome is rubbish and soon oxygen starts to get to the steel and you will get rusting. Clean off the rust and you just expose a nice fresh layer of steel ready for salt water and air to do its work on.
Stainless pipes FTW if you want to keep the bike, steel wool if you are selling .
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astroscope
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 03 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok,
There must be a way to protect the chrome which is still in good nick?

Autosol any good at that?
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 03 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solvo Autosol is an abrasive, it will hasten the wearing of chrome.
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 03 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

astroscope wrote:
Ok,
There must be a way to protect the chrome which is still in good nick?

Autosol any good at that?


The chrome itself won't "rust". What happens is that moisture and salts get between the plating and the steel and rot the steel. Once it's started it's almost impossible to stop the process, unfortunately.
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flamegrape
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't spend a lot of money on Rust Removers.

Grab some tissue and soak it in WHITE vinegar, wrap it around the rusted area, wrap this in plastic and tape it up to stop the vinegar evaporating. Leave this about 12 hours (even longer is better!) or so.

The vinegar (very effectively) oxidises the rust and leaves a brown iron residue behind which can be buffed away.

If you prefer, mix in BAKING SODA with the vinegar to make a paste to apply.

I have successfully cleaned up a ton of rusted (to fk!!) tools, spanners, pliers, wrenches etc like this.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jonny2010 wrote:
Don't spend a lot of money on Rust Removers.

Grab some tissue and soak it in WHITE vinegar, wrap it around the rusted area, wrap this in plastic and tape it up to stop the vinegar evaporating. Leave this about 12 hours (even longer is better!) or so.

The vinegar (very effectively) oxidises the rust and leaves a brown iron residue behind which can be buffed away.

If you prefer, mix in BAKING SODA with the vinegar to make a paste to apply.

I have successfully cleaned up a ton of rusted (to fk!!) tools, spanners, pliers, wrenches etc like this.


is that going to work on chrome exhaust??
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flamegrape
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The chrome itself won't "rust". What happens is that moisture and salts get between the plating and the steel and rot the steel. Once it's started it's almost impossible to stop the process, unfortunately.


This is the case - you need the oxidising agent (here, vinegar) to be in contact with the rust to do the job. If it's between the chrome and metal it's going to be awkward without breaking the surface metal.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

so its one of those things that we all just have to put up with it and clean it every weekend........... Sad
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can not oxidase rust, it is an oxide.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

jonny2010 wrote:
If you prefer, mix in BAKING SODA with the vinegar to make a paste to apply.


Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, if you mix vinegar (acetic acid) and sodium bicarbonate you would get sodium acetate (a pH neutral salt) and carbonic acid (carbon dioxide dissolved in water) neither of which have any derusting ability. In fact, you would have SOO much of an excess of sodium bicarb that any effects you observed would be probably be down to the abrasive nature of the bicarb itself.

In conclusion, just use baking powder and water, the vinegar in this instance does nothing except make some bubbles Thumbs Up .
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
You can not oxidase rust, it is an oxide.


Technically you can't reduce it either. Oxidation of iron is a third order reaction, to all intents and purposes irreversible. It takes HUGE amounts of energy to reverse it back to iron (so in a blast furnace or thermite reaction).

The electrolysis technique (using the object you want to de-rust as a cathode in a bath of washing soda) works to remove the rust, but not in the way you'd think. It's removing the rust but not converting it back to iron. More causing unusual, water soluable iron 3 salts to form between the metal and the rust.

Here's a link to a series of youtube videos of a mate of mine using it on a huge scale on a sidecar chassis that was dumped off a bridge into a river estuary where it sat for a number of years. Very effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj4qa0hsz40
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:
the vinegar in this instance does nothing except make some bubbles Thumbs Up .


And a funny smell.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

Here's a link to a series of youtube videos of a mate of mine using it on a huge scale on a sidecar chassis that was dumped off a bridge into a river estuary where it sat for a number of years. Very effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj4qa0hsz40



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edsOkNf2VdE&feature=related

Jesus christ, what a clown that guy is.. nice garden....
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 07 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:


Jesus christ, what a clown that guy is.. nice garden....


He's a very smart guy and a hell of an engineer in his own (slightly less than traditional) way. Just gardening isn't his thing.

That said, his garden is easily 10 times neater than any of the other ones on his street because he cuts everything down to roughly ankle height then sets fire to it once a year in a Burt Munroe style. The others you couldn't even get in.

Here's his bike. Which he built himself:
https://www.dieselbike.net/bmw/MousesBike.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 11 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammerite Kurust has worked fine for me down the years, just as the other warnings go, beware it will discolour paint.... probably just that phosphoric acid stuff really, which i bet you can get way cheaper. (Turns it into iron phosphate or something?)

Mind you given that most of the time I used it, it was to denature the top layer of a rusted bit of metal that had been sanded down smooth prior to repainting, it doesn't really matter that much!
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Clanger
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 12 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find that elbow grease, time with the aid of wire wool or a wire brush come very close to perfect. Thumbs Up
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