Stuck crash bung bolt - now out. Exhaust stud removal?

[MarkJ]

Afternoon all, when removing my Hornet's engine I found that the LHS crash bung wouldn't undo - the bolt went through the frame, then through a spacer and finally through the engine mount with a bolt on the end. It had a 6mm allen head on it but I ended up snapping my hex bit trying to undo it so resorted to cutting the head off the bolt so I could get the engine out of the frame.

Pic of it now:
https://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/markjackson13/DSCF1281Copy.jpg

The bike had been dropped on this side so I reckon it's either bent slightly and got stuck, or corroded.

I need to get this out, but don't really have any specialist tools. What would be the best way? I've tried heating the engine mount up and hitting what's left of the bolt with a hammer but it hasn't budged (haven't been hitting it too hard though as I don't want to break the engine mount). Would welding a bolt to the end so I can turn it work? Drilling out?

Cheers

[Nope.]

Hmm, tough one.

If I were you, I would get some plus gas on both sides of the mount and leave it overnight to see if it loosens it up. Failing that I would grind/hacksaw off one side of the bolt, drill a small pilot hole and then continue moving up in drill bit sizes until you can drill it out.

Good luck!
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Current: 2011 Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré, 2003 Yamaha YZR-R1 5PW (In Build), 2009 Kawasaki ZZR1400

[MarJay]

I'd try penetrating oil, freeze and release and gentle application of heat to the alloy surrounding the steel bolt.

Failing that, I'd tack weld on a piece of threaded bar to use as a lever and get it out that way.
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[chris-red]

£10 says it will need drilling, if you weld anything to it and try twisting I reckon it will sheer. I would try a set of molegrips. But it looks to far gone imo.
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[MarJay]

[chris-red]

[delsol]

I would avoid welding a lever to the bolt and I would avoid hitting the bolt with a hammer.

Right now you only have a 'nuisance' of a problem, real grief will come if you damage the alloy engine mounting lug.

I agree with trying the plus gas\freeze\release oil options first, even if it takes a lot of time, file 2 flats onto the seized bolt to give you a better bite when using the molegrips.

Applying a little bit of heat to the alloy is OK, but again I would limit this as much as possible.

You could try this, it has often (not always) worked for me in the past: If you have one of those mini blowlamps, apply heat to both ends of the bolt (usually it would be better to heat the alloy surround - but in this case I would not), then squirt WD40 (or similar) onto the bolt. The WD40 will bubble and boil with the heat and gets drawn further into the seized area than if it were cold applied, leave a few minutes and repeat, do this several times. Now try the molegrips, if the bolt don't move then repeat the process; patience is worth everything here.

If that don't work then I would go for the drilling option.

Sorry if that's long winded.

Look forward to you letting us know how you resolve this.

Hope it goes easy.
delsol

[finpos]

Don't force it, if you snap the lug then you'll really be sorry.

If you can, arrange it so you can leave the lug and bolt soaking in a pot of penetrating fluid overnight for as long as you plan having the engine out while you get on with whatever, then file flats in the bolt and use only a normal spanner to work it out a fraction at a time. If that's not working, it's ballache drilling for you.

Edit - P.S. It's stuck in with corrosion, it's not uncommon. If there was a nut on the end of the bolt you may want to consider that the lug may not even threaded, it's just welded in there!

f.

[0l0dom0l0]

[MarkJ]

Cheers all, I don't have a welder, but the flatting it off and using mole grips is a good idea Shall give it a go tomorrow.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[MarkJ]

Got a spare CBR FV engine in the garage

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Bezzer]

[MarkJ]

Had a go today, not budging

I filed two flats onto it, spanner would eventually slip, mole grips also slipped. I heated it up and sprayed WD40 on it a fair few times which didn't help. I also screwed the nut onto the back of it and tried to pull it through the lug buy tightening the nut - didn't work. I also tried pressing it out with a long vice I have lying around in the garage with no success.

There's a garage literally at the bottom of my road that does steel welding, is it worth asking him to weld something onto it, or shall I just drill it?

[finpos]

As before, you run the risk of breaking the lug if you find novel ways of applying more force to it, so drilling would be the best option.

Still worth trying penetrating fluid, time and plenty of it. Note the difference between penetrating fluid and WD40 is that the former will actually dissolve some of the corrosion.

f.

[delsol]

MarkJ, stubborn little darling is it?

If the flats on the bolt are reasonably square to each other then good quality molegrips tightened up to the maximum should not slip.
You know when the grips are really tight when it takes all your strength and tightening the grips leaves a welt in your sore hands .

If you still have work to do on the engine then I would go with finpos 'penetrating fluid and time' suggestion.

I don't know if some of the comments here have put you off the drilling option, but it ain't such a big deal for this bolt and access for drilling is a dream compared to drilling with the engine on the bike.

Pock mark as centrally as you possibly can with a centre punch and start with a 3.5mm HSS bit, initally it will be slow and careful going (try to get a straight line) for the first through hole to be formed, after that just step up in drill bit sizes, make small step ups and the bits will sail through, the more step ups you make the easier, and you will have a nice selection of spare bits for the future

I now buy from here https://www.toolstation.com/documents/search/index.html?searchstr=silverline+drill+bits&submit=Goin , I buy the packs of ten, do the job and so cheap I hardly bother sharpening bits now.
If the drill stops cutting, just change it for a new one, that's why I like the 10 packs.
Scroll down to HSS Drill Bits then go to Silverline HSS Jobber Metric Drill Bit 10 pack..

Let us know how you progress.

delsol

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[MarkJ]

Bloody hell those bits are cheap Compared to B&Q prices anyway. There's a Toolstation store on my way home from work so might call in and get some bits and penetrating oil, cheers

[Bezzer]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[jay12329]

Have you tried freeze and release? I had issues with a corroded sprocket nut on a SV. Took a long time and lots of freeze and then heat applications.

It appeared to crack the corrosion as the metal under contracts and expands and it came off in flakes.

Or just dremel it off flat and drill, as you say its not threaded so doesn't matter if you end up making the hole a little bigger.

HTH

J

[Bezzer]

[MarkJ]

Started to drill it out now - tried too many times with the heating (no freeze spray though) and didn't want to snap the lug. Nearly got through but need some more bits as they've all rounded off so going to Toolstation tomorrow to get some more.

[stirlinggaz]

Try getting cobalt bits.
its all i use now when drilling out bolts.
a bit dearer than hss/jobber bits but most of them are crap anyway.
decent cobalt bits, slow drilling & plenty of cutting/cooling agent.
works for me every time.
cheers,
GAZ