Oh hay its somthing about an aprilia 50 :O

[andyboy359]

Hey everyone
I posting this just to try and work out some stuff I guess :S
1st. My aprilia has a starting problem my m8 said it because i have some shit 2 stroke in it. Im going to get new top quitly stuff tomorow XD. But could it be anything ells?? It will start some times but most the time I have to bump which I hate :@

2nd. I have to run with the choke on which again I think it because of my 2 stroke :/ it was sent to a bike shop and they said they cleaned out the carb but it will need to run with the choke on (I didn`t have to run with choke before i sent it there -.-)

3rd. The bike use to go 55mph but then the trottle cable broke (then it was sent to the bike shop that said i had to run with the choke on) when I got it back I went for a ride and then my chain broke -.- but I knew that was coming and the next day the new cahin and sprockets I ordered got to me (the sprockets are the same size as the old ones) so you can see why I dont understand how it has lost 10mph!

Any help will be nice thanks guys xD
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andrew dunne

[clancy]

i think the garage your using is crap if there telling you to drive with the choke on, you shouldn't have to.
as for 2 stroke, i wouldn't waste money on expensive oil to be honest mate. i ran a 2 stroke for a year on £2.99 stuff from Morrisons and it was fine.

it sounds like your carb needs adjusting to sort your fueling issue out so you dont need to run with the choke on.


as for bumping thats pretty normal, get used to it or buy another bike
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KLX 300r

[stirlinggaz]

while i agree with the above, about riding with the choke on, i have to say these engines really need the best 2t you can afford, preferably fully synthetic.
using cheap mineral chain saw stuff, wont make it slower but will make it more prone to problems.
if i was buying another 2t (i've already got 4) & i found 2.99 2t in it, i'd walk away. tells you everything about how the owner treats it.
the hard starting could be your battery, get a multi-meter on it.
however its more likely to be either the carb needs set up PROPERLY, or its starting to get down on compression.
test it.
go through the basics : fresh fuel? new spark plug? fully charged battery? getting a good spark? carb set up properly? compression?
cheers,
GAZ

[Nope.]

[c_dug]

In fairness if it was mine I wouldn't be going for the highest grade stuff, though not any £2.99 crap either.

Grab some Halford's own brand semi-synthetic or something, I ran my TDR250 on Hein Gericke semi synth 2 stroke oil and never had an issue and I would bet that was in a higher state of tune as standard that a 50cc moped, spending top money on fully synthetic oil on a moped is a waste of money, it really doesn't need it.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[bikersupermot...]

[c_dug]

In my defence:

TS50x = Crash write off (non fault)
TDR250 = Caught alight in the garage, never ran right again. (partial fault)
GPZ500S = Electrical issues
NTV600 = Ok, I will admit that was from running out of oil, twice, but I was doing 90 miles a day for 7 months, and it technically still runs and rides, just makes lots of bad noises.
ZZR600 = Crash write off (non fault)

The cbr is still going strong and I have done over 8,000 miles since November.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[bikersupermot...]

@ c_dug ...

okies your off the hook just ... lol ... but let the fella use the best oil he can afford to ...

i dont feed my pets the cheapest pet food i can find ... " just coz they will still eat it" - i buy them the best i can afford to - coz i care for them - and it makes me feel good ... an if thats wasting money - well what else wud i do with it?
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tinybikes

[demon9374]

[stirlinggaz]

tbh, aprilia recommend fully synthetic in the rs50 (think its a minareli or sommit) & is designed to be revved highly. these bikes are best "ridden like you stole it" at 9000rpm+, pretty gutlress below 5k....just like the rotax lump in the rs125. the rs50 is no moped.
difference in price for semi to fully synthectic, about 2 or 3 quid a litre? i'll stick to tts or similar. never had a problem. low carbon deposits & i've rarely had any type of seizure. so i'll stick to fully synthetic.
saying that, my 1986 rg125 gamma manual says it should run on fully synth, but i'vre used semi, following recomendations from a few guys that used to race them....
as for my 4 strokes, the r30 gets cheap mineral, it likes it.
i just think 2t's will thank you for giving them the best you can afford. if you cant afford fully synth, then you shouldnt run a 2t, thats designed to use it, imo.
there not exactly cheap to run anyway.
cheers,
GAZ

[andyboy359]

Right im gona get some new 2 stroke my m8s have an NSR125 and DT125 and they use the same 2t so im gona get what they use and if that dosen`t fix the choke and starting il get a new spark plug then recharge my battery but i all ways getting about 10-15v on it then il send it to a 2t specialists garage not one that says "we not gona service it, because we dont like aprilias" -.- load of shit.
Thanks guys
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andrew dunne

[stirlinggaz]

[andyboy359]

So testing the compression and setting the crab. Umm help Il go get my hanyes manual but I don`t wanna do anything that could make my bike not want to work half terms coming and the weathers getting good so il read what to do and start after next week gives me time to get money for parts il need or if i do F up and need to send it away

Would changing my chain not do anything different?? because I had my old chain and could fit a 14tooth front sprocket on easy when the wheel was at the back ha

(I wasnt running it on the 14 tooth and getting 55mph. I was getting 55mph when on my old 12t which broke then lead me to get a 14t to see if i could get a little fast)

I can no longer get the 14t on with the new chain... But tbh i don`t cear about the speed il just kill my self haha

I just wanna stop using fuel like a mother fucker with the choke open

Thanks again guys
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andrew dunne

[andyboy359]

Right heres an updata

Was on the bike to night getting dinner I got the food then trun around to go home, I turned my choke from about 6/8(open(this is wat I turn it to after about 15mins of it being open fully)) to off. This is what happened, after driving a little i let go of the throttle then went to open her up again and opened it, it took about 1.5 seconds before it accelerated.

It has done this for sometime :S is it the spark? I think it is but not 110% so thought i would tell you guys.

Andrew
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andrew dunne

[Gazdaman]

I'd be testing compression first. This is a highly strung 2 stroke 50cc sports bike rep. Possibly the worst maintained category of bike bar none.

To test compression you need a compression tester, it's a machine that screws in the spark plug hole. Which is useful because it means you can check your spark plug too.

So get a tester, pull the spark plug out and look at the colour of it. If it's white and blistered, the engine's running lean. If it's black and oily, it's running rich. Ideally it should be a smooth chocolate brown colour.

Screw the compression tester in, then spin the bike over on the starter (obviously it won't start), then see what reading you have on the tester. I've no idea what it should be, but I'm sure a Haynes manual or Google can help.

If your compression is fine, then I'd start looking at the setup of the carb.

Just so you know, you should only need choke for about the first minute or two of the bike running. After that, it should run without any choke whatsoever. Having to run it with the choke on is crappy advice from the garage, and it means that something is wrong.

The choke 'chokes' the air, meaning you get more fuel in the mix essentially makes the mixture richer. If it runs ok with the choke on, it could mean your mixture is lean i.e too much air, not enough fuel. Which would mean you need to adjust the carb settings. This could be confirmed if your spark plug looks white and blistered (too lean = too hot). The trouble is if it's run too hot over a period of time it can burn a hole in the top of your piston losing compression making it run like a bag of shit.

Gaz

[andyboy359]

Ok :O was putting some gum-gum type and some clips on the exhaust to over a hole where the can connects to the rest of the exhaust,and looked at my spark plug went to take the top off and the spark plug moved.... It hadnt been put in properly could this be the problem?? I took it off gave it a clean it was a brown colour like you said then put it back in so it didn`t move.

I think drained my 2 stroke cus I got the tesco 2 stroke clean out the 2 stroke tank and it is now drying

Will put it all back together tomorrow and see how it goes could my problems of been because of my loses spark plug??

Thanks guys
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andrew dunne

[stirlinggaz]

maybe.... hole in exhaust wouldnt have helped either.
remember & bleed the 2t through!
cheers,
GAZ

[wilksieee]

Don't worry about running decent 2 stroke...of course it helps & if you have the money then do it!

But it won't have any bad effects & plus the amount of money you spend on decent 2 stroke (£15 - £20). you put that money towards a new top end and just buy cheap 2 stroke (£3- £10) which will work just as well...its only a 50cc...i have a 80 kit and my bike runs like a dream off carlube, £3 a litre.
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Wheelie Wilks
Yes officer, these 50's are pretty nippy nowa' days!

[wilksieee]

have a look at your jetting...slightly bigger jet maybe?
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Wheelie Wilks
Yes officer, these 50's are pretty nippy nowa' days!

[Nope.]

[andyboy359]

Right get the new 2 stroke in and covered the hole wasnt as long XD and also talked to a guy that works in a place that is mainly for 2t engines and he said the choke will have something to do with my carb, "main jet" or jet hoses i think :S dont remember 110%.

But none of this explains why I have lost 10mph maybe when it was at flashmans he put the crab back on wrong?? and thats made it go wrong haha

Thank you guys
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andrew dunne

[c_dug]

Sounds like they changed something in the carb or airbox either as a quick fix or to disguise another problem. You were unfortunate in not knowing any better when they told you it needed to be run on choke from now on. The fact that it needs to be run on choke suggests that there is an issue with the mixture, which means there is either a problem with the fuel intake, the air intake, or the ratio of them to each other.

Working on a carb is relatively simple, but there are a few small bits that can go in the wrong way (float valve assembly) and easily rounded screws (Most of them as they are made of brass). I would recommend taking the carb apart and seeing what isn't set to standard. Just take your time and think about what you are doing before you do it each step of the way, you don't need to make the problem worse! 17 year old c_dug broke plenty of stuff on his bike by rushing into things and not thinking, I know what it's like!

Perhaps check the simple things first like air filter and air box before diving into the carb.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[c_dug]

One more point, if you have a different air filter and/or exhaust then the jets probably shouldn't be set to standard, if that is the case you will need to find the recommended settings for your combo and then make sure everything is right.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Paulington]

Hey,

This does sound odd, and to me there are only a few things it can boil down to:

1) A fuelling issue where not enough fuel is getting in, which implicates the carburettor/fuel pump/tank.

2) A fuelling issue where there is too much two-stroke oil entering the fuel via. the oil pump. Obviously implicating the oil pump.

3) Miscellaneous things, but limited to the air filter/reeds etc.

Before I go into my plan of attack, I cannot stress this enough:

Your motorcycle is a tuned two-stroke single cylinder engine with VERY tight tolerances. It NEEDS the BEST two-stroke oil you can possibly afford, I'd recommend Silkolene or Castrol.

Also, if you have modified anything on your bike, such as your exhaust etc then you will have to allow for this in different fuelling.

Personally? My plan of attack would consist of:

First:

Check the air filter is fine, check the throttle cable has no slack and is fitted correctly as the original one (before the problem emerged) was, make sure it isn't too long/too short causing the needle position in the carburettor to have changed at all.

Whilst doing that take the carburettor off to prepare for the next step, when doing so make sure the reeds in the reed block (look inside where you took the carburettor off) are fine, not snapped or malformed in any way and that they sit snug on the reed block.

Second:

I am not sure if this is true on the 50cc 2T Aprilias, but my old two strokes were always ran by a vacuum pipe from the crank case to the fuel pump. If that has a split/any type of fail in it, it will mean the fuel pump does not pump enough fuel so requires the choke to allow in what is there.

Clean out the carburettor completely, that means disassembling it, cleaning it out and if possible replacing the jets/gaskets etc. Making sure the needle moves freely and that the idle screw is set to the manufacturer's specification and that the idle jet has not been altered, same with the choke etc.

Also, check the fuel pump is functioning correctly, you should be able to see if it's not pumping enough fuel by taking the fuel line off the carburettor and seeing how much it pumps or by seeing how fast it fills up the carburettor float bowls.

Finally, make sure there is no sediment/general crap in the bottom of your tank/in the fuel lines.

If that doesn't solve it...

Third:

Check the oil pump, make sure there is no sediment/crap in the pipes as normal.

To do this, PERSONALLY I'd bypass the oil reservoir/pump/lines completely and put premix fuel in the tank. That means you mix the oil/petrol in an exterior container (IN THE RIGHT RATIO, MAKE SURE YOU LOOK IT UP AND ARE 200% IT IS CORRECT) then put it in the fuel tank. If that fixes the problem, you know it is an oil delivery system issue.

If that doesn't fix it, take it to a garage!

I hope that helps, I may very well be wrong though! !
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"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
Current Vehicles: '89 Kawasaki KDX200, '99 Yamaha XV535, '00 Honda ST1100 Pan-European, '08 Suzuki GSX-R1000, '08 Mitsubishi Lancer GS4 2.0 TDCi, '15 BMW 1 Series 116d Sport Turbo.
CBT: 27/08/08. Theory: 04/09/09. Module 1: 16/09/09. Module 2: 01/10/09.

[andyboy359]

Right iv got my carb out with me atm and the main jet wasnr screewed right in.. is this good or bad thing?? :S
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andrew dunne