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can it be fixed?

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salty21
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: can it be fixed? Reply with quote

A friend of mine recently bought a Logitech G27 racing wheel to replace his broken G25. He's had The G25 apart and says there's a burnt out chip, and with logitech not selling spares for these wheels he never bothered to attempt to fix it, but I was hoping to buy the G25 from him and take it to a local electronics shop i know to get it fixed, but im unsure if it's even possible to fix it as i know nothing of curcuit boards and wotnot.

In the top of this pic it's the top right large chip with an identical one next to it thats burnt out (the one that looks like a mechanical ant).

Can it be fixed?

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/g25_curcuit_board.jpg
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably,

Get me a higher quality, close up of the offending item dude.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

In theory you could replace it and it could start working again. It is possible the chip has just failed, but it is also possible that another component has failed, causing the initial damage.

Its worth a shot but it won't necessarily fix it.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post the details from the top of the chip>?
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

very hi res image https://www.flickr.com/photos/anachrocomputer/5120265086/sizes/o/in/photostream/

or a screen shot, it's the lower chip if it makes a difference

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/hi_res_g25.jpg
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

ncrn wrote:
In theory you could replace it and it could start working again. It is possible the chip has just failed, but it is also possible that another component has failed, causing the initial damage.

Its worth a shot but it won't necessarily fix it.


If it did blow again, would it be easy enough to locate the problem or is it a can of worms?
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeppers you can replace the item, how ever, it could end up being a
https://www.gomonews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/can-of-worms.jpg
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Frost
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A chip like that would cost about 40p to replace. You'd have to unsolder that one and solder the new one in obviously, and there is no way of knowing for certain it won't blow again, but i'd give it a shot.

Out of interest how do you or your mate know it's that chip?
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's note by a person with the exact same problem that you've got and it even mentions exactly the name of the chip(s) that had to be replaced

https://macnetwork.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/p1050979.jpg

https://macnetwork.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/129/
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaFrostyOne wrote:
A chip like that would cost about 40p to replace. You'd have to unsolder that one and solder the new one in obviously, and there is no way of knowing for certain it won't blow again, but i'd give it a shot.

Out of interest how do you or your mate know it's that chip?


because it's gone brown and singed round the edges Laughing

I wouldnt be able to replace it myself as i've never soldered anything in my life, but it's nice to know it wont cost much. The Guy i know with the electronics shop is really good on prices so wont cost me much to get it done.
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ncrn
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
ncrn wrote:
In theory you could replace it and it could start working again. It is possible the chip has just failed, but it is also possible that another component has failed, causing the initial damage.

Its worth a shot but it won't necessarily fix it.


If it did blow again, would it be easy enough to locate the problem or is it a can of worms?


If you knew what voltage levels should get be getting to the chip, and where they are sourced from, it wouldn't be too horrendous. But without information from whoever designed it, it could be difficult.

The link posted above seems to indicate that the chip is the last part of the chain before the motors, so in theory its possible that the motor load is what causes the chip to die after time. Or it could be a motor problem perhaps. Hard to say without playing with it really.
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's not as melted as the pic above, it's just a bit brown
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salty21
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

think i will just do as the guy did in that link (cheers scotsman!)

Any recommendations on what solvent cleaner to use, is brake cleaner ok?
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94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take a trip to your nearby Maplins electronics store, if you have one and they will set you up or if someone on here is electronic Tech or greater maybe they will know? Pity my brother fixes the electronics on fighter jets, etc, except he is not in the country at the moment to ask, sorry!
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Frost
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get all my bits and bob's from here:
https://uk.farnell.com/
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ThoughtContro...
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PostPosted: 01:49 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scotsman37 wrote:
Here's note by a person with the exact same problem that you've got and it even mentions exactly the name of the chip(s) that had to be replaced

https://macnetwork.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/129/


That's as near to a repair guide that you've got. Extremely useful if you're handy with a multimeter and a soldering iron.

Check out the motors first otherwise like he says, if you replace the chips and they're clogged with carbon you'll end up blowing them again.
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scotsman37 wrote:
Take a trip to your nearby Maplins electronics store, if you have one and they will set you up or if someone on here is electronic Tech or greater maybe they will know? Pity my brother fixes the electronics on fighter jets, etc, except he is not in the country at the moment to ask, sorry!


lol! The people in maplins know as much about electronics as the staff in currys do about particle physics!
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mistergixer
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Codemonkey wrote:

lol! The people in maplins know as much about electronics as the staff in currys do about particle physics!


Apropos achieving surround sound:

Alan Partridge wrote:


Apropos...it's Latin. You ought to have a basic grasp of Latin if you're working in...Curry's.


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salty21
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 22 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

picked up the wheel today and took it apart to have a look and do some testing as per the guide which scotsman kindly found.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/dsc00209.jpg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/dsc00213_561.jpg

In the guide it says he tested the resistance between the coil's in the motor, this is where im stuck, i measured the resistance between the red and black wires leading to the motor, is this the same thing? all i am getting is 001 ohms with the multimeter set to 20k ohms so virtually nop resistance. This is the same for both motors.

I measured the voltage coming in with the power supply connected and this is 23.8v so thats ok and the wires leading from the input to the circuit board show the same 23.8v.

So im kind of stuck at the moment on what i should be testing. I'm going to get some wire tomorrow and feed the 23.8v from the input directly to the motors to see if they spin up but apart from that i could do with pointing in the right direction.

The replacement chip is on order and should be here thursday so i just want to check what i can before i take it down to be replaced.

He mentions something called an encoder in the guide, is this the black plastic thing on the back of the right side motor?
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ThoughtContro...
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
In the guide it says he tested the resistance between the coil's in the motor, this is where im stuck, i measured the resistance between the red and black wires leading to the motor, is this the same thing? all i am getting is 001 ohms with the multimeter set to 20k ohms so virtually nop resistance. This is the same for both motors.


Change the range of your meter down to a lower setting. Motor windings are very low resistance, so a high range is not what you want. 200 Ohms would be better since you're testing for 28-33 Ohms, although it looks like your motors are dirty and need the carbon dust from the brushes cleaning out. The short circuit is probably what blew the chip.


(awaits "the thing that" pedants. You're not me mam, get over it Razz)
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salty21
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

right i have tested again on 200 ohms and the motor with the blown chip is 14 ohms and the other is 28.3 ohms so this would suggest a dirty motor that need a clean, so i went ahead and ordered 2 replacement chips as they were only 80p each andd i have a spare incase it goes again later on.

So next question is, how do i clean the motor?. As far as i can see you cant remove the outer casing without butchering it and risking it spinning inside itself when it's put back together. Can i just spray inside the holes at all angles with brake cleaner? is brake cleaner ok lol?

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/side_201.jpg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/top.jpg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/bottom_174.jpg
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04 NSR 125(sold) Sad ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold)Sad Smile ----90 pan euro ST1100 'Shocked' ----02 CG 125 Smile
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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finpos
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 23 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the first instance, try blasting it out with something (electrical contact cleaner would be ideal...). The commutator is the brassy bit you can see through the hole in the side. My guess would be that brake cleaner will be fine.

If that fails, you'll have to unbend the little crimps at the back of the metal shell, where the wires go in - the whole back end should then fall off. Avoid if possible due to fiddly re-assembly.

f.
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