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Faster after top end rebuild, or after run-in

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Snorty
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Faster after top end rebuild, or after run-in Reply with quote

I've just rebuilt the top end of my engine, 1.5 O/S piston, rebore etc.

Is it now at the fastest it will be, or will it be faster after being run-in properly?

I seem to remember reading something about compression being higher after being run-in?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Re: Faster after top end rebuild, or after run-in Reply with quote

snorty wrote:
I've just rebuilt the top end of my engine, 1.5 O/S piston, rebore etc.

Is it now at the fastest it will be, or will it be faster after being run-in properly?

I seem to remember reading something about compression being higher after being run-in?


It'll be faster after being run in, but you shouldn't be able to tell as you're supposed to be treating it gently during the run in phase!!! Doh!
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha. I've only had a quick blast on it, by that I mean I haven't been over 30mph, just making sure it runs after the rebuild in the car park.

I just mean it feels really responsive on the throttle when I pull it, the pressure comes off the front forks when I do.

It's only a TZR 125 (closed powervalve so doesn't rev past 8k, never has since I bought it). I imagine I shouldn't go above about 6k rpms?
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm confused.
First why were you doing a rebuild in a car park?
Wouldn't it have been warmer in a shed?
Second, if he ran it in, keeping to the book, like 1/3 throttle & 40mph for first fifty miles upping five mph and a nadgers more max throttle every fifty after, until full throttle & full speed reached after 250 miles or so..... it would quite obviousely be faster after run in?
Or is that what you mean marjay?
If he DOESNT run it in, he'll know how fast it is now, but not after running in, becouse it wont have been......
Err..... I give up.... my logic is too cunning even for me now!?!
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOOK OUT! The following advice applies to 4 stroke, not the 2 stroke that was belatedly revealed as the subject of the inquiry.
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

If you're interested in performance ON A 4 STROKE, and thinking of doing a gentle run-in then I suggest that you read this.

Then ask yourself who told you to run a new or rebuilt engine in gently, and why, and what evidence they provided. Note carefully that "everybody says" isn't evidence, it's blind faith.
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 19:41 - 03 Mar 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah no I've been rebuilding it at my work (factory unit) then took it outside once it had been rebuilt.

Putting the new float valve needle in the carb today and I should be good to go.

Last time I had a rebuild I gave it a good thrashing, it survived a fair amount of trips over to the east coast but heat seized on me...

I suspect it was due to me being a doylem and filling up the coolant expansion chamber instead of the radiator when topping up...

Going to treat it a bit gentler this time round as I've had enough bus trips to work to last me a lifetime, with the spluttering diseased scummy public.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Note carefully that "everybody says" isn't evidence, it's blind faith.


To a large extent I would say the same applies to the mototune method (which is "proven" when done on a dyno so very little load on the engine compared to running in on the road).

All the best

Keith
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
If you're interested in performance, and thinking of doing a gentle run-in then I suggest that you read this.

Then ask yourself who told you to run a new or rebuilt engine in gently, and why, and what evidence they provided. Note carefully that "everybody says" isn't evidence, it's blind faith.


Have heard of this methods before and I know opinion is divided on the subject. I kept expecting the site to try and sell me Viagra and body building supplements, they also claim to have got 172mph out of a fat guy on a 101bhp R6...

https://www.mototuneusa.com/yamaha_r6.htm


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 16:01 - 03 Mar 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Frost
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always think about people who race 2 strokes, like at the TT and stuff. You don't see then covering hundreds of miles at low revs to run the engine in. They just stick it together and rag it to the limit.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

True, but they are probably running single ring pistons (not much to run in) which they replace every race.

All the best

Keith
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
If you're interested in performance, and thinking of doing a gentle run-in then I suggest that you read this.

Then ask yourself who told you to run a new or rebuilt engine in gently, and why, and what evidence they provided. Note carefully that "everybody says" isn't evidence, it's blind faith.


Roger, I know you are a confirmed conspiracy theorist, convinced the moon landings actually took place in an aircraft hanger in San Diago, using Holywood special effects and moovie technitians, now buried in the Nevada desert by frelance Mafioso paid by the CIA..... BUT:-

Given the run in procvedures of so many manufacturers are so similar, and THEY all spend gazillions on R&D, to get to the dsame conclusion, and have to pick up the bill for warranty claims so its all in their best interest.... WHO would you actually trust? Some boffin from Homatsu with a super computer, or a loud mouth yank that has managed to not blow up his lawn mower, and is shouting about it all over the web?

This debate has been raging years. About twenty years ago, it was shown that oil boiler gixers actually worked better thrashed from the crate, a curiocity of the oil cooled enmgine in such a high state of tune chilaquing up, if not worked hard.

Its been shown to be more or less significant on other engines, of different vintages.

However, that blokes load of techno babble and pseudo science, only applies to modern, four stroke, high precission, and factory fresh engines..... this lads TZR I dont think really falls into any of those catagories!

Its generouse to say that the TZR motor is a 30m year old design/... that was merely whenm it got water cooling, it can trace a lot of its heritage back to the original YB1 of 1951 or whatever it was, the licence built DKW RT125, of pre WWII conception!

Rebored by a local machine shop.... probably on a fifty year old machine tool!

There is some merit in not being to soft on the motor when running in to avoid bore glazing, but the process is there to let parts 'bed in' and the high spots and snaggy bits of the surface finish on moving parts to wear off, reduciung friction and heat.

Persponal & secondary experience, the engineering science, and the opinion of respected and successful two stroke engine bniuilders and racers tells ME.... you run em in, if you want them to make power and be reliable!

May not be so soft on them, but you give them a chance to loose their rough edges, befdore you give them the berries!
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
If you're interested in performance, and thinking of doing a gentle run-in then I suggest that you read this.

Then ask yourself who told you to run a new or rebuilt engine in gently, and why, and what evidence they provided. Note carefully that "everybody says" isn't evidence, it's blind faith.


Rogerborg, your so called evidence is based on FOUR STROKE engines you fucking idiot!

Please please don't advise any more two stroke owners to not run in their engines. Thrashing a two stroke from a fresh rebuild is likely to cause a seizure and potentially a crash. It isn't a good thing to do. The worst that'll happen on a four stroke is that you end up slightly down on power. On a two stroke, the worst that can happen is that the engine seizes, you crash and you die.

Its a pretty important issue and as such you need to make sure you give the correct advice, and not just fire off a load of rhetoric which you read somewhere else on the internet. This is exactly why the advice you used to get from a 'bloke down the pub' has now been replaced by 'bloke on the internet'.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a fair few different opinions.

I think the picture did it for me:

https://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg

The piston on the right was broken in via the 'running it hard' method. The one of the left, the 'normal' method!
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Bit that would stop me taking that at face value is the total lack of any carbon build up ABOVE the rings.

All the best

Keith
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Frost
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

0l0dom0l0 wrote:
There is a fair few different opinions.

I think the picture did it for me:

https://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg

The piston on the right was broken in via the 'running it hard' method. The one of the left, the 'normal' method!


Yup both have been run in, the one on the left has done 500 miles, one on the right about 50, so there will be a big difference in carbon build up as their not both the same mileage.
Personally a top end rebuild takes so little time and doesn't cost much, so i'd rather run in hard and do a rebuild every 8k than spend age running in and re a rebuild every 12k.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Calm down, dears. The type of engine was disclosed while I was off searching for that link. Yes, yes, always read the intervening posts, measure twice, look before you leap, i before e except when the sun's over the yard-arm.

INSUFFICIENT DATA FOR MEANINGFUL ANSWER.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Bit that would stop me taking that at face value is the total lack of any carbon build up ABOVE the rings.

All the best

Keith


I had never noticed that before actually.

Does seem a bit weird. There should defo be a build up above the rings!
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I finally got the bastard carburettor to stop leaking... fitted the rebuild kit all the parts, jets throttle pin, needle seat etc.

Still leaked, took 3 attempts but third time lucky after bending the float "frame" part that sits on the needle valve.

Took it out for a test run, plenty of power behind the throttle (for a 125!)

Nearly binned it when I braked on some slate some c**t had left in the road.

Still... all is well now, got it home, tucked it in, ready for work tomorrow, I am no longer a bus wanker!

How *should* a 2T be run in? What's the general consensus? I'm sticking below 5000 revs, once I get to that, I shift up, until I am in final gear.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger, this wouldn't be sort of pent up angst at having faithfully run the 125 in to an archaic run in procedure, keeping speeds to 25mph or so for a few hundred miles, incrementing it by 5mph every decade, whilst doing oil changes with every fuel fillup, and then feeling a bit conned by it all, would it?

If it makes you feel better, your running in regime wass actually pretty close to ideal for that motorcycle...... must confess it has bog all to do with reliability or power or limiting warranty claims, though.....

Its more to do with making you REALLY appreciate life in the slow lane, so that when you HAVE got it fully run in, your so bludy relieved that you can actually keep up with some traffic, you don't grumble about how slow it is!

While also giving you some hope that it might actually prove reliable, paddling about for a thousand miles, without it making enough power to actually shake anything loose!
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Frost
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 03 Mar 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think run in procedures are secretly there to stop people getting a new car or bike then ragging it to the limit first chance they get and ruining the cars reputation, or more likely making use of the warrenty Wink

Personally i think there is no finer feeling in life than picking up a hire car to find it's got 20 miles on the clock. You know you can treat the tires and clutch how you like and they'll still be working fine when you give the car back Laughing
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