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VTRkemshell10...
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Joined: 22 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Tyres Reply with quote

Whats the best tyres for a 2006 Honda CG125?

it suggest the city demon but does anybody no if they are anygood or are there better out there? e.g more grip or last abit longer - only out the back tyre on new 2k miles ago and already on the legal limit so want to get it sorted ASAP with winter being here!
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Paulington
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all, tyres can either have:

More grip, but last less time.
Less grip, but last more time.

There is no tyre that can do both, it's impossible, there are compromises but that's the best you'll get.

Take a look here, they have some tyre recommendations and I find it very hard to believe that you've only gotten 2k miles out of a brand new tyre on a CG125 unless it was made of cheese. Laughing. I'd expect a CG rear to last 6-10k miles and a front to do 12-16k miles.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulington wrote:
I'd expect a CG rear to last 6-10k miles and a front to do 12-16k miles.


Id expect near 10 at the rear easy..my CBR did 10k on its last rear Laughing
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

CG Tyres last for ever.
You can get more for the old tyres than the bike when you sell it. Smile

Michelin do good tyres pound per mile is good and well grippy enough for the bike.

There are not many tyre makes available for this machine so you are limited by make and price I guess.

I recently ordered a pair of Michelins for a CG125 I think the old tyres were the original factory fit.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michelin Pilot Sporty. See this review for why: https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/michelin_pilot_sporty.htm

And after trying them myself on the YBR, which uses the same sizes as the CG, I can confirm everything he says about it. Compared to the City Demons, which I used previously for over 33'000 miles (got around 8'000 miles per rear, 16'000 per front), they're a million times better in every single way.

I have ridden around 150 miles with them now and they are absolutely awesome. Didn't feel at all insecure during the 'scrubbing in' period. In fact, they are so sticky, that we had trouble getting the bead to pop out properly when inflating them, but overall, my friend who fitted them said they were pretty easy to get on with levers (especially since the YBR has alloy wheels). It took a lot of re-inflating and WD40 to get the bead to seat properly. Maybe this was also due to the cold weather - we changed them outside.

Everything said in that review regarding handling, cornering, grip, comfort and braking ability is incredibly accurate and I have to agree with it 100%. Lean angles are far tighter and turning circles are smaller, at faster speeds than the City Demons. The bike really 'wants' to go into turns now, and I've found myself flicking it about with absolute ease, especially when filtering. So much so that I noticed I was filtering faster than usual - around 5-10mph faster, but the level of control I had in manoeuvring was fantastic. I can really see how they would tempt someone into going beyond the limits of their riding ability, as these tyres don't seem to have any limits! When braking heavily, the bike stops so quickly, it's unbelievable - also a lifesaver when filtering and some blind moron pulls out on you.

One thing I noticed is that slow control is so much easier and less 'wobbly'. I mean, with the City Demons, when going VERY slowly, say 2-3mph, the front would want to go all over the place. With these bad boys, it's straight as an arrow all the time. I thought I had poor balance or control, now I know it was the tyres... Also, today I loaded up the passenger seat with a massive bag of rabbit food, which felt like a small passenger. With the Demons, handling would suffer but not any more. Cornering was just the same as when I'm riding with no luggage/read loading. I am really going to enjoy my commute again...
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulington wrote:
First of all, tyres can either have:
More grip, but last less time.
Less grip, but last more time.
There is no tyre that can do both, it's impossible, there are compromises but that's the best you'll get.

Err, generally true, but there are exeptions to prove the rule, and a lot of tyres that prove the converse, neither gripping, nor lasting....

2K on a tiddler dont sound healthy. OE rubber often outlasts the bike! Generally becouse the OE fit is a very hard ecconomy compound, favoured by far eastern markets where roads dont have tarmac so a better tyre wouldn't offer much more grip anyway.

But even so, a sticky tiddler tyre should last a good 3-4K or more, unless its abused or faulty.

Have you checked the chain adjustment? / Looked for fouling on the swing arm? often if a link or two is taken out of the chain to shorten it when its stretched so far that full adjustment is reached, wheel can be sat so close to the swing-arm that at speed, it'll expand and rub, even if it doesn't when spun on the side-stand, especially if its not the reccomended size fitment. Also tyre pressures, and wheel alignment. Do you check the wheel's straight in the swing-arm after adjusting the chain, by the index marks, or by eye/feel... or is this gibberish to you? (if so, could be the root cause of the problem!)

End of the day, theres loads of tyres out there, and if it was one of the cheapo £16 'Ecconomy' tyres of e-bay, its possible its one of those that prove the exception, neither gripping nor lasting.

But moving up the market, you have the more reputable budget brands like Chen-Shin, which last, but dont grip, or the premier brands like Mitch Pilots or Pirelli Deamons, that cost more, but grip much better, if they dont last quite as well.

Personally, I'd go for the deamons or the pilots. A pair should cost you around £75ish. Its twice the price of a pair of cheapo ebay tyres, but they will grip, and probably last longer, saved abuse or fault.
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neil.
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you'll have trouble sourcing a pair of City Demons at the moment (which is one reason I started to do more research and went for the Pilot Sportys), because there are huge supply issues from Brazil at Pirelli's end of things, according to a few suppliers I was trying to order them from.

Got my Sportys from www.nationalbiketyres.co.uk £85 for the pair, delivered, which was the best price I could find. Aparantly they should last a similar mileage to the Demons, although time will tell in my case.

As for Cheng Shin... absolute death traps, and I can't believe Yamaha were so irresponsible that they put them on a learner's bike! Going from them to the Demons was a revelation, but going to the Sportys has been an epiphany.
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fiery tupp
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 27 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might get some pilot sporty, as YBR stock tyres have bad Karma reports . Are they tubed / tubeless or can they be used with either ? Confused
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

rusty sprocket wrote:
I might get some pilot sporty, as YBR stock tyres have bad Karma reports . Are they tubed / tubeless or can they be used with either ? Confused


They need tubes.

I normally try to fit a new tube with a new tyre.

Reliabilty is built/designed into equipment. It's not luck. Smile
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neil.
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pilot Sportys are tubeless (that's what they say on the side) but can be used with tubed rims like the CG and YBR (they also say words to this effect on the side too). Thumbs Up
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fiery tupp
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers , my ybr has tubless wheels , 08 model , so I can go either way then . Meaning if I get tubes can do myself or its tyrefitters if I go for the other way . What would be the best option as I've never had dealings with tubless tyres ?
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neil.
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the rim is tubeless then I wouldn't put tubes in. I have the '05/06 YBR which is definitely tubed. Go with what the rim requires. Thumbs Up

Edit: https://www.michelin.co.uk/motorcycles/michelin-pilot-sporty

Click the sizes tab - you'll see that the sizes you need (90/90 - 18 57P rear and 2.75 - 18 42P front) are tubeless or tubed (it's one tyre that fits both), but other sizes are tubed only.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the tyre was tubeless but putting on a spoke rim then you would need a tube anyway as the air would escape through the holes!

Also the rim must be suitable for the rubber valves that are fitted in general.

As its a YBR with assuming alloys then you can go both ways anyway.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can change a tubed tyre then changing a tubeless tyre is the same or easier as you have no tube to nip. Embarassed
Fit a new valve assembly.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
If you can change a tubed tyre then changing a tubeless tyre is the same or easier as you have no tube to nip. Embarassed
Fit a new valve assembly.



Except the bead on a tubeless rim needs a hell of a lot of force to pop it off...
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
Walloper wrote:
If you can change a tubed tyre then changing a tubeless tyre is the same or easier as you have no tube to nip. Embarassed
Fit a new valve assembly.



Except the bead on a tubeless rim needs a hell of a lot of force to pop it off...


And you can get a G-clamp around those tyres. Even if they are tight.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 28 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 2 methods..
Let my mate Chris do it, he's a tyre fitter...
If the tyre is fooked then some blocks of wood and the car's front wheel can pop the bead, careful with the placement of the top block of wood though.


I might have to buy some new G clamps, I've not had to use either method on my own bike (CG uses tubes and SV came with new tyres, although they hate water and I'm not daft enough to try them on ICE)
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