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My first big bike

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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 10 Apr 2011    Post subject: My first big bike Reply with quote

Hi all!

So after being on the CG since last June and passing in January.

I bought a '96 GPZ500S. Tax has run out last month and MOT expires later this month. It's not going to be on the road until July as I cannot afford the insurance until I get my 1 year NCD from the CG.

I bought it for a tad over 500 quid. It needs some things doing like the oblicatory service and replacing things which wear (probably front disc). I need to make some restrictors. I does need carbs ballancing too. Though I can only do that when it's had a service.

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/Blurredman/Cars%20and%20Mine/217298_178919158822918_100001145042660_385112_3108123_n.jpg?t=1302472666

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/Blurredman/Cars%20and%20Mine/216132_178919122156255_100001145042660_385111_2017950_n.jpg?t=1302472703

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/Blurredman/Cars%20and%20Mine/garage.jpg?t=1302472708

https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/Blurredman/Cars%20and%20Mine/back.jpg?t=1302472706

As you may see there is surface rust as per usual to the rear of the motorcycle, and it's going to have the same treatment as my CG. Two bolts did sheer and I'll have to drill them and either the bolts will cave or i'll have to make a new thread.

It's gonna get a few coats of hammerite smooth and it'll be good for another 15 years.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 10 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, i miss my GPZ now Sad

Might buy another one.

Nice bike dude Thumbs Up

dunc
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james1988
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 10 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! When you get it on the road fancy going for a ride through Brecon?

James
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Glenben92
Nearly there...



Joined: 01 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 10 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, You've bought a burgundy GPZ500S, like me. (mine was 97 and in better condition by the looks of it though, aside from the paintwork. But at least all of my panels were there Razz)

You've paid about £500 for it, like me.

You're having to wait to ride it due to insurance NCB, like me.

You've stripped it down to the frame, like me.

You've taken the rear wheel off and discovered a rusted swingarm, like me.

You're hammeriting said rust over, like me.

_______________________________________________

I suggest you use some rust converter inbetween rubbing it down and hammeriting it over. It'll only help! you can get a little pot on ebay for about a fiver (roughly).

Also suggest you remove the front mudguard and pop the bracket out. It'll be in a bad state. Rub, treat and repaint. Do the same with the rad grille.

Wish I'd kept a list of where I got everything for mine coz I got everything rather cheap (I'm a shopper arounderer).
All I can remember at the minute is as follows:

SJ Motorcycles on ebay for both sprockets (Both JT) cost about £20 delivered.

My chain was a "racelink" 114 link gold o-ring for £26 delivered that we cut down, also from ebay. (bare in mind that if you buy this, the "split link" supplied is a fucking spare link, not a split. It'd need to be rivited. And since fitting a closed chain to the GPZ means removing the swing arm... we just bought a separate splitty Razz All in all completely worth the save in money though.

Oil filter from ebay as well IIRC, about a fiver.

Front sprocket plate from wemoto. Delivery is more than the fucking plate. (not my best purchase, cost wise, but the best i found at a glance)

Didn't need plugs but they're available on fleabay for somewhere between 1 and 2 quid each (NGK DR9EA)

Good luck, it'll keep you busy till insurance is ready. Try not to make my mistake... don't finish it before you can ride it Crying or Very sad

Any Q's and i'm happy to try and help. Mine was a D7 model, what's yours out of interest?
____________________
57 Huoniao HN125-8 - Smile, 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S - Very Happy
99 Yamaha FZS 600 - Wink
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be a D2/D3.

I also can help with issues Laughing

Dunc
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenben92 wrote:
helpful stuff


Yeah- it was an auction Glen. 600 would have been my max.
The rust is not a problem, only a hassle. The swingarm is in very good condition. The area around the suspension is the biggest issue.
I'll be needing to take the swingarm off to get the new chain on- and I need to clean up the spring.

What rust removal tool did you use? When I did the exact same thing on my CG, I just prep'ed and brushed the hammerite on.

Regarding the bellypan, i'm not even sure if I would like one

I believe the engine is a D3.


Cool Dunk!
And James, sure!
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Glenben92
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 00:46 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:

Yeah- it was an auction Glen. 600 would have been my max.
The rust is not a problem, only a hassle. The swingarm is in very good condition. The area around the suspension is the biggest issue.
I'll be needing to take the swingarm off to get the new chain on- and I need to clean up the spring.

What rust removal tool did you use? When I did the exact same thing on my CG, I just prep'ed and brushed the hammerite on.

Regarding the bellypan, i'm not even sure if I would like one

I believe the engine is a D3.


I used ANCIENT Jenolite we had lieing around and then when that ran out I used the stuff I got from Ebay. As long as you use rust converter rather than rust eater, you're alright. Rather than eating through the rust that's there, it just turns it into carbon. Which kills it and causes zero threat to the metal.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/rust-converter-/300546058358?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item45f9f0e876

That's the one we bought, seems alright although didn't use much of it, the old Jenolite polished off the majority of the rust.

And obviously try and take as much as you can off with emery cloth and wire brushes. (i found the wire brush heads for the drill were absolutely excellent for the job)

If you're taking the swing arm off for the spring anyway then yeah you don't have to worry about open/closed chains. I'm starting to seriously doubt whether an O-Ring chain is worth it though.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260719309920

(Don't forget the retaining plate from wemoto. It'll probably need replacing. Mine was in terrible nick.) You're supposed to swap em whenever you do the sprockets anyway so...

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250753617940

The chain is no longer for sale, just checked.

The brake pads I bought have now went up in price (I got my kyoto's for £15 delivered for a full set, they're now like £17 or something)

Hope this helps Smile

EDIT: Stats say it's a 104 link 520# chain by the way.. Just to save you researching it yourself Smile

(I say this because I didn't buy a standard, I bought bigger and cut it down to what fit.) I should really count how many links we removed and see if it adds up correctly... it should do. Bike works fine so i'm not bothered either way Razz
____________________
57 Huoniao HN125-8 - Smile, 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S - Very Happy
99 Yamaha FZS 600 - Wink
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be buying standard from a shop i regularly buy motorcycle parts off.

I am under the impression however that you do not need the metal to be bare. But, when painting with hammerite, you merely need to make sure that the rust is solid and that it is not flaking and does not have flaking paint on it.

Rust converter to carbon?- how strong is the converted carbon?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Dazbo666
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Joined: 06 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a GPZ as my first big bike too. Great memories of my first couple of years on two wheels, and I learned a fair bit about maintenance and working on it etc.
If there's any issues I might be able to help with, I'd be more than happy to help out ... and as already mentioned, when you're back on the road, I'd be glad to go on a rideout Thumbs Up
____________________
1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

...or as another alternative, maybe Hammerite Direct To Rust Primer etc??

[edit : just a word of advice, avoid the rust treatment gel. I tried this stuff a few weeks ago (before eventually repainting with Hammerite), and it's not made the slightest bit of difference. The gel was a complete waste of prep time and money.]
____________________
1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 02:32 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dazbo666 wrote:
...or as another alternative, maybe Hammerite Direct To Rust Primer etc??


That's what I did to the CG. Although rust converter might be a good idea for external bodywork. It is somewhat easier to just brush some good old hammerite on it, as it needs to be on anyway. Besides, aswel as being a thick type of spread, as long as the rust gets no oxygene (by way of chips and scrapes) then the rust cannot do any worse. That's what i've been lead to believe anyway...
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.


Last edited by blurredman on 11:02 - 11 Apr 2011; edited 1 time in total
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DrDonnyBrago
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Joined: 03 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
I'll be buying standard from a shop i regularly buy motorcycle parts off.

I am under the impression however that you do not need the metal to be bare. But, when painting with hammerite, you merely need to make sure that the rust is solid and that it is not flaking and does not have flaking paint on it.

Rust converter to carbon?- how strong is the converted carbon?


It's not carbon.


Rust converters don't actually convert the rust into metal or carbon, they use phosphoric acid to dissolve the iron oxide (rust) but leave the iron (in the steel) alone. The iron oxide is then 'converted' to ferric phosphate which is black and looks a little like soot (carbon) but is very easy to remove giving you bare metal to paint onto. If you are using hammerite, I'd be tempted to bypass much of the derusting (just give it a good going over with a stiff wire brush) because hammerite is normally quite good when painted straight onto the rusty metal.

The only way to properly convert rust into metal is by using electrolysis (PITA to set up and use) and the only way to convert elemental iron into elemental carbon is by Nuclear fission and fusion (i.e. the somewhat warm processes that occur in the core of the sun) . Cool

HTH
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear (that includes swingarm, rear half of frame and spring) have now had their first coat of hammerite, I will put a final one on tomorrow for spots I have missed or areas which are thin.

Then when I got the chain I can put them together, and the service can be carried out and get that engine running less rough by balancing the carbs etc. Then i'll need to find some sheet metal to make my restrictors.

Also, the front disc brake is decidedly thinner than it was and I can tell this by the ridge around the outside. Is there a minimum thickness needed for the MOT or does it merely have to be 'effective'?
I heard they had to be at least 4mm thick is this true?


In any case, I cannot figure out how to remove the axle bolt since it isn't one. How do I remove this particular rod?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 11 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt, i've still got those restrictors for the GPZ if you want them.

The guy that said he'd take them hasn't got in touch so i'm taking it he doesn't want them.

Gimme a shout Thumbs Up

Dunc
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 12 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Declan, letter is on the way!

The spring, swingarm and basically the whole of the rear have been hammerited and are back together. I may work on the front some time in the future. I'd have to buy a belly pan also- Both for looks and the limited protection they give.

Well i've decided to keep the front sroket and chain (they wern't bad at all really) and reconditioned them. Rear sprocket needs a change and so do the rear brake pads. I've yet to remove the front.
I've decided to just pack the cush drive with good solid, thick non-deradable cloth.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 14 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duncan, that was bloody fast! Cheers mate! I'll install them some time tomorrow Smile

Are there any slots that these things get held into in the rubber?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 14 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No bother, man.

Should just sit in it, you'll understand when you've got the rubbers off, it's pretty simple Thumbs Up

I hope you liked the Duct tape security Wink

Dunc
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 14 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Dunkable wrote:
No bother, man.

Should just sit in it, you'll understand when you've got the rubbers off, it's pretty simple Thumbs Up

I hope you liked the Duct tape security Wink

Dunc


I hope you liked the letter lol
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 14 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, yes. i must thank you for your generosity Wink

Post up when you've got the restrictors in! let me know how much the effect the power on it.

Dunc
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 15 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I will Declan when I get around to it Smile


Anyway, I forgot to mention this motorcycle came with two service reciepts from 11/12/2008 and 19/02/2009.

A fair bit on money went into this motorcycle- admittably half of that is hourly labour rate Laughing

11/12/2008:

Labour (£210)
Seal Fork Outer (£12.90)
Seal Oil & Fork Outer (£11.80)
Chain and Sproket kit (£78.25)
Bush (£13.74)
Axle (£28.67)
Nut (£3.90)
Bush (£14.28)

Total = £429.58


10/02/2009:

Labour (£420)
BT45 (£73.91)
C3-6202-DDU Bearing (£15.30)
Disc Pads (£15.64)
Spark Plugs (£12.12)
Filter Oil (£5.20)
Tyre valve (£2.60)
Damber Rubb-main stand (£2.43)
O- Rings (£0.62)
Cylinder head gasket (£22.49)
Sump plug washer (£0.29)
Helicoil (£2.95)- for above
Piston Packing x2 (£7.90)
Silk Dot4 500ML (£6.08)
Belray EXS (Ultra) Bulk (£28.28)
Belray 15W fork oil (£7.38)

Total = £722.41

Details:

"Gave full service including valvse. Removed sump pan and helicoiled sump bung threads. Fitted front tyre and front brake pads. Rebuilt front caliper changed front and rear brake fluids. Stiffened rear suspension. Had to reposition exhaust to allow access to sump bung."

Another reciept for a £27.22 battery.

So all and all, total of £1151.99 of servicing (half being labour+tax) on this motorcycle in the space of just 3 years.

Pitty they didn't replace the front disc too, I need one as it is under the specified minimum. I know the chinese are not not a viable option most of the time- but I found one on ebay- would this be any good?


https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130507835970&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 15 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember, that disk has to bring 200+kg from 60+ to 0 in a fraction of the time it takes to get there.... i wouldn't be risking something like that on chinese branded disks.

It's up to you in the long run, but on things like that i'd spend a bit of cash.

Dunc
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 15 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Dunkable wrote:
Remember, that disk has to bring 200+kg from 60+ to 0 in a fraction of the time it takes to get there.... i wouldn't be risking something like that on chinese branded disks.

It's up to you in the long run, but on things like that i'd spend a bit of cash.

Dunc


I'd rather get a 2nd hand one for £50
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 16 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to a breakers/scrappy, i could bet that you'll find at least one GPZ there.

if you're lucky, you'll find one with a decent disk on it.

Dunc
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 16 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the last thing which needs doing that is not on order due to finding one. Also got a new battery as the old one is damaged due to some fool who has had it running with 2 or 3 cells wayyy below minimum. I've not yet taken the front wheel off either so may need pads for that but time will tell.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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dextersaurus
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 16 Apr 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might as well take the calipers apart while you're at it and give them a grease Thumbs Up

Sticking pins are a bloody nightmare.

Dunc
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