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Electrical Problems on NSR125R! ***FIXED***

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c058y
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Joined: 17 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Electrical Problems on NSR125R! ***FIXED*** Reply with quote

After striping down the bodywork and doing a major clean of the whole bike I began putting it back together again. Before I got started I thought I'd just check the thing still works.

You will never guess what? It doesn't!!! Sad

I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with electrics. The battery is fully charged, I'm sure of that. I have checked most of the connections, mainly the ones under the fuel tank and airbox, unfortunately no response.

Picture this, I turn on the ignition and nothing happens! No lights, no nothing! Not even the little black box (exhast valve?)to the right of the carburetor doesn't turn round!

Any ideas? Main areas to check? Fuses?

Please help!!!!

Thank You in advance!

c058y


Last edited by c058y on 20:37 - 23 Aug 2004; edited 1 time in total
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

check your main fuse, located in the wire running from the positive of the battery.


if the thin wire in side that glass tube of the fuse is broken the fuse has "blown" so replace with a new one all car shops/homebase etc sell them just state the rating (amps)
____________________
Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV


Last edited by tatters on 21:08 - 27 Jul 2004; edited 1 time in total
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alains
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 21:07 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: fuse Reply with quote

1) check the fuse (normally it's a 15A) if you have nothing to do it , pick a bit of cuper wire , turn your key on , they shunt the 2 ends and move a bit . if you see sparks , change the fuse . note that for 10 years , i never had a fuse gone .
2) check the poles of the battry , probably a loose contact . clean the poles with sand paper . then refit the connections
3) it's very rare but it happens you made a short circuit , test your battry again . 12.8 to 13.2 is sign of good charge
4) let me know
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



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PostPosted: 21:11 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

just to note, don,t short the fuse carrier out with cable, the fuse is there to protect the bikes circults and by shorting out could cause the wiring loom to fry,

and when you remove the battrey ALWAYS REMOVE THE NEGTIVE first on jap bikes before the postive, because the frame is negtive and you don,t want the postive to make contact with the frame (other way round for classic british bikes which postive is the frame)
____________________
Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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c058y
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Joined: 17 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
check your main fuse, located in the wire running from the positive of the battery.


I've checked the fuse, unbroken. To my supprise theres a spare one in there also. Very Happy

Also just wire brushed the contacts. On the positive connection there was a slight green corrosion, apart from that all seems fine!

I'm stumped! I don't fancy handing it over to my mechanic to ask him to sort this out! Sad
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

could be the CDI, l,ve had it before on a NSR125R, not sure how to check it l just changed mine over and it worked,



wd40 on connections, and checking supply to the ingestion with a multi meter is all l can suggest
____________________
Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: loose contact Reply with quote

if not light goes on when you put contact , this is the battry or battry connection . check the negative , refit it after cleaning . then take the + off , turn your key on , then put the + wire in contact with the + battry , if you do not see sparks , it's either flat battry or main negative connection off . let me know
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c058y
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The CDI, thats the unit just under the grab rail right?

If thats the case I have just had one delivered today after buying it off ebay. All connected, no difference.

I have looked at the technical diagrams on www.nsr125.com, playing close attention to the wiring loom, and no joy there.

Any other ideas?

Quote:
and when you remove the battrey ALWAYS REMOVE THE NEGTIVE first on jap bikes before the postive, because the frame is negtive and you don,t want the postive to make contact with the frame (other way round for classic british bikes which postive is the frame)


You learn something new everyday. I never knew this. Do you think me not knowing this may have caused a problem?
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

you would got a spark and the fuse would of blown if the postive made contact with the frame, so unlikey,
____________________
Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

its is a basic safety precaution to remove the positive first to prevent damage to the electrical system, and especaily on a motorcycle which is a Zone 1 area with petrol involed.


by the way l,m a Zone 0 quailtyed electrical engineer and have worked in numerous explosive enviroments
____________________
Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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c058y
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
then take the + off , turn your key on , then put the + wire in contact with the + battry , if you do not see sparks , it's either flat battry or main negative connection off . let me know


Tried this, no spark.

I don't have a meter to check the state of the battery but when i connect it to the batery charger it says the battery is fully charged.

Whats the main negative connection?
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c058y
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 27 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may sound silly, but how do i check if has been earthed correctly? Where do i check? Embarassed
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alains
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 01:21 - 28 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've never seen a charger showing a fully charged battry . you must now borrow a voltmeter somewhere & check the voltage . a battry is composed with 6 elements which are 2.2 V when fully charged and 1.8 when low so the Voltage is 13.2 high and 10.8 low . after some use a 12.8 v fully charge is good enough . Do not worry when you charge it is the Voltmeter shows little flood inside the battry , it will go up after 1H or to . anyway do not try to charge quickly (not more than 2A ) you will destroy it .
to check if your battry has some power , take a piece (1 foot) of insulated cuper wire , take off a bit of insulating at each end , then stay in contact with the + at one end and with the other end scrap on the negative , if no sparks your battry is dead or discharged
let me know about the results
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c058y
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 28 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
take a piece (1 foot) of insulated cuper wire , take off a bit of insulating at each end , then stay in contact with the + at one end and with the other end scrap on the negative , if no sparks your battry is dead or discharged
let me know about the results



Alains, I tried this today with a piece of copper wire and sparks were created, so in theory there is still power in the battery, but still not starting.

I have bought a multimeter off ebay today so I will see how much power the battery is giving off by the end of the week.

Quote:
Check where the negative wire from the battery goes, or if you can't see, run a new dummy wire from the negative electrode on the battery to a main part of the frame. (Metal part )


Jammy-G, the negative wire runs in to the wiring loom never to be seen again. I ran a dummy wire with another piece of copper wire from the negative terminal to the frame, but still no joy.

Thanks for all your advice so far.

If you have any ideas just let me know. I CANT let this beat me Laughing

Cheers

c058y
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swampy
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 04 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had exactly the same trouble on my nsr, it turns out that there was a corroded connection in the loom where two live wires join into a single live wire. (i found this by wiggling the loom more in hope than expectation, and suddenly the lights came on, and went off when i wiggled a particular bit.) I opened the tape on the loom, chopped out the bad bits, and soldered in a new piece of wire, and it seems to be ok now touch wood.... hope this helps Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 04 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have the kill switch on do you ???? Laughing

Whilst we are on dumbass things. You have the plastics off right? This would include the entire front fairing which includes the headlight and flashers along with a variety of other bits of wiring that would normally be connected to the bike??

The japanese are buggers for earthing vital circuits through stupid places (like brakelights and horns). Also in removing the plastics, you sure you haven't dislodged something behind the clocks/dash? It is most likley going to be in the part of the circuit taking power to the ignition switch from the battery to make EVERYTHING fail.

Another place to check is the starter solenoid (follow the big fat wire from the battery positive, it will attach to the top of the solenoid). Many bikes run all the power to the rest of the bike through this area and the terminals do corrode, some (not sure about your bike) also have a fuse on them.

Look round the headstock and under the tank for signs of the loom rubbing through ant trapped wires under any bits you have put back on.

You may land up with everyones favourite....pulling the connectors apart one at a time, cleaning them with emery paper and reassembling with a smear of copper grease...takes a long time!

Whatever you do, if you pull something apart, put it back together before taking some other bit apart and forgetting where everything goes. Otherwise if you take it to a sparky at a later date, they will kick your arse for you.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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c058y
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Joined: 17 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 05 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your help guys! Very Happy

I still haven't managed to fix the problem. The only thing left to check would be a loose connection within the loom. Unfortunately not enough hours in the day Crying or Very sad

Well it looks like my mechanic is gonna have a search on his hands! Smile

By the way I didnt have the kill switch on! Shocked

Once again I thank you for all your help!

I'll put up a post after my mechanic has figured out whats wrong. It better not be something really stupid.

Cheers all

c058y
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Honda_nutter
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 06 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 06 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.
I just the exact problem with my NSR125. Luckily my dad is an engineer so he sorted the problem rather quick. Wot it turned out to be was the wire between the battery and the ignition switch as when they manufacture the bike they put a cable tie so hard on the connection to the ignition swith, Try is it out.
Put a voltmeter over it with the negative on the battery and the positive on the ignition switch.
If it is sumthin like 12v when the ignition is off but when you put the ignition on, though the lights dont go on, it drops in voltage then this is your problem.
let me know
regards
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Matt
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c058y
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 12 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have my bike back now, running like a dream!

It turned out to be corroded wires within the loom. My mechanic had a major search om his hands. There were three wires disconnected. Although it did take him a while to locate them.

I never would have found the problem myself but it has taken a chunk out of my bank balance now.

Thanks for all your help guys.

c058y
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