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Replace radiator? And dropping into neutral

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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Replace radiator? And dropping into neutral Reply with quote

I need to get myself a daily pass Laughing

Ok, 2 problems this time.

It seems like my radiator is leaking and may have to replace it. It does look a bit battered a bruised tbh. At first I thought it may have been an oil leak but my garage floor and anywhere I park disagrees, and so do my jeans and boots!

So.. I can imagine replacing the radiator is not exactly a hard job. Drain coolant, take old radiator of, put new(used) one on, fill with coolant, carefully?

Never changed coolant on my bikes as they haven't lasted long enough Laughing

I'm pretty sure the radiator from my old hornet is fine as my old hornet never had leaking/overheating problems... And when I pole vaulted it landed on the crashbung and ruined the engine rather than touching anything else!

So... What to do? Hornet 6 '99 Razz

And neutral problem.... It seems to be slipping into neutral from 1st or 2nd quite easily/often.. It's overdue an oil service so I can imagine that will help but doubt that would be the main problem! I've got the service parts ready to go on.

Problem is... I'll happily be in first and ride to 60 and back down... Then I'll go around 20-30 and go to pop a wheelie... but when slipping the clutch it goes into neutral? It did this a few times today Neutral I Done it from 2nd aswell, though I blame those more on my gearchaning! (goes in, but a second later pops out?) Maybe clutch frictionplates/springs are out? Neutral

Any info would be appreciated. C&S are new and fine. Been cleaned and lubed 3 times in 400 miles! Properly adjusted too Smile

Any info would be great, ta. Hornet 6 '99

Edit: forgot pics of the radiator leakage...

You can see streaks in places...

https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/251771_10150191993286615_509016614_7399583_4637368_n.jpg
https://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/251783_10150191993621615_509016614_7399590_5436583_n.jpg
https://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/253933_10150191993876615_509016614_7399597_591251_n.jpg
https://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249578_10150191994051615_509016614_7399601_3352932_n.jpg


That's when I noticed lack of "bolt" Rolling Eyes Something I'm getting used to on this bike Laughing

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/254078_10150191994221615_509016614_7399604_2644248_n.jpg
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**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 02 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone...? Neutral
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'99 Hornet 600 Sad, VFR 400 NC30 '92 Neutral, Kasawamasaki GT 550 Crying or Very sad, '98 Hornet 600 Mr. Green
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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Carvel
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 02 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking

Just an idea but If k-seal can be used in bikes then i'd be tempted to run some of that through it. My sisters heater matrix in her 306 gave up and was pissing water out, shoved some k-seal through it and it never gave any more trouble. It's good stuff.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/K-Seal-Permanent-Coolant-Leak-Repair-/180673746671?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a10fe96ef#ht_548wt_1138

Might be a stupid idea, could be a cheap fix though.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 02 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you cleaned and/or greased the gear linkage to help with your gear selection issues?

It would be odd to have first and second drop at the same time (Although second can fail on bikes they are wheelied a lot.)

With the changing the rad, yes it is pretty much that simple, just make sure you refil the cooling system using the cap on the top right of the rad(squeezing the pipes as you go), then fill the expansion chamber last as the system's pressurised.
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 02 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ta for that carvel... Could do it.. But I do have a spare radiator anyways which I know has no leaks so wouldn't cost me money... jut time in fitting it myself... Asking mroe about the filling up/whatever.

I assume it isn't just empty, put new ra don, and fill up?

And I actually haven't greased up the gear linkage...

TBH, 2nd is more than likely more my shoddy gear changes when going fast.. Well trying to and failing Laughing

It's just in first where it drops into neutral when I slip it Neutral


Expansion chamber is the bottle underneath the seat right?

I remember someone mentioning about running it to get ride of air...? Pressurised?
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'99 Hornet 600 Sad, VFR 400 NC30 '92 Neutral, Kasawamasaki GT 550 Crying or Very sad, '98 Hornet 600 Mr. Green
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 02 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

m0l0t0v wrote:


Expansion chamber is the bottle underneath the seat right?

I remember someone mentioning about running it to get ride of air...? Pressurised?


Indeed it is.

Pressurised system, that's why you here the rush of air and you've had water pissing out if you opened the rad cap when it was hot. As the water heats up and expands, it pressurises the cooling system. Water under pressure has a higher boiling temp.

The expansion chamber/tank is not under pressure and thus won't fizz out if you open the lid when it's hot. It's only really there for excess coolant to go to under hot running conditions. That's why you always check the level when cold, as it can flucuate a bit when the bike's hot.

You can run it a bit to get rid of airlocks yes, but I've always found slow filling and pipe squeezing enough to do the job, just keep an eye on your coolant level for the next few rides.

O, and provided you fill the system using the cap on the rad, it really is just a case of filling the system back up after changing the rad. IIRC the rad cap is the highest point of the hornet cooling system (expansion tank/chamber excluded).

If it were me I'd just replace, fill the cooling system up using the rad filling hole, then fill the expansion tank/chamber up to the upper level and go out for a ride and re-check level when I got back.

And grease your gear linkage, they have a habit of getting covered in muck giving poor shifts.
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the radiator, when filling it, I wouldn't worry to much.

I've done it a few times now and have no problems on the Fazer. The stuff that came out was so black and thick I thought it was oil Laughing

Just as I'm sure has been said, fill it slowly, squeezing the pipes as you go. You will feel them fill with water as at first they will be soft and will get progressively stiffer. I can't say that without it sounding dodgy Laughing

Ham has described it well. So another vote to just fill via the radiator cap, until its full. Then fill the coolant resovior to the max mark.

With regards to the neutral issue, you'd be surprised how sensitive the older Hondas are to oil. A friend had exactly the same problem you describe and an oil change solved the problem so do that first Thumbs Up

HTH
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.


Last edited by 0l0dom0l0 on 16:05 - 03 Jun 2011; edited 1 time in total
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

0l0dom0l0 wrote:
With the radiator, when filling it, I wouldn't worry to much.

I've done it a few times now and have no problems on the Fazer. The stuff that came out was so black and thick I thought it was oil Laughing

Just as I'm sure has been said, fill it slowly, squeezing the pipes as you go. You will feel them fill with water as at first they will be soft and will get progressively stiffer. I can't say that without it sounding dodgy Laughing

Garth has described it well. So another vote to just fill via the radiator cap, until its full. Then fill the coolant resovior to the max mark.

With regards to the neutral issue, you'd be surprised how sensitive the older Hondas are to oil. A friend had exactly the same problem you describe and an oil change solved the problem so do that first Thumbs Up

HTH


You mean Ham right? Laughing

Ta guys, willget on it on Monday. Got stuff to do unfortunately Sad
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'99 Hornet 600 Sad, VFR 400 NC30 '92 Neutral, Kasawamasaki GT 550 Crying or Very sad, '98 Hornet 600 Mr. Green
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

m0l0t0v wrote:
You mean Ham right? Laughing

Ta guys, willget on it on Monday. Got stuff to do unfortunately Sad


Yeah Very Happy. They have simular profile pictures Embarassed
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Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will be a bleed screw near the water pump, fill it up open the bleed screw then run the bike till a constant flow comes out.
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 03 Jun 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming that the Hornet is fairly similar to my old CBR6 then it’s all fairly easy. I found the biggest pain was how much I had to strip down to get the radiator off in the first place. On the CBR it’s a case of removing all fairings, tank and airbox just to get to the rad. I also needed to remove the expansion tank to rinse oil out of it and that meant removing rear wheel, hugger and shock. You may get away with a lot less hassle on the Hornet.

You may find that the “missing” bolt is just a pin that slots into a rubber eyelet on the rad. The bolt is only on one side. I guess to allow the rad to expand and contract. That’s how it is on the CBR anyway.

The CBR has two main drain plugs for the coolant. One at the base of the water pump and one at the base of the oil cooler jacket behind the downpipes. Once you’ve caught all the old coolant it does no harm to run fresh water through the system. I just stuck a hose in the rad pressure cap and let the water piss out of the drain holes. Then do up all the drain plugs and fill with appropriate coolant as Ham said above.
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