Extra Electrical experience...?

[Dazbo666]

I have a 12volt LED that I'd like to fit to the Bandit, but I want to fit it so that the LED comes on when I switch the ignition off... similar to an indicator that the alarm is active.

My limited knowledge of electicals is limited to what Mr Haynes has taught me over the years, but this LED is obviously not standard, so no help there.

I'm assuming that there's likely to be a relay involved, so I just need a laymans explanation of how I might go about wiring the extra circuit?!

available for constructive comments
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1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[hmmmnz]

relay and light wired to the normally closed contact,
fed from the battery and triggered by the ign wire

easy

do you want a paint diagram??
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the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Teflon-Mike]

Which side is the ignition switched?
If its switched on the earth side, ie, switching the ignition off, creates a circuit short circuiting the coils or CDi unit, then DEAD simple.
You wire between battery and the ignition earth wire.
A diode to prevent any current back flowing into the CDi may be useful.
But, when the ignition is 'on' the LED circuit is broken. When the ignition is off, LED circuit is 'made'
No relays, needed, just a 22p diode!
Another way to do it might be to use the Kill-Switch, if that works by shorting coils or CDi... same deal, you'd just have to flick the kill-switch to turn the LED on... but advantage would be that you'd be doubly imobilising the bike, so your LED wouldn't be an entirely 'fake' immobiliser...
OR, simply wire it on a switch, so when you stop, you turn LED on.
Better still, fit a hidden switch, to short curcuit the coild or CDi as an imobiliser, then wire LED to that, so it comes on when imobilised...
May as well get SOME actual security functionality from the excersize...
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[tahrey]

teflon's sounds good, but when things start getting into diodes with electrics i go cross-eyed without a diagram I can follow and mark nice big red arrows onto... plus if i'm reading the first bit right, you're just shorting the battery terminals?! that way burning hot death and explosions lie. At least if your LED doesn't blow first (though as it's a 12v it's maybe safe to assume it's got really very high internal resistance anyway?)

if your thing can't work that way, you can do it a touch more expensively (like, a fiver) as hmmmz sort of explained. Get one of the FIVE terminal relays and make sure you know which bit is which (there'll either be an included diagram, or you can easily find guides online - I did!). For normal "on with ignition" purposes you'd either use what a 4-pole relay had, or the equivalents on the 5 - that is the "normally open" (turned off) connections. For "off with the ignition" (IE on when ignition off) the 5-pole also has an alternative "normally closed" (turned on) output as well. Hook up to that, and when the key's on the relay will be energised, breaking the output. When the key's off, the relay is de-energised, and the output turns on.

[stinkwheel]

Why not just have it flashing all the time? I see no need for it to switch off when the ignition is on if it can't be seen from where you're sitting (on top of the tailpiece is a common place for alarm flashers).

If you buy a flashing LED (£1.99 for 5 in Maplins), you could just wire it straight to the battery with a bit of thin twincore cable. You don't even need a resistor for a flashing LED.

EDIT:
Circuit diagram attached

EDIT2: At 20mA draw. A fully charged 12Ah battery will run it for 25 days continuously.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Teflon-Mike]

Same circuit I suggested only I took the return side to the ignition switched earth for the CDi and added a protection Diode, which shouldn't be necessary, BUT, on the Super-Dream, when wired without diode, It didn't switch off when the ignition was turned on, breaking the circuit... it just went dim, suggesting that current was back-flowing through the CDi.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Bezzer]

The Bandit ignition has a P setting, the next position after the steering lock, that switches the parking and rear light on with everything else off.
You hardly ever/never use it and it would be easy to disconnect that feed to the parking lights and use it for the "alarm" feed without the need for relays etc. Parking/position lights would still be OK and operational when using the main switch as you still need it to work for MOT etc.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[Dazbo666]