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My GX125 doesnt work!

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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: My GX125 doesnt work! Reply with quote

Hi, its Nemo posting on Paddys account, I cant seem to log in?

G dropped my bike off to Paddys yesterday as there are tools there and Paddy can work on it at the weekends.

There seems to be no compression.
Its definitely getting petrol to the carb, its turning over but I can hold my thumb over the spark plug hole and just feel it hitting with a breath of air. How can I find out exactly what it is?

Ive got some pics as ive found some oil/gunk over the top of the engine.

Also...if I need a new engine, the GX seems very hard to find..If some people here have a GS/EN engine, does this look identical?

Weird oil on engine...kind of oily but dirt at the same time.

https://img35.imageshack.us/i/img0259jq.jpg/

https://img132.imageshack.us/i/img0256rp.jpg/

https://img576.imageshack.us/i/img0257jd.jpg/

https://img696.imageshack.us/i/img0258sa.jpg/
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Re: My GX125 doesnt work! Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Hi, its Nemo posting on Paddys account, I cant seem to log in?

G dropped my bike off to Paddys yesterday as there are tools there and Paddy can work on it at the weekends.

There seems to be no compression.
Its definitely getting petrol to the carb, its turning over but I can hold my thumb over the spark plug hole and just feel it hitting with a breath of air. How can I find out exactly what it is?

Ive got some pics as ive found some oil/gunk over the top of the engine.

Also...if I need a new engine, the GX seems very hard to find..If some people here have a GS/EN engine, does this look identical?

Weird oil on engine...kind of oily but dirt at the same time.

https://img35.imageshack.us/img35/8286/img0259jq.jpg

https://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4749/img0256rp.jpg

https://img576.imageshack.us/img576/235/img0257jd.jpg

https://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3686/img0258sa.jpg


1) Adding <img> tags to make pics show, rather than links that open the hosting page, slowly, would be useful.

2) Low compression. sounds likely. Check the manual, it will tell you all the possible reasons. you do have one, dont you?

Three things hold the pressure in the pot. The piston rings, the head-gasket and the valves. If you dont have any compression, fault must be with one of them.

Head-Gasket may have gone. Could be old age, could also be that the head-studs holding it have relaxed over the years, or the head's waped due to overheating.

Valves. Valve seats worn. Valve burned, melted, or broken. Valve springs snapped, or weak.

Piston Rings. Bore worn to big for them to seal. Piston rings worn too thin for them to seal. Rings snapped.

Top end off, it you'll find out whats wrong with a little inspection and measureing, and whatever the fault is, it can normally be fixed fairly readily, and more ecconomically than a new engine.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 13:04 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys

It wouldnt let me add the img tag, it just broke the link Sad

I have no manual, like I said its a hard to find bike Laughing

I'll take top top off and see what I can see, if its a valve...simple. Much better than a whole top end.

I will have a look as soon as Paddy is back
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well we opened the engine.

Bore looks smooth as, piston doesnt have any movement whatsoever.

The piston is an odd shape though. I always thought a piston was fairly flat on the top... this one isnt, might see it in the pic.. very odd?

https://yesterdaystheory.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/16.JPG

The valves..look a total different colour.

https://yesterdaystheory.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/14.JPG
https://yesterdaystheory.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/12.JPG
https://yesterdaystheory.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/13.JPG
The rocker arms?? look worn

https://yesterdaystheory.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/15.JPG

Aside from that, thats all the work we have done.. I just await any info as to what it could be Smile
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely not the same engine as gs/gn/en/dr.

Clutch different side, oil filter different place. Top end looks the same though.

Pistons like that are common. Valves different colour because one is exhaust and one is inlet although I haven't seen any so different. Not 100% sure on that one.


I would check valve timing/clearances and piston rings. Those valves don't look to tasty either. Maybe not running the right mixture or something.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 19:42 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Definitely not the same engine as gs/gn/en/dr.

Clutch different side, oil filter different place. Top end looks the same though.

Pistons like that are common. Valves different colour because one is exhaust and one is inlet although I haven't seen any so different. Not 100% sure on that one.


I would check valve timing/clearances and piston rings. Those valves don't look to tasty either. Maybe not running the right mixture or something.


Just the guy I was waiting for Thumbs Up

Its proper stumped me...The rings seem like they are fine, but there was next to no compression.

Bike was running then just stopped...no mechanical clunks just lost power and turned off.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weird. To run, an engine needs compression, fuel and spark. You say no compression but from what you just said it sounds like it is a fuel/electrical problem Laughing

First check if it is sparking, simple to check and gets electrical issue out the way.


Can you put your hand over the top of the bore and turn it over to see if the rings are leaking?
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

regrind the valves
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Re: My GX125 doesnt work! Reply with quote

I've just had a 'Ker-Chunk' moment
##Paddy## wrote:
Ive got some pics as ive found some oil/gunk over the top of the engine.

No one adjusted the tappets recently did they?
A poorly fitted rocker cover could explain gunk over the engine.
zero valve clerence, or even negative clerance iff too thick a feeler guage was wedged under the rocker compressing the valve spring, could have been holding valves open....

Should have thought about it. Its not been unheard of....

Actually only just avoided it the other day when snowie was doing the tappets on teh Super-Dream... book said 0.025mm.... she first found the 0.025 inch feeler, then the 0.25mm feeler.....

Twenty odd years ago, had a mate do similar thing with the feelers setting the tappets on a morris minor. No idea what they are supposed to be, 20 thou rings a bell though (might be the points gap though!) about half a mm. anyway, he'd got a very thick feeler and becouse he could wedge it between the valve stem and tappet, to HIM that was a 'sliding fit', even though I could actually see the valve spring de-compressing as he pulled it out!
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Re: My GX125 doesnt work! Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
I've just had a 'Ker-Chunk' moment
##Paddy## wrote:
Ive got some pics as ive found some oil/gunk over the top of the engine.

No one adjusted the tappets recently did they?
A poorly fitted rocker cover could explain gunk over the engine.
zero valve clerence, or even negative clerance iff too thick a feeler guage was wedged under the rocker compressing the valve spring, could have been holding valves open....


That is what Rob said above. Happened to me. CHR15 didn't tighten the locknut up on my inlet valve, it undid and wedged that valve open. I thought it was time for a new top end. Fortunately it was just £6 on a new tappet and locknut.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 22:31 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Weird. To run, an engine needs compression, fuel and spark. You say no compression but from what you just said it sounds like it is a fuel/electrical problem Laughing

First check if it is sparking, simple to check and gets electrical issue out the way.


Can you put your hand over the top of the bore and turn it over to see if the rings are leaking?


Def sparking and def getting fuel.

By put hand over the bore.. what exactly do you mean..
Thumb on plug hole indicated very very little compression.

No one has adjusted any valves, no one has adjusted a thing, Nemo doesnt have the tools and ive only whipped it off.

The actual rockers?? have big flat spots where they feel very worn.
I can do the valve clearances now its all apart..reassembly takes like 10 minutes. If i knew what they are meant to be it would be alot easier. A manual is VERY hard to find
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clearances are 0.13mm give or take 0.02 I think.

I always forget which one is supposed to be slightly bigger.


The bits of the rocker that contact the camshaft should feel worn as they are always in contact with it and you adjust the clearances to counter the wear.

I would be more worried about the state of the actual valves. If you can, take them out and have a close inspection of the stems and seats.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 22:40 - 18 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Clearances are 0.13mm give or take 0.02 I think.

I always forget which one is supposed to be slightly bigger.


The bits of the rocker that contact the camshaft should feel worn as they are always in contact with it and you adjust the clearances to counter the wear.

I would be more worried about the state of the actual valves. If you can, take them out and have a close inspection of the stems and seats.


I will do mate, the bikes covered 25,000 miles of learner/pikey abuse Laughing
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 19:06 - 19 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably going to have a go at getting the valves out and seeing if its worth regrinding.

Any votes on that being a probable issue?

I suppose to test I could just whip the head back on, reuse gasket and a bit of gasket sealant, bolt it down hard and just see if it has compression without using the valves? My boss was telling me today and I kinda forgot half of it Sad
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 10:31 - 20 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suppose while its off, i'll do it.

Where can i pick up the stuff to do it? Ive got grinding paste...but not anything else.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 10:49 - 20 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea why you jumped into taking the head off. To do the job properly you need to use a new head gasket, and scrape off all of the old one. Gasket goo is no good for a head gasket, if the goo is strong enough then it'll be horrible to remove.

Now you have the head off you might as well regrind the valves and fit a new base gasket.

If that doesn't fix the problem, I'd look at fuelling. Water in the carb could cause a sudden stop, as could something as simple as running out of fuel or a flat (or low) battery.

So, go a good job of the top end rebuild, strip and clean the carb, and drain some of the fuel from the tank into a clean plastic jug and look for evidence of water or dirt in the tank.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 20 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

##Paddy## wrote:
Suppose while its off, i'll do it.

Where can i pick up the stuff to do it? Ive got grinding paste...but not anything else.


Grinding pasts and sucker stick? that'll be 'lapping' the valves, not grinding them.

Basically a course polish and was traditional when you de-coked and engine, to clean the valve seats up.

Not really done much these days. Valves and seats are made of harder metal becouse of unleaded petrol, while we dont get the same soot deposits.

You can do it, and it'll make the valve seats nice and shiney, but a propper regrind is to put the sharp edges back on the valve head and seat, and that's a job for a M/C shop. On a two valve single, they'll probably only charge a tenner so, if you have stripped the head, micgh teveb do teh valves as well for you.

Can lap them after for a super fine finish if you like, but these days there's not much to be gained from it.

Might as well ask them about skimming it whilst your there, make sure the head-gasket face is flat for when you fit it all back up....

Does beg the question whether to go the whole hog though, and see if the valve guides need replacing, cos if you do that anawl, you got a fullt reconditioned head1
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 19:05 - 22 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

bumpage..

removed the exhaust valve (smaller white one) from the head...
There appears to be a lovely crack running around where we removed it. I didnt think it looked square at all and I think I can see why Laughing

Any idea what head is identical...the GX seems to be one of these hard to find bits.

It cant be to different from a GS, i mean its roughly the same power...
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 23 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks pretty much the same as the GS and all its variations.
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Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 09:58 - 24 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Looks pretty much the same as the GS and all its variations.


Only thing bothering me is when you said the actual engine looks different, bottom end wise.

If the top end is the same, i'll be ordering myself a cylinder head, unless you have one?
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 24 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

PM Marki. Top end looks exactly the same, bottom end definitely isn't.
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