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Will car oil work with bike ?

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hornetmike
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Will car oil work with bike ? Reply with quote

Can I use car oil in a 96 GPX600R, if so what grade ? will I get away with 5W30 ?

I work in BMW garage so can get Long life car oil cheap Smile
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always been told you can get away with car oil, providing it's at the right grade (i.e. the recommended one). Don't know what it is for your bike though, look it up in a Haynes/workshop manual imo.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:21 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes car oil is fine.

Normally 10-W-40 in a bike though. 5w-30 might be a bit thin.

I have a GPX600 manual here. It states 10w-40 or 10w-50 for cold climates and 20w-40 or 20w-50 in warm climates.

Should be SG grade which all car oils will exceed by a long way.

Avoid anything with fancy friction modifier additives as these can cause clutch slip.
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hornetmike
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers stinkwheel you the man. What about 10w40 magnetec ?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:31 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

shinyCBR wrote:
Cheers stinkwheel you the man. What about 10w40 magnetec ?


That's a no. I've used magantec in a GPZ500 and it caused LOADS of clutch slip due to the friction modifiers.

Ordinary GTX is absolutely fine.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I have used a fair few car oils in bikes. Over the last few years BP Visco 5000 synthetic, BP Visco 3000 semi synthetic, Castol GTX and a semi synthetic Rock Oil 10W40. None have caused clutch problems (OK, did once when the engine was tuned and being run in, but then so did brand new clutch plates and bike specific oil).

All the best

Keith
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used GTX in my TDM and it REALLY didn't like it, it felt like It was down on power the gear changes where really horrid it just felt wrong. I changed it after about 200 miles to bike oil and it was fine.

BUT, generally I'd listen to kickstart and stinkwheel, they know far more than I.

Maybe I had a bad batch or something but I would never use it again.
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was given by a very generous mate 6X5 litre 'cans' of Total Quartz 10w/40 semi-synth car oil, run my 250RSA on it for years, sadly at the end of it now. Tends to make the clutch drag a bit but otherwise no problems. If you've got a particularly exotic bike (or whatever you think qualifies as 'exotic') be best to use the specified lube I'd think but in my opinion there's a lot of BS about 'Super-Duper' stuff intended just to separate us from our dosh.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I asked the verry same in another forum only yesterday. As your bike is old then yes. Read this.

https://www.wisegeek.com/can-i-put-oil-for-a-car-into-my-motorcycle.htm
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Casper
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to say. I use tesco cheap 10w50 on my GS550 and GPz750 with no problem. The light blue tub. you get 4Lt for 12 quid.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put the same oil in my road bikes that they put in the diesel engined plant at work (Castrol 15/40 I think). Never have a problem and you can't get it cheaper than free Very Happy
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supZ
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Should be SG grade which all car oils will exceed by a long way.

Avoid anything with fancy friction modifier additives as these can cause clutch slip.


this is the very reason id avoid car oil.

most car oils have friction modifiers which should be avoided in a bike for the above reason. im sure there are a few that dont but personally id rather use something i know will work.

if you're concerned about price then get the HG branded oil. its rebranded motul. good stuff Smile use it in my trackbike
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doggone
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
I put the same oil in my road bikes that they put in the diesel engined plant at work (Castrol 15/40 I think). Never have a problem and you can't get it cheaper than free Very Happy


Unwise, oil for diesel engines is very different to petrol engine oil.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I noticed it isn't as oily as it doesn't have so much oil in it Very Happy
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doggone
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diesel engine oil has got more powerful detergent-like additives to remove carbon build up which otherwise occurs with a diesel motor.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Diesel engine oil has got more powerful detergent-like additives to remove carbon build up which otherwise occurs with a diesel motor.


It's also better at keeping particulates in suspension until they get taken out by the filter.

So more detergent to keep the engine clean, and better at keeping bits of clutch etc in suspension until it gets to the filter. This may be why Buell recommended it for use in their engines.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I like my engines clean inside Smile

Seriously though, if there are detergent additives added to diesel engine oil because diesel engines produce carbon deposits, they can't to do any harm to an engine that doesn't produce the deposits or you wouldn't be able to use that oil in a brand new diesel engine that hasn't yet had any carbon deposits deposited in it.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
This may be why Buell recommended it for use in their engines.


No it's because Buell engines are made from recycled Massey Fergusons Very Happy
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Last edited by Pete. on 19:09 - 05 Nov 2010; edited 1 time in total
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 05 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive used car oil, diesel oil, bike oil, whatever.

All works fine, all goes in then comes out after 5k miles looking black with a gold tinge.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 06 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was of the impression that if you introduced an oil containing detergents to an old engine that had previously only been run on non-detergent oils then noise problems could occur when carbon deposits and sludge were washed away from around bearings and shims.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 06 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
I was of the impression that if you introduced an oil containing detergents to an old engine that had previously only been run on non-detergent oils then noise problems could occur when carbon deposits and sludge were washed away from around bearings and shims.


Happens a lot when people nick oil from the army and bung it in their old car. Army oil has a reduculously high detergent content and after a short while it sounds like someone has emptied a bag of loose nuts and bolts into the engine.

Thing is, it's not actually damaging the engine, the engine was already worn, it's just you can now hear how worn it really was.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 06 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll do well to find any non-detergent oil these days - detergent has been common in engine oils for decades.
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