And another one... R/H switchgear/Throttle.

[m0l0t0v]

Another episode on my Hornet drama.

First, the fucked up C&S, then then fucked up Brakes.

C&S are done and dusted.

Brakes are now awesome, with braided brake lines, new calipers and pads.

Wiring was dodgy as hell, with the dash turning off when put into gear and turning back on when knocked into neutral, headlight turning off and on randomly and other weird things... So took the whole wiring loom off and replaced it with my old Hornet one, which is working absolutely perfectly now.

But while sorting out all the wiring, I find I only had one throttle cable attached to the bike

And a shit load of blu tack on my R/H switchgear

No idea why the blu tack is/was in there for...

So... I get my old throttle cable and use that, which is worn but it's better than no cable! Bit of a hassle but get it sorted in the end. change the switchgear from my old Hornet one again. It's all good. Apart from there's this little metal "dowel" which is in the way off the throttle tube which "twists" the handlebars to the point that the throttle doesn't spring back shut. when off the bar, it springs back perfectly so I know it's not cables getting stuck or anything. And I have greased the bars to no avail. It gets fully stuck and it's this little metal "dowel" which isn't on the blu tacked switchgear BUT I can tel there used to be one there (pretty sure) as I can see a small little crack where it's supposed to be.


So can anyone tell me what this dowel thing does? Is it some sort of weird earth? I looked at the workshop manual but it doesn't mention anything about it... I can't find anything/anywhere to unscrew it/remove it so my only choice is to get the fucker out OR bay smaller diameter bars, which I'll probably end up doing...

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https://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/229015_10150164535346615_509016614_7208140_941333_n.jpg




Old blu tacked swtichgear

https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228105_10150164535451615_509016614_7208142_6470050_n.jpg
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'99 Hornet 600 , VFR 400 NC30 '92 , Kasawamasaki GT 550 , '98 Hornet 600
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed

[Robby]

I assume you mean the little metal stud next to the throttle twist tube. That's to locate the switchgear on the standard bars, there's a tiny little hole that the stud locates into. I assume that someone fitted non-standard bars, so the blu-tak is to stop the switchgear slipping round.

Throttle sticking is usually because the throttle tube is sticking on the bar, it doesn't take much resistance. Possible causes are:

1. Dirt between the tube and bar. Clean both really well (WD40 then lots of tissue. Remove any rust or corrosion from the bar. Use white spray grease on reassembly. It sprays in as a liquid and penetrates well, then sets to a light grease. The same stuff to use on car door hinges and locks.

2. Bar end weight fouling on throttle tube. Slide the throttle tube up the bar away from the bar end weight so you can see at least 1mm clearance between them.

3. Switchgear stud not located in the handlebar hole. Switchgear will be sitting at the wrong angle, meaning the throttle tube is being pushed onto the bar at some point along its length.

4. Throttle cable(s) dried out/sticking or missing. The return spring on the carb end is light, to give you a light throttle. This is why you have two cables - one is push and one is pull. If one of them is missing, the spring will have a job pulling the throttle closed. Also, a dried out cables produces a surprising amount of drag. This is difficult to diagnose because the cable can feel fine when removed and operated by hand. Same goes for car clutch cables. Best remody is to renew the cables.

5. Very dirty/sticky/gummed up throttle return spring on the carbs. A good spray with brake/carb cleaner to remove the dirt, followed by a spray of white grease to keep it moving smoothly.

By the sound of it you have a fair few bodges to sort out. Non-standard bars can cause a lot of problems, from things like this to cables being the wrong length or switchgear fouling on the tank at full lock. They also rarely improve the handling. Try putting it back to standard bars.

The wiring is likely down to a poor earth, if its still misbehaving. Go over the bike to find the earth points, clean them up with some emery paper until you get back to clean bright metal, then use a smear of copper grease to prevent further corrosion.


In addition, I would give the bike a good going over to check for loose bolts, and to grease assorted bearings. Pull the monoshock linkage apart and grease the bearings, it sounds like the previous owner was a bit of a muppet so things like will have been neglected, and may have had a jetwasher spray directly at them to blast off the road crud. You'd be surprised how often a suspect knackered shock is in fact just down to a monoshock linkage with dry bearings.

[m0l0t0v]

I realised what it was 10 minutes after I posted and went to bed

Ah well, will get the drill out tonight.

The sticking is definately caused by that, the throttle cables are a little worn so will be getting replacements asap but will do for now. They do spring back as they should when not on the bar.

Nah wasn't the earth. It was just really really dodgy. Wires being stretched to buggery and other things. "old" Hornet wiring loom is working perfectly all around.

I'll check the shock linkage. Ta
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'99 Hornet 600 , VFR 400 NC30 '92 , Kasawamasaki GT 550 , '98 Hornet 600
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed

[Ditto]

Those dowels can also be plastic and are normally ground off when Renthals are fitted instead of drilling a new hole. That blu tack is a shoddy job though!

Get one of these to oil the cable:

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-CABLE-OILER-MOTORCYCLE-CAR-BOAT-MOTO-X-/260779259926?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cb7a7b816#ht_500wt_922

Not if its nylon coated though. And do the clutch one while you're at it.

And also make sure the cable adjustment is set correctly. My throttle was sticking on full lock because the adjustment was wrong.

You need to slacken off the pushing cable (Turn the adjuster all the way in) then set the slack to about 2-4mm on the pulling cable.
Then you just tighten the pushing cable till you feel resistance.

Thats for my bike anyway, should be the same for a Hornet.
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CG 125 > Bandit 600 > CBR 600 FY > Street Triple R

[Vincent]

Them pegs are also used to stop the throttle being fitted too far on the bars thus causing the end of the bar to foul on the inside end of the throttle and make it stick.

[m0l0t0v]

I oiled them as much as I could. I'm sure they'll be alright. Will be drilling the bar tomorrow. It's metal so would have to brake it off. I remember the renthals on my old Hornet had a hole.

Now just to fit my Corsa III's and get it MOT'd...
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'99 Hornet 600 , VFR 400 NC30 '92 , Kasawamasaki GT 550 , '98 Hornet 600
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed