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heehaw
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Joined: 09 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Indicators Reply with quote

My indicators go mental.

On idle they flash at a reasonable rate, if I'm changing down at junctions (higher revs) they flash really fast.

Although this doesn't bother me I have my test coming up and they might say my bike is not fit for purpose.

I'm guessing the increased current from the generator going faster has something to do with it and a duff rectifier maybe???

Ideas?
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Casper
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats the chance they will rev the bike with the indicators on? my money is on they will test it with the ignition on or bike running at tickover. If worried take them off. FWIW my old Katana was like that. Get a new flasher relay.
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Kwaks
I'm not a fast rider



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PostPosted: 18:05 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume the test he is referring to is not the MOT.

Easy fix, sounds like the relay may be goosed, but check the connections before replacing it.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have LED indys on? I have the same prob...

The flasher relay gets increased current when you rev and switches faster ... what you need is to connect a voltage stabilizer transistor on the +ve of the flasher relay, that will be giving constant 12V to the flasher.

Otherwise you can switch back to mechanical relay and get in-line resistors for your indys.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this the Super Dream?
If so your battery is probably Donald Ducked...
Indies & lights are on the main battery charge circuit, if batter was taking charge it would damp any surges from the alternator.
If reg/rect was duff it wouldn't charge and you would probably not get enough juice into the CDi's for the bike to run.
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 19 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a new battery mike, starts and charges fine, unless it's goosed it's self rapidly.

I'll have a footer about.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 20 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

heehaw wrote:
It's a new battery mike, starts and charges fine, unless it's goosed it's self rapidly.
I'll have a footer about.

Oh.. you bought the Mull-Berry!
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/E%20Bay%20Adds/KGrHqNiME1NuhHYSbBNhgu-cmQQ_3.jpg
The VERY red 82 model with over done cosmetics and under done mechanics!
Query: Why are you worrying about indicators, when I thought you had a swiss cheese Swing-Arm?
From my reccolection that bike had been sat in a barn for half a decade in salt air on a small North Sea Islans, where it will have roitted like an abandoned oil rig........hence a lot of paint chucked at it to cover it up!

OK. Indicators. Flasher units on these things are pretty Chronic. Out of six bikes I had ONE that the flasher unit was 'good' on.

Electro-Mech device, they aren't that water tight, and the one on one of my bikes that lives about as far from the sea as its physically possible to get in the UK....
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/imag1773.jpg
........was still full of rusty water.

You say its flashing fast when reved. Reletively, could be flashing SLOW when not reved....... so thinking through the logic.

Power comes from alternator, through Reg/Rect, to battery, stabilised by battery, comes out to flasher, thence to indicator switch, directed to left or right bulbs, and down to earth.

EARTHS can be particularly poor on Super Dream Indicators, they have an earth strap between the indicator stalk and the frame, because they are on rubber mounts... but the wire only bridges the rubber. Rest of earth path is through the bracketry..... rust LOVES bracketry, and when bits get painted, it replaces the rust providing an insulation, and people painting brackets often cut off earth bridges that have deteriorated, if they haven't fallen off.

So, starting point..... Wip the indicator covers off, and look at the bulbs. Check they are 21W 12v, as a starting point, and clean the contacts inside, WD40, the casing, and replace.

Next, get some low amp wire, in black, for preference. Loop & tin one end, or add decent (soldered) ring terminal.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/imag1780.jpg
attach to the back of the Indicator casing mounting bolt on the back, then thread through, the stalk tube and brackets, with feed wire.... At the front, take it into the headlamp, and dog it into the main earth bonding point. at the back, you can dog it into the earth for the tail light.

While you are in there, check & clean bullets for the indicator feeds, and the main earth bonding point for the loom.

THAT eliminates a whole ruck of 'silly' questions.

Flasher relay, is a £3 part from most motorfactors. Generic 12v 2-pin flasher used on many older cars. Might as well replace it to eliminate that one.

Switch, can be stripped and contacts cleaned
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1753.jpg

The Regulator/Rectifier IS pretty robust on these, but, the connectors in the connector blocks aren't.

That would probably do with attension, & before muggering about presuming it's 'duff', I'd chop the red connector block off the harness and the reg/rect and make new with bullets.

The red wire is notorious for pulling out, or breaking, and I have had three bikes all with that wire bulleted seperate from the connector!

Ultimately may come down to the reg/rect, but, flasher, earths and connectors being firred up would be my first investigations on any bike, let alone one that's been brine baked for umpety years!

Best of luck.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 20 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL

It's fine! Brine preserves stuff anyway Very Happy

Besides its Mull cheddar not swiss cheese!

There has not been any paint chucked on it, it's just not very photogenic until I cleaned it up.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 15:43 - 20 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

heehaw wrote:
There has not been any paint chucked on it, it's just not very photogenic until I cleaned it up.

Red frame, Red Cheese Swing Arm, Red Footrest Hangers, Painted fork sliders, painted top yoke cover, and I'm not sure if it was originally silver & the original decals just masked of before painting red, or of a set of decals for a silver bike have been added....
That bike has been painted.... it did not leave the factory THAT red!
Hence check the connections, especially the main earth from the battery to engine mount.
Original TD-C in Silver:-
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/E%20Bay%20Adds/CFsPiYgmkKGrHqQOKnUE1OOdY9lBBNV-IjfNZg_12.jpg
That's Nemo's bike
Original TD-C in Red:-
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/E%20Bay%20Adds/KGrHqRjgE1uwFdlo7BNho72tnV_12.jpg
Clue is that the inset in the side panel isn't mat black..... like you cant tell from the over enthusiasm for red everywhere else!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 21 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

they have done a grand job of it then, the entire frame has been done that red and its a great finish on it.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208564_1639618515638_1392037848_1808652_2270756_n.jpg

I prefer this one, less barn in the background.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 21 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seeing as its pre 1986, you can take the indis off prior to the mot. Will pass without them.
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 21 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the Mod 1 and 2 I'm on about, if my indicators were too fast would they have issues?
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 01:29 - 22 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

heehaw wrote:
It's the Mod 1 and 2 I'm on about, if my indicators were too fast would they have issues?

You're machine should be 'fit for purpose' when you present for test.
Hence indicators should flash at between one and two blinks per second....
would the examiner notice?
would he deem it grounds to 'terminate' your test?
Depends entirely on whether it happens, whether they notice and what else they are worried about.
But it still needs fixing regardless......
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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heehaw
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PostPosted: 01:41 - 22 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never was a truer word spoken
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