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Overfuelling carb?

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lozza
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Overfuelling carb? Reply with quote

Hey guys.

i have an NSR 125 that is definitely cranking and sparking, but refuses to start.

It has had the problem ever since i bought it (after i road it home 20 miles).

i took it to a garage who replaced the plug (and supposedly stripped and cleaned the carb), which got it running instantly, and it lasted me a good 3-4 hours of good performance.

it slowly died again the day after. im certain theres no problem with the electric side, as it sparks.

i briefly got the bike started after removing the plug and cleaning it up, however it died slowly again like it did before.

all the signs point to the carb overfuelling the cylinder and fouling up the plug.

so ive taken the carb out and i just want to know what are some points to check on it that would make it run so rich.

also, the man from the AA who i called out when it broke down reckons that maybe a rubber seal has been broken inside and is causing it to leak. are there even any seals on an nsr carb?
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a needle in the haystack situation.

If it was running fine then died, is there plenty of two stroke oil in the reserve and is the pump working, Smoke from the exhaust will indicate this. Also there should a little drip of burnt two stroke oil that drips from the exhaust from time to time.

Give the carb a good clean, blow out both idle jet and main jet.
Clean the float chamber.
The float sat in the float chamber may be set to low.
You will know it's set to high because petrol will leak from the overflow outlet. There are settings in manuals.
It may need professionally cleaning though?

Two explanations about carb settings on the NSR 125

The idle and mixture screw settings are unique to the bike as it is affected by the temperature, altitude, spark plug condition etc etc.

I do know that is the mixture is set at 1.5 turns out at stock.
So set the mixture screw at that settings and the idle is of course easy to set, around 1500RPM warmed up with the choke off is perfect. After you have got the idle set, you can fiddle with the mixture screw some more and see what works best, only turn it around 1/8 of a turn at a time.


set the pilot screw (the smallest , the more in front) at 2 1/2 turns out
- start engine on choke without acceleration and let it turning until it begins to stuff
- apply a bit of acceleration (2500-3000) , take choke off keep like that for 30s to 1mn
- release right handle and let it warming for an other couple of mn
- adjust the idle screw (the big one with the spring) to idle at 1500 rpm (normal is 1400 but when engine is very hot you'll loose 100 rpm)
that's all
remember : the carb is underjetted (132,38,55) and 2strokes dont like lean mixture . look my file NSRtips.doc , you will see where the jets are and which size is the best.
Source: https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2390678

Electrical issues could be related to pick ups needing cleaning, timing, coil, ignition and regulator rectifier.

https://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=nsr-125+carburetor&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&_odkw=nsr-125&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Regulator rectifier
https://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=nsr-125+regulator+rectifier&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&_odkw=nsr-125&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313


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The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What 2 stroke oil are you using?

How long/far is your average journey?

Do you ever rag it, or just pootling around town?!!?
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lozza
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the feedback.

im certain the problem is with overfuelling, it has sufficient oil and the way it dies is not as if the engine was suddenly siezing from lack of lubrication.

it went from running well and idling unnattended, to not idling unless i revved it. then not starting without the choke on.

then very weak and spluttery. then it starts briefly, need lots of revs to keep it running but eventually dies.

after it dies for the last time it wont start again unless the plug is changed.

so i have taken the carb apart, nothing obvious inside it... dont know what size jets are on it... maybe i should just buy a 2nd hand one from ebay.
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote, "after it dies for the last time it wont start again unless the plug is changed".

Just clean the plug with wet and dry paper and leave a 3 mill gap between contacts.

I have to say it does sound like a carb issue.
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Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Er, my theory was not lack of oil, but the plug 'oiling up' it is showing symptoms of an oiled plug ... it is more likely to oil up if it is cheap oil, not given regular long or 'hard' runs.

It might be fuel level, sure, but just trying to give some alternatives before you concentrate too heavily on the carburettor ....

It might even be the oil pump over-oiling ...

How smoky is it when it is running?
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lozza
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

rob yarrr wrote:
maybe its down on compression

test that aswell


it ran perfectly when i took it from the garage, and when cranking it doesnt fire at all

Quote:
How smoky is it when it is running?


like any other 2 stroke but only with the choke on, or when revved while not warmed up

as for long runs and riding style etc, it was bought from an active user, ridden home 20 miles and then wouldnt start.

the only time ive ridden it was for 4 hours after i took it back from the garage, but i was giving it good revs as im a new rider and have poor clutch control.

having a look at the carb, it appears the pilot screw has been broken off or removed, comparing it to the similar carb in the JC20 handbook, i can see the throttle stop screw, but there is a small stub sunken inside where the pilot screw should be. it doesnt have any kind of drive on it or anything but it looks as if a bolt has been sheared off of the top of it.

it has no other screws on it, other than what i think are all jets? inside the float chamber.

Quote:
I do know that is the mixture is set at 1.5 turns out at stock.


i cannot see any other screws, where is this usually located?
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laurencem wrote:

i cannot see any other screws, where is this usually located?


I think you are both talking about the same screw i.e. the broken one!

Pics please!! Smile
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lozza
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont have a camera to take a pic of mine, but this is the same model carb as mine and the screw im talking about is the one circled in red.

there is no screw head on it, but a small stump about 5 mil inside the hole.

the big screw to the left of it is there though...
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Robby
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go with a clogged up mixture circuit. To clean this you need to remove the mixture screw, which by the sound of it is broken. Difficult.
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lozza
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 15 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I would go with a clogged up mixture circuit. To clean this you need to remove the mixture screw, which by the sound of it is broken. Difficult.


thanks for the input geez!

lets say for example, i manage to drill the screw and get it out, could you explain further your clogged up mixture circuit theory?

i only have a basic understanding of how carbs work.

thanks
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 00:30 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Esoteric1 wrote:
Quote, "after it dies for the last time it wont start again unless the plug is changed".

Just clean the plug with wet and dry paper and leave a 3 mill gap between contacts.

I have to say it does sound like a carb issue.


I think that should read 0.3mm gap
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 08:24 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laurencem wrote:
i dont have a camera to take a pic of mine, but this is the same model carb as mine and the screw im talking about is the one circled in red.

there is no screw head on it, but a small stump about 5 mil inside the hole.

the big screw to the left of it is there though...


right, well that is the slow running mixture screw. obviously not ideal, but I'd say that as long as it is making a seal, I doubt there is ever enough adjustment there to change total fueling significantly ..

I'd be looking more at float height and float valve seal.
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Esoteric1 wrote:
Quote, "after it dies for the last time it wont start again unless the plug is changed".

Just clean the plug with wet and dry paper and leave a 3 mill gap between contacts.

I have to say it does sound like a carb issue.


I think that should read 0.3mm gap


Your probably right, just like a bigger cap with old two srokes.
Lets strike a deal and say 2 milli.
____________________
Once made equal to man, woman becomes his superior.
The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Esoteric1 wrote:


Your probably right, just like a bigger cap with old two srokes.
Lets strike a deal and say 2 milli.


Most plug gaps will be <1mm with 0.5-0.8mm being the most common band ....

3mm I doubt it'd spark ... or at least at any sensible time!! Wink
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lozza
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any pointers on how to check float height, the manual says you need a special tool. Cant see what i can do to measure it... Not sure how to get the float pin out either?
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scroll down for instructions. Something about 13mm.
https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/yamaha-tech/urgent-help-needed-carb-leaking-50217


I would use HOT water, hold upright,pour water into where the petrol goes to see if any overflows through the over flow pipe.
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Once made equal to man, woman becomes his superior.
The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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lozza
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Esoteric1 wrote:

I would use HOT water, hold upright,pour water into where the petrol goes to see if any overflows through the over flow pipe.


yes, alot of water poured through the overflow. so where do i go from here, adjust the float pins to close the valve sooner?

EDIT: when first filling it up, all the water in the fuel feed would overfill the float bowl and run out of the overflow on the bottom.

however, once it had finished running out of the overflow after the first fill up, water poured into the fuel feed would not drain into the float bowl it would just sit there as if it was blocked, and no water came from the overflow pipe.

so it looks as if the float valve is working...

is it possible for the float valve to work in that it will stop the fuel from overflowing the bowl, but still allow enough in to flood the carb...?
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lozza
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

just some more info to help, the throttle needle is set on the 2nd notch from top

the jet size is 135
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 16 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct, give all the holes a good blow out to with the lungs.

You want plenty of fuel in the float chamber without it spilling over.

(13mm on the NSR) did you scroll down and see the measurements and how to set the float hight. You hold the card upside down and set the measurements.

(13mm on the NSR) https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/yamaha-tech/urgent-help-needed-carb-leaking-50217

I think there is other info there too for screw settings.
idle screw, mixture screw ECT.
____________________
Once made equal to man, woman becomes his superior.
The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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lozza
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 17 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Esoteric1 wrote:
Correct, give all the holes a good blow out to with the lungs.

You want plenty of fuel in the float chamber without it spilling over.

(13mm on the NSR) did you scroll down and see the measurements and how to set the float hight. You hold the card upside down and set the measurements.

I think there is other info there too for screw settings.
idle screw, mixture screw ECT.


i checked that guys profile and he has an NSR 250.

in the manual for the JC20 (late 80's - early 90's) NSR 125 it says the float heigh should be 24mm, which mine measures as, and after spilling out from the first initial fillup, it appears to stop the flow into the float chamber...

im thinking maybe it could be my broken pilot screw which is causing a problem...

when i had the bike running nicely for a few hours after i took it out from the garage, it performed well at high revs, but would sometimes randomly splutter to a stall when i pulled out of junctions at low revs - say around 2000 - 3000 revs.

it wasnt just stalling because of the load though because when i heard it splutter i would pull the clutch in and give it some throttle and the engine would continue to splutter untill either stalling or picking up the revs to about 4000 +

the screw is used to control the slow running mixture which would correspond with the bike running shitty at low revs...

i have to say though, it wasnt always running badly at low revs. when i first had it running it would happily idle away at 1500. although i suspect it gradually got weaker as the plug was being fouled.

well, im going to clean the carb up today, and buy a new plug - not irridium this time. and see if that gets the bike running for another few hours, if it does then im going to have to consider buying a new carb on ebay...
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 17 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

K. no worries, didn't know the year of your bike and though float hight on NSR's would be a universal thing. They must have changed significantly over he years.

If it runs ok over 4000 revs this indicated to me it may be in need of a top end rebuild. The reason I say this is because the faster two strokes rev the less mixture they lose through the exhaust port which gives a lot more power. This is why it may seem to run good in higher revs.
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Once made equal to man, woman becomes his superior.
The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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lozza
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 17 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Esoteric1 wrote:
K. no worries, didn't know the year of your bike and though float hight on NSR's would be a universal thing. They must have changed significantly over he years.


well i have a 2000 model but i imagine theyre similar carbs

Quote:
If it runs ok over 4000 revs this indicated to me it may be in need of a top end rebuild. The reason I say this is because the faster two strokes rev the less mixture they lose through the exhaust port which gives a lot more power. This is why it may seem to run good in higher revs


how would i go about testing whether or not i need a top end rebuild, compression test?

i dont want to rush into anything like that without being certain - its not like it always ran bad at low revs, just occasionally splutters and ends up stalling when under load even with clutch pulled in.
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SillyMe
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 17 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you can do is put the bike into first gear and push it, if it moves easy enough and the back wheel doesn't lock up then it's likely to be a top end rebuild job. Compression will verify this if your able to have one done.

Also that would be low idle plus other carb related issues which your addressing and/or the top end of the engine andpower valve may be choked up with carbon.

Found these, you could give them a try .
Just wait for the time to elapse as a free user.
https://rapidshare.com/#!download|701|228170550|NSR_125_Service_manual.rar|63140

https://rs788tl3.rapidshare.com/#!download|788|362862382|pdftown.com_NSRmanual.zip|66188
____________________
Once made equal to man, woman becomes his superior.
The man who says "I may be wrong, but -" does not believe there can be any such possibility

Owned and rode: Honda 100H, Honda MBX 125, Kawasaki AR 125, Suzuki RG 125 Pepsi, Honda NSR125 RK, Honda NRS 125 race bike, Suzuki GSXR 400 Bandit, Aprilia RS 125 O2, Honda CG125, Kawasaki KMX 125, Aprilia RS 125 O6, Suzuki XT225 and now Honda XR 400. ( A few scooters and other dead beats in between)
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