cg wiring toughy

[N cee thirty]

got the new loom etc for my new 2008 engine,but its fail

as soon as you switch the ignition on it blows the fuse,replaced the 20A fuse with a 30A fuse and the ignition key wires starts to burn,unplug the cdi and it doesn't do this

abit vague,but anyone any ideas ?
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[mr.kris]

wireing is voodoo ! if its only the CDI pluged in thats doing it try to borow a CDI form someone else see if that fixes it if not just start again
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TS50X---CM125---MZ150---Z250---RS125---ZXR250---BANDIT600---TRX850---TL1000S---CBF600---ZX6R---BANDIT1200S---CG125---VFR800---CBR1000F---CG125---CG125---CB900F---CB900F---CG125---TUONO1000R---KLR600---GSX1300R HAYABUSA---VFR400NC30---BANDIT1200---CG125

HAYABUSA now in use!

[Pete.]

Not a great idea as you might have fried your own CDi so borrowing one to try would have you needing to replace a pair.

You can't fix a blowing fuse with a larger fuse either - that's a recipe for melted loom. You should find the cause of the blown fuse and fix that!

Get the wiring diagrams for your year bike and the year of the donor loom's bike and compare them before going any further.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Pete.]

If you have replaced every last thing I would look for a problem with the installation, i.e. a trapped wire.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[robocog]

Is that an ES4 model?

(5 pin CDI?)

If so ...
https://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/wiring/cg_ES_4_wiring.jpg

in fact it may help just in case the CDI's are different between models wiring wise...or maybe theres something like a difference in the main switch (as I cannot be arsed to compare right now)

https://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/wiring/cg_W_wiring.jpg

https://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/wiring/cg_M-1_wiring.jpg

Think these are the only CDI'd diagrams I have for the CG

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[N cee thirty]

no,its a square 4 pin :/ ES-7
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[N cee thirty]

https://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/robyarr/DSC00818.jpg

theres nothing to plug in to the 2 pins on there own though :s
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[robocog]

M1 seems to have 4 wires going to the CDI

What colour wires do you have going to yours?

Have had a look at the M1 diagram and I cannot quite suss out whats going on
I'm not 100% sure they have printed the ignition switch right as I cannot see how the CDI is getting (12v DC ) power with the ignition on but can see its beng fed with it in the off position
(maybe I'm just tired!)

Red blue only appears to get power with the ingition in the off position ! (maybe a typo for the ingition switch positions?)

Other things noted is that the ES 4 power feed (also red and blue) is coming straight from the generator (so AC rather than DC input!)

The extra wire on the ES4's CDI (black and white) is the ignition off switch

W model is the same as the ES4 (eg same colours)
and power on the red black is direct fed (AC?) from the genny ...but looks like the black/red and black/white feeds go to different pins on the CDI

Did you get the ingition switch and loom and CDI as one package?

Common colours between them all though so something to chomp on and get the meter on

Black and red = power (AC for W and ES4, DC for M1)
Black and white = engine stop when shorted to ground
Green = ground
Blue and yellow = pickup coil (input)
Black and yellow = output to ignition coil

(disclaimer is that all this info has come from Haynes so I'm not responsible if this is not the case in reality)

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[N cee thirty]

for the cdi there is a blue and yellow,red and black,green,black and yellow

bought ignition barrel seperate but was the exactly same as the old broken one,bought the cdi seperate aswell
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[robocog]

Block diagrams.....

Been staring at the 3 schematics and noticed something (which could be my imagination)

Looking at the CDI "representations" all 3 show 2 sets of pins
(like your picture with 4 and 2 pins)

M1 shows just the 4 pins being used in the one block and the other 2 pins in the other block going nothing (and seems to be a DC feed)

The ES4 and W models seem to utilise both blocks of pins and are AC fed (and only have the 3 pins used in teh 4 pin block)

either that or they are perhaps showing 2 quite different CDI units being used
M1 being a 4pin and 2 pins type
W and ES4 being a 3pin and 2 pin type

I have a CDI CG125 here and I'm pretty sure mine is fed with AC direct from the genny

Regards
Rob
____________________
Needs a bigger garage...

[N cee thirty]

just looked,the blue and yellow goes down to the generator in the engine
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[robocog]

so its the same as the M1 diagram!

Cast your eye over it as this is how that one seems to work (unlike the others)

12v DC its on
12 DC off it stops

I really do believe they have misslabelled the ingition switch in that diagram so that off and lock positions are actually on and vice versa

Will have a quick look at my DCI (which should be the AC feed version) and see if its one set of 4 and one set of 2 pins like yours ...or completely different

Regards
Rob
____________________
Needs a bigger garage...

[robocog]

blue yellow is the pickup coil (so it knows where in the stroke the engine is so knows when to fire)

I'm guessing the important bit is sussing out whether its being fed with AC or DC ...and on the right pin!
(and that the CDI is the same on both the versions)

as thats the bit that seems to be different between the 2 types

Regards
Rob
____________________
Needs a bigger garage...

[robocog]

Mine IS fed with AC...

CDI looks identical to yours (4 pins and 2 pins)
ONLY 3 of the 4 pin terminals is being used
both of the 2 pins are being used

My guess is that you can feed the CDI either AC or DC...but you need to change which pins get the power input

I will try and get a paint diagram of which pins are getting what
(after the kettle has boiled)

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[N cee thirty]

no earths on the starter solenoid as i can see of,think it only clips on to the battery strap anyway
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[robocog]

If you take the CDI out of circuit its OK and nothing blows?

Put a 12v bulb between the Green and black/red wires
It should light up with ignition turned on and go off with the ignition off
(no fuses gone..thats power feed and ground checked)

You could jury rig the CDI with a seperate battery feed (fused of course!) and see if its still blowing fuses off the bike

anyway brew made and the paint diagram cobbled together..
will carry on scratching my noggin

(mine being the AC feed type with kill switch has a missing red and black going to the 4 pin bottom right connection and uses the 2 pin connection for its power feed and the kill switch wire)

Regards
Rob
____________________
Needs a bigger garage...

[robocog]

so if you try and power the CDI directly from a suitably fused battery it will blow the fuse if the CDI is shorted
(worth the expense of a fuse checking off the bike?)

maybe worth checking theres not a wire or piece of swarf or whatever across the power and ground pins in the connector on the CDI? (or maybe bent pins touching?)

Put a meter across the CDI power and ground pins (multimeter set to ohms) and see if theres a dead short in there?
(obvoiusly with the CDI disconnected from the loom!)

I'm willing to meter across my pins for comparison if it would help

Regards
Rob
____________________
Needs a bigger garage...

[N cee thirty]

i put it against the black and red,green connectors,on ohms and it just stays on 1.

stays on 1. on all the connectors,hasn't changed
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[trisers]

[N cee thirty]

so it wouldn't have been anything in the loom,battery etc that would have knackered it ?

don't want to get it swapped and it do the same
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[trisers]

Might be worth checking the blue/yellow and black/yellow aren't shorting to earth (little or no resistance) as that could put a high current through the cdi...in theory the fuse should be small enough to protect it but fuses are really stoneage technology...they take a few thousandths of a second to heat up and melt before breaking the circuit which sometimes is long enough to fry electronics....

[robocog]

and make sure you've only ever put AC into the AC plug or DC into the DC plug

getting that wrong could make it go bad (esp if forcing AC into the DC socket)

Its worth pulling the CDI off and rigging just the power and earth (negative) to a battery with a small fuse inline

(would rule out the other pinouts being shorted whilst plugged into the loom making it look like the CDI is the culprit)

If it blows a small(ish) fuse (5A?) then its surely the CDI gone bad and worth opening up to have a look to see if its something obvious that could be fixed

(though it could well be potted in there so not much to see without the plastic cover)

Nothing to loose at that stage though
(and is what I would do out of sheer curiosity)

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[finpos]

Are you using a coil off of a points ignition bike? Does that coil have a bolt-on condenser? Do you really want a condenser there in the non-points ignition circuit?

f.

[N cee thirty]

new coil for 08 bike.
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[finpos]

Works simply by having a pulsed 12V supply (ie. the signal wire from the cdi) which collapses suddenly. It'll have it's own permanent earth through it's chassis.

(as opposed to wiring it with a permanent 12V on one side and then collapsing that by pulsing the earth via points on the other - I was wondering if there was a condenser on there somehow leaking the supply from the CDI to ground)

f.