Scotland, May 2011 - trip writeup

[Maruchino]

Planning for this trip was left to one of the three, which wasn't me. As a result I left everything until the last minute. For a short trip like this, staying inside the UK it doesn't really make much difference. The biggest problem I had was that my regulator / rectifier had fried 9 days before departure. After sorting a replacement (on order) and borrowing (thanks fellow forum member on 675.cc!) I was ready to roll.

5 days, 3 riders, mix of bikes; Harley Davidson/Kawasaki ZX6R/Triumph Daytona 675 (me), 1550 miles in total.


Day 1 - Thursday 5th May 2011
Before heading to Scotland I had to meet the other two at a town just outside Blackpool. I gave myself all day to cover the 210 miles from Dunstable (home) to Lytham St Annes. I took the scenic route up through the Peak District. Having never driven or ridden through it was a nice ride. Lots of frustrated car drivers stuck behind lorries but no such problems for me. Having been soaked by a couple of sudden downpours just south of Manchester I decided to stop and dry off at a Premier Inn for the night. They ain't cheap but I like what Lenny has done with the place as everything was clean and fresh - plenty of room to hang out the sodden clothes and wake up refreshed for a long day in the saddle on Friday.


Day 2 - Friday - Destination: Fort Augustus
A quick blast along the M55 to Lytham St Annes. Rain starts up again whilst eating breakfast at Wetherspoons. Whilst I'd like to think our departure was celebrated with bunting and flags, I think it was more leftovers from the royal wedding:

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0625.jpg

We used the A6 all the way to Carlisle. The plan had been to do the west coast all the way up. For some reason we ended up going across the country using the A7 to Edinburgh instead, even though we had a sat-nav leading the group! We were going to double back and shoot across to Glasgow but we had spent too long in cafes eating homemade cakes and steaming hot tea (a trend that seemed to continue for the remainder of the trip). We navigated the Edinburgh ring road and then the memory of the roads for the rest of the day isn't so good. I typically pride myself on having a great sense of direction and always knowing where I am. Over reliance on sat-nav and simply following and admiring the scenery turned my brain to mush. We ended up on the A9 and then A86 skirting the Cairngorms. The rides down the sides of Loch Laggan, Loch Lochy, etc were memorable - possibly the first time I'd wished I'd had a permanent cam mounted to the bike so that I could enshrine the memory forever on an SD card. I only took one other full blown camera shot from the Friday and that was outside a cafe (given that there are plenty more cafe shots to come I thought I'd refrain on this occasion).

Finally we got onto the A82 (a road we had been meaning to take way hours ago, but ended up on a detour to the capital) for the final stretch up to Fort Augustus. Having not been part of the planning I must admit that I had slight reservations about the place we were looking for, "Morag's Lodge". I needn't have, it was great. Up a steep hill off the main road it is in nice walking distance of the village/town centre and of Loch Ness. On arrival there were already a bank of 8 motorcycles neatly aligned at 90 degrees to the car parks edge. Given that we were in a party consisting of a cruiser, we had to have a go at the obligatory 45 degree angle parking opposite and the result was "absolutely... average".
Our bikes were caked in road crud and showing signs of a long, often wet, full days ride. This was in total contrast to the fine array of machinery parked opposite which included a gleaming Ducati without a hugger that didn't have a spot of dirt anywhere! Either they had not ridden that day or had been very lucky with the weather (or maybe they took the right route, the now fabled west coast road).

We had a dorm to ourselves. The room was clean, secure and comfortable. The view outside from the dorm window was a shed but I am getting really picky now considering it was such a friendly and inviting place that commanded just £20.50 each, including a continental breakfast buffet.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/IMAG0062.jpg
A river feeding Loch Ness from the south

Dinner was server at a pub in downtown Fort Augustus and was the prized Buckie haddock and chips washed down with some real ale. Another stop at the other watering hole of the town on the way back to the hostel, more beer and the start of the whisky consumption.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/IMAG0063.jpg
View from pub one, Loch Ness in the distance and the loch system to the south on my left.

This was my first time staying at a hostel and I was expecting to have to creep back in through the back door at 11 o'clock trying not to wake up the other residents.. I needn't have worried. The "pub quiz" was in full swing and half naked young adults were prancing around in bespoke tartan wear to a dubstep track followed by The Arctic Monkeys. The evening's entertainment was topped off by a kiwi naval officer performing a full on hacka in just his boxer shorts in the small hours of the night. More local ale consumed, we asked about the whisky and whose who drink it, did. Fully fuelled the 5 or so hours left of rest passed too quickly. Highly recommended: https://www.moragslodge.com


Day 3 - Saturday - to the highlands!
The breakfast perked us up and we drunk at least £2.50's worth of tea alone to get in the mood for a day in the highlands.

The route for the day was;

1. A82 along the banks of Loch Ness

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0632.jpg
Andy, Me, Rob. On the banks of Loch Ness

2. A87 heading towards Skye.

'Green' and hydro electric power are now synonymous with Scotland's natural beauty
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0634.jpg
This..

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0636.jpg
Is being held back by this..

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0644.jpg
Further on down the A87 stereotypical landscape now opens up more regularly..


Loch Cluanie, long/lat: (57.14629242826378, -5.0685060024261475):
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0648.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0650.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0651.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0653.jpg

3. Turning off the A87 before you hit the coast, onto the A890 which takes you through some stunning forest, then onto some really tight tracks, through tunnels that runs next to a railway line. On the way through we had a big convoy of classic trucks coming the other way and immediately it felt like we had been transported back 40 or 50 years somehow.


https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0657.jpg
Turning right onto the A890 where it meets the A896: (57.43118332103645, -5.446987152099609)

4. Onto the A832, here are some snaps whilst those two consult the maps. Even though the sky looks threatening on occasions, we didn't experience even a single drop of rain the whole day.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0659.jpg
Looking right

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0660.jpg
Looking ahead (Rob pointing in the wrong direction, we need to go right!)

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0661.jpg
Looking left

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0662.jpg
Looking behind

5. A835 all the way up to Ullapool. A great little town that seemed to be full of life. After not seeing much else for so long it was a welcomed return to civilisation

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0663.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0664.jpg
More tea and cakes please vicar!

6. A835, then a detour on a road turning left at: (57.43118332103645, -5.446987152099609)
The road itself wasn't much fun for me on the D675. It was however stunning for as far as the eye could see. Our first real signs of fire from the dry conditions we had all seen in April. Sheep had the highest priority on the roads. A royal mail van tried to contest that dominance by barrelling a sheep down the road several times before it ran off! I had let him through on his rounds, obviously knowing the roads like the back of his hands. After thanking me with a few beeps of his horn a sheep jumped down from a rock straight onto his front bumper sending the poor white fluffy thing flying and then tumbling down the road. It got up and ran off so I can only assume it was ok but it certainly made postie slow down a bit.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0666.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0668.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0669.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0671.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0674.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0675.jpg


https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0679.jpg
Fire damage

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0676.jpg
Fire damage

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0678.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0680.jpg


7. The unknown road eventually links up with the A837, then turning left onto the A894heading very much north now.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0682.jpg
A poor attempt at a shot looking backwards

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0684.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0685.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0687.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0689.jpg


A simple sign for another 'cafe' was too much to turn down, so we headed off down another unmarked road. I had assumed this place was just around the corner, wrong.. It was along a stunning little track that finally opened up into a bay at Tarbet. From the bay they run wildlife trips spotting seals, dolphins and the like. We decided to stop to refuel on tea and cakes. Here is the view from the pleasant cafe:

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/IMAG0069.jpg


https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0693.jpg
Andy outside "The Shorehouse" just about to leave

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0698.jpg
https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0697.jpg
On our way out back to the main road



8. Back on the A894 then onto the A838 up to Durness. The hostel we stayed at was clearly part of a joint operation with the hotel next door - they pretty much have the Durness market all sewn up - its a monopoly! We were happy to conform as the hostel was pleasant enough. Other guests appeared to be primarily American with the odd Englishman and continental European. The rooms were basic and less comfortable than Morag's but perfectly up to the job. The evening was spent in the company of the locals down at the pub/restaurant/social club. More fish and chips was the order of the day. It had been a long day in the saddle

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0705.jpg

View from the hostel window. On the information board it reads "Those who were travelling north can go no further and must now go east". We really had come a long way in just a couple of days.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0708.jpg

We hadn't really planned for fuel being unavailable the next day, but it was a Sunday. On the way back from the pub this ironic picture just had to be taken. £1.56.9/litre, but shut on a Sunday anyway. We would have to press on and hope my measly range would hold out.


Day 4 to follow..

[Ben_m]

Looks good mate hope you all had a good time. Reminds me of my trip last year, can't wait to go again. Looking forward to day 4.
____________________
Yamaha Fazer FZS600 2003 ¦ Peugeot 206 GTI 180BHP 2003 ¦ BMW 323i SE

[keigs]

Nice write-up. Cheers.

[Maruchino]

Day 4 - Durness to Pitlochry

What I hadn't realised on day 2 was that we had already been past Pitlochry, but this little town is off the main road and a good job too as it is a nice clean place that seems to do well without a major road ploughing through it!

A damp ride across the north coast was the order of the morning. We eventually settled on a town called Tongue that had a pleasant hotel that did us right by plying us with breakfast rolls and copious amounts of caffeine. Before getting there.. A few snaps..

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0709.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0710.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0711.jpg

The lovely hostess at the hotel was on the money that this place was going to be our best bet for fuel. In the end I was quite pleased by the Daytona's economy, but we really were in cruising mode by this point.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0712.jpg

Coming down the east coast I was told that we would see white water lapping the rocks. In actual fact, what we got was more like a pea soup

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0717.jpg

One last whiskey related point of reference for the trip was the Dalwhinnie distillery. Afterwards I found out it is the coldest inhabited place in the UK (average temp) and I'm not surprised, it was noticeably colder even though the sun was shining off and on as the following pics suggest.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0718.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0719.jpg

Pitlochry when we finally made it was more than I'd hoped for. Again, tourism money seems to keep the place lively and clean. On arrival at the "hostel", which happened to have revolving doors, a putting green and a swimming pool we were kindly advised that the picture put up on the hostels website "was taken from a peculiar angle". In actual fact the hostel was down the road and what we had ended up trying to book into was a decent hotel. The hostel itself was ok, but breakfast had to be found scavenged by other means. Last evening meal of the trip was in a Turkish restaurant in the centre. Few more beers and then one more sleep in Scotchland.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/IMAG0073.jpg
View from the entrance to the hostel

Day 5 - wet, wet, wet

The only good thing about the final day was the breakfast. I still can't get over it now. The owner (a dairy farmer specialising in ice cream) invited us in half hour before official opening time. The kitchen staff rustled us up a full on breakathon consisting of; 2 fried eggs, 4 rashers of bacon, 2 sausages, 2 slices black pudding, 2 rounds of toast, mushrooms, tomatoes, 2 pots of tea each all for just £6.50! It is easily the best value and highest quality breakfast I'll ever eat. Highly recommended eatery come petting zoo.

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0723.jpg

https://www.finestfootball.co.uk/Scotland-2011/100_0724.jpg

It rained pretty much the whole way home which motorways were the order of the day. By the time I got to the M6 Toll I could barely finger some money from my bag to pay whilst a queue of patient cars built up. My rear tyre was holding up great until the final day - it now has a great big flat spot in the middle. Not surprising given the last day was 444 miles of straight road.

1549.9 miles door to door. Many roads travelled, many will hopefully be seen again. Already planning my next trip to Scotland - what I want to see and what roads I need to try next. Quite frankly it was breathtaking - the photos really do not do it justice whatsoever. I think that's the reason you do these trips though, as if you could capture even just 10% of the impression it leaves on you in a photo, you probably wouldn't bother going!


My first Isle Of Man TT next month (watching, not competing )

[UnspeedySam]

Looks like a fantastic trip. I'm looking to do something similar at some point this summer although I haven't had time to plan it yet. Currently trying to figure out some ingenious method of fitting a passenger and camping gear on a Bros 400. Unfortunately luggage racks for the bike are hard to come by...
____________________
Riding: BMW R1150RT `02 bought mildly crashed
Fixing: Also the BMW as I get less broken bits
Gone: ZZR600 '00, TRX850 '97, RXS100 '93, JS125-6B '07, BMW R1100RS '93, Kawasaki ZX-6R-J2 '01, Honda Bros NT400 NC25 '88

[jam66]

Brilliant write up - thank you. Really inspires us all who want to be in your riding boots. I want to do it, always have done. cheers
____________________
YZF600 CAT

[CaPo]

Nice write up, I really dont take enough advantage of living on the west coast
____________________
Had: NS125R
Got: GPZ500s, '02 R6

[Maruchino]

Thanks for the feedback guys - much appreciated

With regards to doing it - you just gotta! It's easily as good if not better than the time I spent in the Pyrenee's last year. Very different, but no less dramatic.

With regards to luggage, the guy on the kwaka did it with just a tank bank, a small one at that! I was suitably over packed and will take less next time for sure.

[Devans]

I did 2 nights in Fort Agustas and 2 nights in Ullapool back in April, i know of the roads from your pictures and i agree! THEY ROCK!

Great write up man!

[kenjh]

wow ,,great story...neet pictures ..you seem to have great roads there..now I really want to go riding there ,,thanks for shareing..great..
____________________
If I don't know I ask..an' there is a lot I don't know. I am and old biker , not a bold rider there are no old bold riders ...

[Sir Black Pig]

Even those of us that live up in this blessed land still tour it.

Great job you three. Oh and BTW, GPS sucks stick to paper.


____________________
Eurotrip 2009
Sportugal 2010

[kenjh]

kinda wondering ..where is the trees ??and I didn't see a radar trap anywhere ..and sunshine.....and just a minute gonna go on your ride again...back soon...
____________________
If I don't know I ask..an' there is a lot I don't know. I am and old biker , not a bold rider there are no old bold riders ...

[Lincolnshire Jock]

Maruchino - great journel and pictures. I'm from the east coast of Scotland originally, now entrenched in Lincs.

Your post pretty much sums up weekends and holidays that I envisaged either with or without family!! All in all pretty inspiring

How did your trip to the TT go BTW?
____________________
CBT: 21 May 11 | Theory: 15 Jun 11 | MOD 1: 23 Jun 11| MOD 2: 22 Jul 11| Honda CBR600F: 19 Nov 11 | 20 years ambition - SORTED!

[Maruchino]

TT trip was great. Not wanting to exaggerate, I think it was quite possibly one of the best weeks of my life.

I lost my camera out of my pocket on a section of unrestricted road somewhere, so I am without all my pics - but I have a few on my phone that I will share in a separate thread some time.

[kenjh]

as a canadian it is hard to pronounce most of the names on the road signs.. but the roads look great ..even with riding on the other side ..I figger I need at least 2 weeks to get any good riding in ..when is the good weather happining ???you know sun..warm..no tourists...lol !!
____________________
If I don't know I ask..an' there is a lot I don't know. I am and old biker , not a bold rider there are no old bold riders ...

[LordShaftesbu...]

[Maruchino]

kenjh - unfortunately you are not guaranteed good weather in Scotland... ever! We went in May to avoid the tourists and "kids off school" effect and it worked well.. although we did get a little wet! In a two-week period in Summer you should get a good spell of good weather in there somewhere.

Doug97 - you ain't kidding.. my heart sank