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| Fran-tastic |
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Fran-tastic
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 14 Dec 2010
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 Posted: 20:43 - 14 Dec 2010  Post subject: 1990 Kawasaki er 250 restoration project (pic heavy) |
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I recently aquired a 1990 Kawasaki er 250 twin scorpian. The bike is in good condition apart from the electrics, there is barely any rust and only surface rust in small areas. It is missing a few bolts, was not running and has been stood for a number of years
partially stripped down to see whats needed
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/02052010145.jpg
The bike only has 15k miles on the clock and the engine is looking clean.
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/02052010147.jpg
there were major problems with the electrics, lots of botching had been done to the loom meaning there was no ignition, no sign of life at all which i have now fixed, just need to re wrap the wires to make them waterproof which I will do at a later date incase more work needs doing.
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/02052010139.jpg
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/Photo-0094.jpg
I am now at the stage that I want to get the bike running, the engine turns over, has compression and has spark ... so I am looking to clean out the fuel tank, drain the oil, change all the filters, change the spark plugs, clean the carbs etc
I am not extremly experienced when it comes to engines, I learn everything by reading and watching videos, I fix computers not motorbikes so any help and advice would be great.
Today I looked to clean out the petrol tank, When i shake it i can hear bits of rust and general crap im guessing rattling round in the tank but it is virtually impossible to get it to come out of the petrol cap ... I have read that putting nuts and bolts in the tank and shaking it is the best way to clean them up, but i dont think I will be able to get them back out again due to the fact that the tank gets really shallow by the petrol cap... any ideas?
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/Bike%20restoration/DSC06687.jpg
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/Bike%20restoration/DSC06686.jpg
Also i need to take the carbs off to give them a good clean, and to also attach the acceleration and deacceleration cables to the carb as these are disconnected ... I need to know , are the two cables are the same? just normal throttle cables? as I only have 1 at the moment.
I have removed the air box and breather tube, I now need to disconnect the carb from the block ... the manual shows it being connected via a jubalee type clamp
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/Bike%20restoration/DSC06695.jpg
when looking at the carbs however they seem to be connected via a screw either side
https://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t353/franscorsac/Bike%20restoration/DSC06673.jpg
these are in such an awkward place i cant get a screwdriver or bit in at the right angle to undo them ... any ideas?
will hopefully get the carbs off tomorrow and it should be running by the end of the week
Thanks
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| ZRX61 |
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew
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| Kickstart |
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Kickstart
The Oracle
Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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| Posted: 20:59 - 14 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Hi
Looks like the jubilee type clips are missing so nothing holding the carbs on at the moment. The screws I think you are referring to hold the carb rubbers to the engine and do not need to be removed to take the carbs off (and once the carbs are off they should be easy to undo if you need to).
As to dropping nuts into the tank, thread them loosely on some string before putting them in, and keep hold of the string.
All the best
Keith
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| c_dug |
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c_dug
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| Posted: 21:12 - 14 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Not sure nuts will actually remove the loose rust from inside the tank, it just gets the flakey bits off of the inside metal of the tank, not sure how to remove it from the tank completely!
Also as kickstart said, it looks like the jubilee clips are missing so the carbs should pop out of the rubbers with a little wobbling. Jubilee clips would be where the arrow is pointing.
https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/KawasakiCarbs.jpg
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| Fran-tastic |
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Fran-tastic
L Plate Warrior
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Fran-tastic
L Plate Warrior
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| Vincent |
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Vincent
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| Posted: 19:09 - 15 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Mole grips will remove the top screws but, when you get the covers off, be really careful with the diaphragms and EXTRA careful with the tips of the needles. And whatever you do, DON'T use a bit of wire to clean out the jets. 
This might prove useful for learning what's called what>-
https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1988-b3-er250_model12222/partslist/E1612.html |
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| ZRX61 |
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew
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| Posted: 19:36 - 15 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Fran-tastic
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| ms51ves3 |
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ms51ves3
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| Posted: 22:11 - 15 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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nsr_J22_FOXEYE
Scooby Slapper
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| Posted: 14:07 - 16 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Could you explain your process please? You have my interest
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ms51ves3
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Fran-tastic
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0ddball
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| Posted: 01:30 - 17 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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LongJohn22
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| Posted: 00:50 - 18 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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| ms51ves3 |
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ms51ves3
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| Posted: 14:17 - 18 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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Electrolysis is the bees knees. |
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Fran-tastic
L Plate Warrior
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| Posted: 15:47 - 18 Dec 2010 Post subject: |
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| ms51ves3 wrote: |
Electrolysis is the bees knees. |
I dont think id be that confident with a battery and jump leads near a fuel tank. I was thinking id put my telescopic magnet in the tank to try and pic up all the bits of rust will this work you recon? I havent updated the pics as am ill at the moment 
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 15 years, 155 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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