Bandit (minor) project help

[yuri2085]

Its looking like I will be properly up and about in a couple of weeks (or less), so I am looking to repair the damage to the bike and do a couple of things I had been putting off. (which may or may not have contributed to the accident).


Accident damage which I need advice for is just exhaust (pic attached). It looks to me like I just need a new can. I really liked the sound of this one, I don't mind something quieter but I wouldn't want anything louder though- if anyone has any suggestions of something not too pricey would be wonderful.

The main problem I have is my suspension, it was buggered before hand, and before the ride where I crashed I cranked the pre load on the rear to max and possibly (correct me if this is codswallop) caused the bike to be a little twitchy.
The rear shock is knackered and my mate (not fat but a heavy lad) can bottom out the front forks when sitting on the bike stationary.
So really what is the best way of going about sorting the suspension. My mechanical skills + friends mean I am more than capable of fitting a new rear shock, and I was thinking of just new oil and springs on the front forks. My only concern was am I likely to set this up all wrong and would I be better off paying a rather silly amount for a company to fit + setup my suspension for me.

I don't need it too 'perfect' like a race setup, although I would like it suitable for spirited riding. Again, any general advice on the problem would be much appreciated.


Thanks.

[2Smoke]

Hi, its pretty easy to change the fork oil and springs provided you have the correct tools. So long as you take your time with it there's no reason for it to be a nightmare. Race Tech do good spring upgrades, coupled with some heavier fork oil you could firm the front up nicely..

It would be worth seeing what other rear shocks will fit the bandit, (ie gsxr?) you could get a very fresh shock for peanuts as racers tend to change them when the bike is new. Bit of research could come up trumps!
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Currently in the stable.. '89 TDR250, 86 NSR250 '79 350LC, '79 DT175MX, 82, Pasola, '98 R1, '95 Speed Triple.. all of them total sheds..

[yuri2085]

I really could use some advice on how important suspension setup is on the road, along with (if i'm lucky) some elaboration on the points 2smoke touched on.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Front forks are easy enough to do. Difficult bit is supporting the bike, and threading the forks back through the brackets for the headlight.

However I am VERY surprised than someone can bottom the forks out just sitting on the bike. That would require very soft fork springs and I don't see that happening from normal wear (maybe snapped springs). Budget on new springs.

Don't use thicker oil to make the suspension harder, the oil is just there to damp out the movement from the springs. You can use slightly more oil to reduce the air gap above the forks to stiffen them up a touch, but don't go too far or you will land up with blowing the seals or solid forks As the forks compress the volume inside them has to reduce, and that can only happen by the air compressing, and a smaller volume of air is harder to compress).

Stiffening up the rear suspension will make the front end lower in relation to the back, making the steering angle steeper and the bike less stable. Added to which stiffer suspension will likely give less grip and slide more easily (but go too soft and the damping won't be able to control the movement, again giving you less grip).

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[DrDonnyBrago]

Sucks to hear about your bike, but are you sure you can't shorten the end can and keep on using it?

Looks a little beat up at the base but you could possibly cut out a few inches, rivet the caps back on, cut the old mount off as it would now be in the wrong place and use an exhaust strap to hold it - depends on what the setup is inside it really.


Failing that, scorpion cans are cheap and from my impression of the one on my bike they seem good quality, well made and sound nice etc.

Ah, and are you Mike's mate who crashed recently?

[yuri2085]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Yes it would increase twitchiness, but would expect it to cause other issues before that became too much of a worry (such as the back end sliding and / or bouncing all over the place).

They do need to be reasonable matched front and back, or compensated for in other ways (ie changing the ride height) unless you want other effects on the handling (ie, you might want it to be twitchier)

Preload can be changed using spacer above the springs (but this is just preload, not how strong the springs are), which can often be done easily using some suitable sized coins. Damping can be changed by changing the oil used.

Stiffer damping doesn't change how far the suspension moves, but affects how quickly it moves.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[yuri2085]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Race tracks are a lot smoother, hence they can get away with stiffer suspension.

I would just get some replacement springs close to the stock ones. Unless you know what you are doing you stand a good chance of making things worse (well, worse than stock)

Rear shock is more of an issue as they cost a fortune.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[dragstaar]

as for the can, get yourelf a Beowulf can. Well built, have one on my bandit. £155 brand new including hanging bracket and link pipes